(1851+1860) / 2 = 1855 1/2

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So, there's these two never-was-guns. One is a .44 color case hardened frame 1851 sheriff's model and the other a brass framed 1860.
The 1860 needs a strong enough frame to withstand full house loads and heavy bullets to be shot like they made for. The geometry of the 1851 won't let you load anything but round ball. And it needs to be small balls what with that short skimpy lever.

This calls for a frame swap to have an iron frame 1860. Can call the other a Model 1855 1/2 brass frame shorty forty four.
Reckon the grips will go where ever they feels the best.
 
I did simular with an 1851 brass 44 Sheriff. Being not much for brass on 44 I traded frames from an 1851 steel 36.the brass on the 36 will last forever and I'll not have to be concerned with the steel on the 44.
 
So, there's these two never-was-guns. One is a .44 color case hardened frame 1851 sheriff's model and the other a brass framed 1860.
The 1860 needs a strong enough frame to withstand full house loads and heavy bullets to be shot like they made for. The geometry of the 1851 won't let you load anything but round ball. And it needs to be small balls what with that short skimpy lever.

This calls for a frame swap to have an iron frame 1860. Can call the other a Model 1855 1/2 brass frame shorty forty four.
Reckon the grips will go where ever they feels the best.

If both revolvers are of the same manufacturer and have a date code after ~2000 (BP), any parts swaps should be very easy as they would have been produced using CNC machining. The frames of the 1851 Navy and the 1860 Army are identical with the exception of the cut water table on the Army to accomodate the .44 rebated cylinder. The load aperture on both the Navy and Army barrel lugs are practically identical. The original Tucker, Sherrard, and Company .44 revolvers had no load aperture at all. All one has to do is push the conical into the chamber by hand far enough to clear the barrel lug so as the cylinder rotates to the load lever/rammer position. I am confused as to what you wish to create. It seems you do not want a brasser 1860. Do the swap, and sell the rest as parts on Ebay if you do not wish to keep them.

Regards,

Jim
 
Hi bang, did you have to cut the water table on the .36 frame when swapping it to the .44 and if so how did you do so? I have an old Spesco .36 Navy frame I'd like to doctor up to handle a .44 cylinder and barrel. Thanks, George.
 
Mostly I shoot snubbies which are 1851 Navy frames with a .44 caliber cylinder and barrel. They are almost all Pietta because it is my opinion that Pietta are better made guns without the arbor length problem of some other makes. Any of my Uberti guns, and I do have a couple, have had the short arbor length problem corrected.
Snubbies do require a loading press because they either do not have a loading lever or in the case of the Pietta Marshal revolvers the loading lever is really for decoration. and balance
My preference is the open top Colt design because the open top Colt is easy to take down to clean or to work on and is not as internally complicated as the Remington..
For what it is worth
Respectfully
Bunk
 
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