1864 production Remington 1858 New Army- how to remove nipples?

[bczrx]

Hello,

New to me original Remington 1858. Serial number puts it at November 1864 production, so third generation?

I want to remove the nipples and could use some tips, but have listed some of the ones I've already found.
Please add to the list, or add the name of a gunsmith who YOU would want to remove the nipples in this 160 year old cylinder.

It is a shooters grade- not collectors.

• No bluing left, antiqued patina, mild flash rust in spots, bore has a few corrosion spots but not bad for a 160 year old black powder firearms.
• The screw that holds the cylinder pin [forgot the term- what the cylinder rotates on] from being pulled out has had the slot rounded off and is pretty much stuck in place.
• Has some hammer marks where someone probably was hammering the cylinder pin handle/tip forward and hit the frame.
• The cylinder advances and locks up properly, although I need to check the alignment properly to verify it is truly aligned. It looks like it.
• Hammer/trigger work properly, even though the trigger pull feels like it is around 9lbs or so.

However, I would like to remove the nipples and replace them with modern ones- as I want something I can shoot [probably nothing more than 25gr of powder with a ball] rather than a wall hanger.

I have no idea if the nipples have ever been removed before. There is no obvious signs of rust corroding the nipple and it's hole on the rear of the cylinder.

• I have read the trick to soak in Kroil and plan on doing so- probably for about 2 weeks [due to a trip].
• I have also order the Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench.
• I have been checking out the modified sockets that allow me to use a breaker bar.
• I've read about using an impact wrench to break it loose as well.
• I've also read the tips on using a drill press to apply pressure and manually twisting the arbor to loosen the nipples.

What concerns me is that most of this is for nipples in cylinders under 60 years old- not 160.
For example, I don't think I want to try the heat/cold techniques on this original Remington cylinder.


Is there any other major 'trick' I'm missing?

Does anyone make any fitting that has 2-3 rods go into the cylinder and is in a base that is wide enough for me to grab with a vise and not mar the cylinder?

I want to be cautious about how much force to put on the cylinder when doing any of the above.

Lastly, is there a gunsmith recommendation for these old civil war era firearms that you'd trust to remove the nipples and replace them?

I do a LOT of my own gunsmithing, on firearms from 1895 to 2024 production years, in all sorts of actions.​

I am not too worried about doing this- However, I also admit that at this stage I'd be perfectly happy having a professional do this so that I don't damage anything.​

Thank you in advance.

 

[russellshaffer]

I got a set of these from Home Depot. They have grooves for holding round stuff and they work well for lots of projects. They will hold your cylinder plenty tight without damaging it.

 

[Davey Boy]

You shouldn't have to use any force like you are describing.

Which means you don't have to clamp it up in a vise requiring a pipe extension on the vise.

Do a rolling boil in water

Use a tool to exactly fit the nipple

When trying to unscrew something that doesn't want to budge, try to tighten it. Only has to move a smidgeon. If it will move any amount, work it in each direction with absolute minimum effort. Eventually it will move more and more. keep the penetrating fluids going through all the time and let it set hours at a time.

My favorite penetrant is iodine.

There are many threads in this forum that describe what you are attempting.

Post pictures !

 

[wiscoaster]

Best advice directly above.

 

[bczrx]

Thank you all, and for anyone who adds even more tips.

Just an FYI, I am leaving at o-dark thirty tomorrow for a trip and may not have access to read/comment for a bit. When I get back I will be able to try applying these tips.

I am leaving the cylinder in a sealed jar half-immersed in Kroil. Nipple end down, of course.

Thanks again. And for anyone new who has more to suggest, I'd appreciate it.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Ohhhh......Gun nipples. Nevermind.

 

[Tenring]

I made two just to see how they would work and I like them better than the one from OX YOKE.

 

[RMFnLA]

Use a screw extractor to remove the old nipples.

 

[bpd303]

I'm sorry I don't have a picture of a tool I made to work on cap&ball cylinders out of the gun frame. Works to remove nipples and to load the cylinder out of the gun. It consists of a steel plate with a central arbor (post) that fits the cylinder and another arbor out the distance of a chamber. When you put the cylinder on the central arbor, the other arbor (post) goes into the chamber that keeps the cylinder from turning, when the base is clamped in a vise a lot of torque can be applied to the nipple with a good fitting nipple wrench will break the nipple loose.
The arbors are bolts with the heads cut off that screw into the plate that is drilled and tapped for the threads.
For loading the second bolt is left out and a loading ram is on a handle that is welded to the plate and rotates down to seat the ball. I actually copied a commercial reloading tool, I'll see if I can find a picture of it.
I can't take a picture of the one I made because I loaned it to a friend and he passed away and his wife gave all his tools to someone else. I figured I can make another if I need it.

Edit: add pictures. This is the nipple wrench I made out of 1/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar.

This is a commercial loading stand that looks like mine only mine is welded and not as elaborate with the second arbor that is removable but you get the idea of how it's made.

 

[RMFnLA]

I'm sorry I don't have a picture of a tool I made to work on cap&ball cylinders out of the gun frame. Works to remove nipples and to load the cylinder out of the gun. It consists of a steel plate with a central arbor (post) that fits the cylinder and another arbor out the distance of a chamber. When you put the cylinder on the central arbor, the other arbor (post) goes into the chamber that keeps the cylinder from turning, when the base is clamped in a vise a lot of torque can be applied to the nipple with a good fitting nipple wrench will break the nipple loose.
The arbors are bolts with the heads cut off that screw into the plate that is drilled and tapped for the threads.
For loading the second bolt is left out and a loading ram is on a handle that is welded to the plate and rotates down to seat the ball. I actually copied a commercial reloading tool, I'll see if I can find a picture of it.
I can't take a picture of the one I made because I loaned it to a friend and he passed away and his wife gave all his tools to someone else. I figured I can make another if I need it.

Edit: add pictures. This is the nipple wrench I made out of 1/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar.
View attachment 348390
This is a commercial loading stand that looks like mine only mine is welded and not as elaborate with the second arbor that is removable but you get the idea of how it's made.
View attachment 348388

I’m looking to make a small nipple wrench like that for my 1849 pockets.

How did you cut the notches in the socket?

 

[bpd303]

How did you cut the notches in the socket?

I used a Dremel with a small cut off wheel. EDIT: I did clamp the sockets in a vise so the wheel didn't eat my thumb.

 

[RMFnLA]

I used a Dremel with a small cut off wheel.

Nice, exactly what I was going to try!

The ceramic wheels? I used those on another project and it took several because they’d disintegrate fairly quickly.

I later used a diamond wheel and it worked much better, maybe I’ll start with that.

Either way, thanks!