1860 Army Pietta Trigger
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Nothing to change out, first tighten the trigger and cylinder lock bolt screw (1 screw) and if that doesn't do it, slightly bend the trigger side of the trigger and cylinder lock bolt spring until it pulls where you want it to.
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A couple of questions please, is there any trigger creep or movement to release the hammer?
Can the hammer be jarred off full cock if the pistol is bumped hard with the heel of your hand against the grip or side of the frame?
I ask because my 60 Pietta required a new trigger to get the pull weight and creep free action I sought. I made mine of 0-1 tool steel and it has been reliable. Before being forced to make the new one I refit the original trigger and case hardened it several times with Kas-nite but alas it would not hold the sear nose with the hammer full cock notch.
Might want to break the gun down and check out any problem with full hammer engagement and condition of both surfaces. Some times a burr or foreign matter can inhibit full engagement.
If surfaces are correctly shaped and steel is properly hardened one can get these down to a bit over a pound pull weight with total reliability.
Once you check engagement and address any problems and have lubed the gun properly, now is the time to adjust trigger return spring adjustment. MD
Can the hammer be jarred off full cock if the pistol is bumped hard with the heel of your hand against the grip or side of the frame?
I ask because my 60 Pietta required a new trigger to get the pull weight and creep free action I sought. I made mine of 0-1 tool steel and it has been reliable. Before being forced to make the new one I refit the original trigger and case hardened it several times with Kas-nite but alas it would not hold the sear nose with the hammer full cock notch.
Might want to break the gun down and check out any problem with full hammer engagement and condition of both surfaces. Some times a burr or foreign matter can inhibit full engagement.
If surfaces are correctly shaped and steel is properly hardened one can get these down to a bit over a pound pull weight with total reliability.
Once you check engagement and address any problems and have lubed the gun properly, now is the time to adjust trigger return spring adjustment. MD
Trigger or associated parts are not loose, no play anywhere. I broke the gun completely down. Didn't see any obvious problems with the trigger or hammer. Cleaned up the trigger and hammer a little with a file. Bent the spring a little and reassembled. Trigger pull is still very light. Guess I just need new parts.
Just how light is the trigger pull on your pistol?
I know it is subjective but I'm betting the trigger pull on my Colt reproductions is in the 1 to 2 1/2 pound range.
It's far lighter than many of the modern pistols which are double action and comparable with a single action Ruger.
If your pistols trigger pull is in the 1 pound range, I'd suggest you just learn to live with it.
If the pull is in the 1-4 ounce range where just a light nudge will fire the gun I'd guess the full cock notch on the hammer has been frinkled with and should be fixed by a good gunsmith or by buying a replacement hammer.
I know it is subjective but I'm betting the trigger pull on my Colt reproductions is in the 1 to 2 1/2 pound range.
It's far lighter than many of the modern pistols which are double action and comparable with a single action Ruger.
If your pistols trigger pull is in the 1 pound range, I'd suggest you just learn to live with it.
If the pull is in the 1-4 ounce range where just a light nudge will fire the gun I'd guess the full cock notch on the hammer has been frinkled with and should be fixed by a good gunsmith or by buying a replacement hammer.
btech said:
Do it again and if it's too loose, do it the other way.
Those leaf springs are not always hardened and tempered right so bend the spring at your own risk.
On the positive side, Dixie Gunworks sells replacements. :hmm:
On the positive side, Dixie Gunworks sells replacements. :hmm:
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