1851 colt navy arms

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JNG

32 Cal.
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I just bought a 1851 colt by navy arms. I pulled it a part and cleaned it. I got it back togather, but I can not get the pin back in. The gun was used, but shot very little. I have 451 balls with 3f powder. I was thinking of shooting it with 25 grains of powder. And it is a brass frame. Now if one of you would be kind enough to guide me through putting it back togather, I would be very greatfull.

Joe
 
Is it the wedge that secures the barrel to the frame you are referring to? If so you will notice that the wedge has or should have a flat spring set in a groove in the wedge. It is there to help keep the wedge in place despite recoil. You will also notice a screw in the barrel above the slot where the wedge goes. Often the wedge spring has a hard time getting past the screw. Back the screw out a little and try putting the wedge in again. Also be sure that the barrel is fully seated against the frame. If it isn't that will make it hard to get the wedge in too. Good luck

Don
 
The next time you take it apart don't take the wedge all the way out. The screw is supposed to catch on the lip of the spring and keep it from coming out. Also don't drive the wedge too far in or the cylinder will bind. Just get it flush on the opposite side from the screw. If the .451 balls don't shave lead when you load them you may want to try .454's
 
I got it back togather, I did not understand the position of the screw next to the wedge. I shot the gun Sunday using 25 grains of fff and 2 wads. The only problem I had is the caps would split a few time and I had to pull the off before the cylinder would spin.
Thanks for the advise.

Joe
 
How the wedge works in my Colts:

I have 6 Colt revolvers that have the barrel wedge "feature": a Uberti 2nd Model Dragoon, a Colt Signature 3rd Model Dragoon, a Pietta 1851 Navy, a Pietta 1860 Army, a Uberti 1861 Navy and a Uberti 1862 Pocket Police. All work the same way.

The barrel assembly has a screw on the (gun's) left side, placed in such a way that the head of the screw contacts the wedge spring's upper surface when the wedge is in the barrel slot.

When the wedge is driven through the barrel assembly, that is, inserted left to right as seen from the back of the gun, the screw head depresses the spring so that the lip of the spring is lowered and does not interfere or contact the barrel assembly.

With the wedge fully inserted the spring is still depressed such that the lip on the spring is below the outer mold line of the wedge and thus fully within the channel in the wedge. It does not protrude above the wedge and cannot contact the barrel assembly or interfere with removing the wedge.

When the wedge is driven back out of the slot (removed), the screw head allows the spring to return to it's undeflected position as the wedge moves right to left. In the fully restored (undeflected or relaxed) position, the lip on the spring contacts the back side of the screw head and prevents the wedge from being fully removed from the barrel assembly. I believe this is the intended purpose of the spring, the spring lip and the screw.

This is a best a rudimentary design. Some degree of precision is required of parts that are subject to damage and wear, so it is to be expected that it would not work all the time. The spring can become worn or bent and loose restoring force, dirt can become lodged under the spring preventing it from being fully depressed, the lip can be worn down, the screw head can become nicked or bent, all of which will affect the design performance.

All of mine still work, but many people have difficulty with the wedge and wedge spring. It's not the best "feature" on the Civil War era Colts.
 
Colt's are bad about splitting caps and dropping them into the action. When you cock it either raise the muzzle up or roll it over sideways(or both). That will help keep caps out of the action. If it does lock up do not try to cock it by force. The hand isn't very strong.
 
As you can tell, I'm new with cap and ball guns. How many times should you be able to shoot the gun before it is hard to cock? By the 18th round, mine needed cleaning.
Again, thank you for your time. You guys sure know your stuff.

Joe
 
Three cylinders before fouling bound it up is not too bad. I imagine you are not using lubed overpowder wads or lube/grease over the ball. Either will help keep the fouling down longer.

I personally prefer lubed overpowder wads. There are recipes on this and other forums for making your own (significantly cheaper) or you can buy them already lubed.
 
The Colt cylinder pin is about the same size as the chambers with grooves in it. before you reassemble it coat it up good with a vegetable based lube like bore butter. It will help. For continuous use get a spray bottle of balistol and when it starts binding give it a squirt or two. Just keep petroleum based oils out of it. Spraying the action out with WD-40 or Remoil, etc is ok for removing water after cleaning in my book(some will argue that point) but keep it out of chambers and barrel or you get a crusty mess that's hard to remove.
 
I'll second the over powder prelubed felt wads - I use them with Pyrodex P and never have binding. I can shoot all day as fast as I can load (not very fast :wink: )
 
Yeah, I agree with lubing the cylinder pin. I do that too, just forgot to mention it. Good catch.
 
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