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1st muzzleloader and some hunting

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Boer

32 Cal.
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I bought a Lyman Trade rifle in .54 this week (my first black powder rifle). I finished up the powder horn I made and installed the adjustable sight that comes with the rifle after grinding the top flat. I got some powder and caps, I have spend one evening casting balls and I am measuring rags with a vernier. Last night I was overwhelmed with this urge to open the lock and polish things up a bit. I got the lock apart without mayor problems and basically did everything I am not supposed to do. (The lawyers warn against) Putting it together again the main spring and the thingey inside shot out. I got the main spring but not the other part. After spending 40 minutes crawling around on my workshop floor hunting for it amongst horn scrapings, wood dust and metal chips, I realised that it could also be outside as the door was slightly open. Ten minutes later, when I started thinking of making one on the lathe, I found the part outside. After a bit of a struggle to get the spring back and another hunt for the sear spring also, I had everything together again. Ended up with a hole in my hand where the screwdriver went in and a very nice trigger pull.

I would be interested to hear about smart ways of removing and putting back the main spring. I was not very impressed with the workmanship and quality of the parts inside the lock. The lockplate had heavy burrs on the inside where it would matter and everything very unpolished. I like the rifle and the way it hangs in the hands. I will try to go shooting today.
 
Not meaning to sound like a wise guy but you sound like a fella that just has to take things apart and dabble a bit. Not a bad thing if you know what your doing. Maybe it's time you pay a visit to a gunsmith and get some pointers and the needed tools to do such a job as the one you scared yourself on :thumbsup:
 
If the lock is similar to a TC lock, coiled mainspring with a guide rod through it, resting in a cup on the tumble, here's how I do it:

1) Relax the hammer full forward to decompress the spring as much as possible;

2) Set a box or something around your work area to block the spring if you do lose control of it;

3) Put a leather glove on your left hand;

4) Use a pair of needle nose pliers to push the nose of the guide rod back just enough to clear it out of the cup on the tumbler and you're done;

5) Reassemble the same way;


PS: if you're going to fiddle around with things like this, and IMO, you should as it's fun...it's a good idea to get your self a spare backup lock, or as least get a set of the loose replaceable internal parts of the lock...otherwise, if this happens again in the middle of hunting season, and you're not as lucky in finding the part, you're SOL until you locate and have the new replacement parts shipped to you...I get them before I need them.
 
The Lymans may look a little rough, but there is really not any need to take them apart.

I have found that separating metal parts from wood and horn shavings is best done with a fairly strong magnet. Worked quite well when losy some ML screwsunder my workbench. I also found a lot of other lost bits and metal shavings.

CS
 
Boer I just Did a lock last nite. If yours has a v spring heres how I do them. I cock hammer, take needle nose pliers (vice grips) ,set them,on spring,lock,release hammer off notch, lift out spring.I Did another one a couple days ago and got to rough with the sear spring I had to order one,broke it.I have a diamond file I use on the stamp marks,it does good. I have a main spring vise, but it dosen't always work that great. I cold blue the parts with Birchwood Casey Perma Blue Paste Gun Blue ,after parts are polished. I have lots more I can do. If you do order,as shipping is high get some extras,thats what I did .The diamond file is made by Smith, I got it at Wallmarts,7.00 Its the long tapered one. Hope this helps . A little bit of lead, A little bit powder, Shoots far and Kills dead. Dilly
 
I just did a little polishing on the lock on my Mountain Rifle. I had to replace a broken sear, and adjust it all. Initially it just put it back together with no polishing. It would not work! I used a diamond polishing "stone" with a super fine grit. I polished the side of the sear that rides on the lock plate and the top where it mates with the tumbler. It works much better now, and once the parts "bed" together from some use, it will be even smoother. I lubed it well and put it all back in. Then I had the fun of adjusting the set triggers...
 
Hey Boer,

If one intends to remove V-type main springs, the best investment you can make is in a good main spring vise. As I understand it, the Lyman has a coil MS, which I am unfamilar with those .

As to the innards of the lock being rough, not really that unusual. I have found even on the pricey one's, it behooves me to take apart, hone & polish up the workings. (called tuning by some) Net results have always been a much smoother working lock.
 
Hi Boer, glad you got it back together.

Word of caution on compressed springs and such, please get some safety glasses for protection. Those danged springs can hurt your eye pretty quick.

Please forgive my preaching and enjoy the smoke pole!
 

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