I've got a used 1862 pocket police .36 and the barrel seems way too tight to me. The barrel has to be tapped off with something like a piece of wood or a plastic screwdriver handle. After removal, I can install the barrel without the wedge and it can be removed without tapping. With the wedge tapped in and then removed, the barrel is stuck on. AFAIK, I'm not over tightening the wedge as the cylinder doesn't seem to have too little of a gap and spins freely. This is my first open frame pistol, so maybe it's normal. The gun is used, but looks new.
1862 Pocket Police Replica barrel removal
- Thread starter HandyAndy
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Polish around the end of the arbor. Use a candle to smoke the arbor and reassemble. When you take it apart, look and see where the black rubs off--that is where it needs a little careful filing or sanding to reduce the tightness. Ideally you shouldn't have to whack on it to get it apart.
With the wedge pulled out, lower the rammer on the web between chambers and lever the barrel off the arbor. Its easy.
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Also be careful to not be overly strong when tapping in the wedge. Lightly does it.
This is Colt's instructions for using their revolvers:
DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING COLT'S PISTOLS.
First explode acap on each nipple to clear them from oil or dust, then draw back the hammer to the half-cock, which allows the
cylinder to be rotated; a charge of powder is then placed in one of the chambers, keeping the barrel up. and a ball with the pointed end upwards without wadding or patch is
put into the mouth of the chamber. turned under the rammer, and forced down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder, so that it cannot hinder its rotation
(care should be used in ramming down the ball not to shake the powder from the chamber, thereby reducing the charge).
This is repeated until all the chambers are loaded. Percussion-caps are then placed on the nipples on the right of the lock-frame, where, by drawing back the hammer in the full-cock
the arm is in condition for a discharge by pulling the trigger; a repetition of the same motion produces the like results with six shots without reloading.
It will be safe to use all the Powder the chambers will hold, when loading with the flask, leaving room for the Ball, whether the Powder is strong or weak. Fine grain Powder is the best. Soft lead must be used for the balls. The cylinder is not to be taken off when loaded. The hammer, when at full cock forms the sight by which aim is taken.
To carry the arm safely when loaded let down the hammer on one of the pins between each nipple, on the end of the cylinder.
The arm should be throughly cleaned and oiled after firing, partriculary the arbor-pin on which the cylinder turns.
DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING WITH COLT'S FOIL CARTRIDGE
Take the white case off the Cartridge, by holding the bullet end and tearing it down with the black tape. Place the Cartridge in the mouth of the chamber of the cylinder,
with the pointed end of the bullet uppermost, one at a time and turn them under the rammer, forcing them down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder so that they cannot hinder its rotation.
To ensure certainty of Ignition, it is advisable to puncture the end of the Cargtridge, so that a small portion of gunpowder may escape into the chamber while loading the pistol.
DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING
Set the lock at half-cock; drive out the key that holds the barrel and cylinder to the lock-frame, then draw off the barrel and cylinder by bringing down the lever and forcing the rammer on the partition between the chambers. Take out the nipples. Wash the cylinder and barrel in warm water, dry and oil them throughly; oil freely the base pin on which the cylinder revolves.
TO TAKE THE LOCK TO PIECES, CLEAN AND OIL
First--Remove the stock, by turning out bottom and two rear screws that fasten it to guard and lock-frame, near hammer.
Second-- Loosen the screw that fastens mainspring to the trigger guard and turn spring from under tumbler of the hammer.
Third--Remove the trigger guard by turning out the three screws that fasten it to the lock-frame.
Fourth--Turn out the screw and remove the double arm spring that bears upon the trigger and bolt.
Fifth--Turn out the screw pins that hold the trigger and bolt in their places.
Sixth--Turn out the remaining screw-in and remove the hammer with hand attached, by drawing it downwards out of the lock-frame. Clean all the parts and oil them throughly.
TO PUT THEM TOGETHER--Replace the hammer with hand-spring attached, then the bolt, the trigger, the sear spring, the trigger-guard, the mainspring, and finally the handle, returning each screw to its proper place, the arm is again in for use.
Notice the words I highlighted in blue matches the instructions given by Tom A Hawk.
I did think of trying the loading lever, but was worried about damaging it. I tried it after reading the replies and it does pop the barrel loose with some force on the lever. Are new guns sticky, until the arbor wears in? Another question is how do you know when the wedge is seated correctly?
If you are worried about damaging the cylinder or rammer put a Popsicle stick between the two.
