1858 Remington Pietta Target

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slammnsammy77

32 Cal.
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First outing was a mess with fouling and rookie mistakes. Used # 11 percussion caps , too much grease. It took 4 hours to shoot 24 rounds.

Second outing went great. Pre rolled fifty 28 grain Pyrodex paper cartridges . Made 75 bore butter , Crisco , bee's wax 1/8" thick 45 cal disk for lube. I first loaded paper cartridge, wax disk, then pressed the .451 ball . I used Remington # 10 percussion caps.
I shot 68 rounds today with one misfire and it was because the cap was not pressed on and it fell off. I did have one nipple plug up with paper but I caught it in between loading . I did not use butter on top of my lead and had no chain fire . Kept the cylinder clean and the grease behind the ball kept the rifling working to the last shot.
I had three young men shoot the last 6 shots to see who was the best shot. One shot 3 shots , the second shot two , and the third man shot 1 shot and nailed the letter A on the target as he called it.
So three strangers picked this gun up and nailed what they called out proving that the grease behind the ball keeps the gun shooting true even after 68 shots .
I really like this gun to say the least.
Cabelas had this gun on sale for $229.00 for Christmas , great buy great gun.
 
I'd say you figured out the routine pretty quick! The only think I might point out is that .451 balls are a bit undersized for most Piettas (all of mine use the .454 and my ASP's use .457's)
 
Do the large bore balls shoot more accurate ? These press hard and cut a lead ring going in the cylinder . need to read some more it looks like .
 
Accuracy is important but the fact that the balls leave a small ring of lead insures they're sealing the bore of the chamber and helping prevent 'chain fire'...seldom fatal but a very high 'pucker factor'! Have lived through several and it's always a point of anticipation to open your eyes and see if you still have a hand! :wink: :haha: The effect may be a matter of recoil impact of the cylinder against the recoil shield or ignition flash getting by a cap, there's some disagreement about the actual cause, but it's still rather exciting! :rotf:
 
Wes/Tex said:
Accuracy is important but the fact that the balls leave a small ring of lead insures they're sealing the bore of the chamber and helping prevent 'chain fire'...seldom fatal but a very high 'pucker factor'! Have lived through several and it's always a point of anticipation to open your eyes and see if you still have a hand! :wink: :haha: The effect may be a matter of recoil impact of the cylinder against the recoil shield or ignition flash getting by a cap, there's some disagreement about the actual cause, but it's still rather exciting! :rotf:
Guess that is why Wes/Tex is also known by his friends as "Stumpy"! :haha:
 
Just shot my new buffalo Pietta .44 and .451 did leave the smallest of lead rings ! Was happy as out of .454 and now i don't need to get em! Cold windy rushed and not the best day to shoot but its gonna be a shooter. 60 yds at a tree stump and a 6" group. 15 yds son had 3 touching off hand. Will take it out on a better day and see what I can do off a bench.
 
slammnsammy77 said:
Do the large bore balls shoot more accurate ? These press hard and cut a lead ring going in the cylinder . need to read some more it looks like .

Larger balls have more accuracy potential, and you can drive them a little faster, too, as needed.


When you seat the ball, a small ring of lead shaves off, creating a small flat spot. Once fired, the ball is propelled thru the tapered forcing cone, which reduces the ball diameter a little more, and also widens the flat spot a little more. The flat spot on a ball is known as the engagement band, and the wider the flat spot engaging the rifling while traveling down the barrel, the more stable the ball as it exits the muzzle.

With more lead engaging the rifling, the better the seal against the possibility of gas forcing past the ball and upsetting it as it exits the bore.

OTOH, too large of a ball will be more difficult to seat, and places excessive strain on the loading lever handle and pivot screw.
 
Sammy, ideally you should stuff the largest ball you can cram down your Remmie's craw without breaking the loading lever.(some may argue against this but it works well for me!) You will end up with a rather football shaped projectile that bears a remarkable resemblance to a conical bullet and will completely fill the lands and grooves, avoiding stripping and maintaining higher velocities while avoiding chainfire potential, and coincidentally, in my experience, seem to be more accurate grouping. Try some and see.
 
I am of the opinion that your lead should cut a good solid ring without any breaks, but you shouldn't be using a ball that is so large it stresses the lever. After a couple hundred of them extra large balls that lever will snap. Ask me how I know. :wink:
Now if you are using a loading stand that is of good solid construction, you can use them extra oversized balls without fear of ruining your property.
 
Cynthialee said:
you shouldn't be using a ball that is so large it stresses the lever. After a couple hundred of them extra large balls that lever will snap. Ask me how I know.
Been there, done that, cussed like a sailor...good to know I got company! :wink: :rotf:
 
I ordered a Lee .457 double ball mold with handles .
Thanks for the advice folks , I have 100 .451 balls left to shoot so I will cast some .457 balls soon . I will start with the cheap press first then see how it holds up with minor repairs .
 
Pure lead is generally soft enough that the cylinder will shave a nice, fat ring and stuff the rest like a sausage. Most of the guys breaking loading levers are using balls cast from lead of questionable purity. Using a loading stand helps immensely, BTW.
Ideally, the ball should be .003-.004 larger than your largest cylinder chamber mics out. That will usually shave a nice ring unless the chamber mouths have been chamfered.
 
So... I may be able to shoot .457 in my Pietta AND my ROA? That would be very nice. The .451 shaves just a smidgen, only a few where whole rings. Think a .457 is doable (without having to join the broken lever cussin crowd?)
 
Rather than speculate, measure your cylinder chambers. Choose the ball size (.454 or .457) that is .003-.004 larger than your largest chamber; e.g if your chambers mic at .450 you would be better suited with .454 balls but if as on my ASP's one or more mic out at .452-.453 then .457 would be the better choice. For the record, I own four Pietta Remmies and they seem to do better with the .454.
 

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