.32 Crockett hammer issues

[MDHunter]

Hey guys my .32 Crockett won’t always fire when I set the rear trigger. It will just fall to half cock. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. Anything I can do to fix this or do I need to have it looked at ?

 

[ppg1949]

I had a similar issue with a replica Zouave when I first tried to shoot it. My problem was the cross bolt that screwed into the rear of the lock from the opposite side was to tight. I backed it off a half turn and it was fine. I hope this helps.

 

[Grenadier1758]

There is something wrong with the fly in the lock. Either the fly has been lost or stuck in the wrong position. Do not shoot your Crocket until you have corrected the issue with the fly. The fly is a tiny metal piece that sits over the half cock notch. The sear rides on the tumbler and pushes the fly over the half cock notch so the sear can pass over the half cock notch.

Remove your lock and look for the fly.

Here is a link to the Traditions manual for the Crockett. Go to the drawing of the lock. The fly is part L. It is very tiny and can be easily lost or bound up by over lightening of the bridle bolts.

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/data/product_schematics/Crockett Rifle_1364993685.pdf

 

[hawkeye2]

The fly is the tiny item marked "L" in the diagram of the lock on the second page.

https://www.traditionsfirearms.com/data/product_schematics/Crockett Rifle_1364993685.pdf

 

[Grenadier1758]

You can certainly remove the lock and look for the fly and verify it is in the tumbler and its function with the lock removed.

With the lock removed, pull the hammer to full cock. Holding the hammer, release the sear and ease the tumbler through the hammer cycle and verify the sear rides over the fly and over the half cock notch.

 

[Grenadier1758]

You can certainly remove your lock and look for the fly. You can test the function of the fly by cocking the hammer to full cock. While holding the hammer to prevent it from falling, release the sear to ease the sear along the tumbler. The sear should push the fly over the half cock notch and lift the sear over the half cock notch. If the sear engages the half cock notch, try to figure it out (often heavy grease to cause the fly to stick, missing fly, bridle bolts too tight causing burrs on the fly to stick). If you do not have the tools to disassemble the lock, take the lock to a black powder gunsmith to be looked into.

 

[MDHunter]

Thank you ! I’ll loosen the screw a touch and check the insides. Also the link is extremely helpful. You guys are great thanks again!

 

[russellshaffer]

If you take the lock apart be very very careful with the fly. As has been said, it is very tiny and easy to lose. I dropped mine and was extremely fortunate to find it. One tiny black speck on a well used concrete floor.

 

[Zonie]

If someone is going to take their guns lock apart and it has a fly in it, I suggest they first find a piece of masking tape, adhesive tape or even magic tape first. Then, when they take the fly out of the lock they can stick it to the piece of tape.
Not only will the tape keep the fly from becoming lost but, it is real easy to see a piece of tape on a bench or table. It is just about impossible to see a fly laying there all by itself.

 

[crankshaft]

I took off the lock and bbl off mine, the reassembly was not right.
I had your problem
I don't remember which I attached first, Lock or bbl. But just a redo corrected the issue.
Ennyhoo, the lock could be too tight, or bolted on some slight angle.

 

[MDHunter]

Thanks guys hoping to get to it this weekend. Cheers happy holidays!

 

[Kansas Jake]

For things like a fly, those cheap magnetic trays from Harbor Freight are just the ticket. They keep small screws and parts from taking a walk.

 

[MDHunter]

Well I’ve had various success from trying the above but ultimately it would stop at half cock again at some point. I really dove into it today and got the problem pin pointed. It turns out the sear is too sloppy and it can actually go around the fly to stop at half cock. The only thing I can think to do is shim the sear ? Any thoughts? Screw holding sear is tight.

 

[MDHunter]

Shim has worked so far. Dry fired onto a pad to protect nipple about 30 40 times with no issues. Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[MDHunter]

Shim went between the sear and bridle

 

[rafterob]

Well if that worked great. But I think that screw on the sear is not in all the way. It should not be sticking up above the bridle like that. Perhaps the hole is not tapped fully through the lock plate?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Either that or there are not enough threads on the screw. Getting a die on the screw could be a challenge. The shim may well be the solution although keeping track of the shim when the lock is taken apart for cleaning will be a challenge. If I am in my shop, I get a large box and a white towel to disassemble something in the box. Keeps the fly and other small parts on one location.

 

[MDHunter]

Well if that worked great. But I think that screw on the sear is not in all the way. It should not be sticking up above the bridle like that. Perhaps the hole is not tapped fully through the lock plate?

Your right, I believe I loosened it up just prior to the picture. But tightening it up as much as could didn’t help because the tumbler was thicker than the sear, allowing the sear to remain loose and go around the fly stopping it at half cock.

 

[MDHunter]

Either that or there are not enough threads on the screw. Getting a die on the screw could be a challenge. The shim may well be the solution although keeping track of the shim when the lock is taken apart for cleaning will be a challenge. If I am in my shop, I get a large box and a white towel to disassemble something in the box. Keeps the fly and other small parts on one location.

How often do you recommend a full breakdown of the locks for cleaning? Thanks.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I would recommend a full breakdown at the end of the shooting season and the gun is going to be put away for a couple of months.

You will need a mainspring clamp to take the lock apart and properly fitting screwdrivers. The full takedown of a lock depends on how much the rifle has been shot and how dirty the interior of the lock is. For the most part, a good cleaning can be done by a tooth brush and warm water with maybe a bit of soap. Dry with a clean cloth and spray the internals with Barricade for storage. If the lock is heavily fouled and feels sluggish, then it needs to be taken apart. Do this in a box with a white cloth or layer of white paper towels to keep the parts visible. As the lock is taken apart lay the parts down in an organized fashion in relation to where the parts came from. Pay special attention to the fly. On an L&R lock, the fly can be replaced two ways. Lay it on the surface as it is removed from the tumbler. Once the lock is taken apart, each piece can be cleaned separately. When reassembling the lock, I use a rust inhibiting grease sparingly on the threads and the rubbing surfaces and very sparingly in the fly recess in the tumbler. Tighten screws to a snug fit since parts also need to move such as the tumbler and the seer. Once assembled, cycle the lock by hand to verify smooth action with no drag.