I just picked up my Dad's .44 cal revolver (which he has yet to fire) to try out at the range. How different is it to load compared to my .50 cal rifle? I know I need fffg instead of ffg. Looking on-line, I see different sized rbs for a .44 cal, which do I need? I assume I still use patches like rifles, correct? Can or should I use conicals with bore butter? I also see wads mentioned, what, where, how, and why do I need them? Or do I? Thanks.
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.44 cal pistol usage
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Ok, first off, NO PATCHES with a revolver. If it is a Colt or Remington copy you can use .454 rd balls. If it is a Ruger Old Army, you need .457's. Ok, now you pour about 20 grs of powder, (starting point) in one of the chambers. Now you can use an Ox Yoke felt Wonder Wad over the powder if you want, but it isn't a necessity. Now you put a rd. ball on that chamber and line it up with the loading lever beneath the barrel. Release the lever and ram the ball down on the powder. You may need to use some cornmeal or similar filler to take up the extra space in the cylinder with the light powder charges so the ball will seat all the way down on the powder. After the ball is seated, do the same thing with 4 more cylinders. I know it's a six shooter, but for safety, leave the hammer down on an empty chamber. Now put some sort of grease over each rd. ball to soften fouling and prevent chainfires. Next put a cap on each nipple and it is ready to fire. Before loading it though, it would be a good idea to pull the cylinder and put some grease on the cylinder pin to keep it turning freely for a cylinder or two.
Thanks for the info. It is a New Army Model 1860 in .44 cal. Start off with 20 grains of powder (I assume fffg?), check. What would be a ballpark max if I may ask? And no patches, got it. You say grease, not bore butter? What kind of grease, crisco? I also assume using #11 primers as they do fit (I was too ancious to wait)?
As far as a max load, whatever the chamber will hold and still be able to seat a ball below the top of the chamber. Is it a steel frame or brass frame? If it is brass, you won't want to shoot max loads in it. As far as caps, i use #11's but #10's may fit better. I just squeeze the 11's to make them fit on the nipple tight. And Crisco or Bore butter will work. All it is for is to soften the fouling and prevent a chainfire, which if the ball fits tight like it should (there should be a ring of lead shaved off the ball when you seat it) then the only way a chainfire is likely to happen, is if a cap falls off a loaded chamber and the flash goes in through the nipple. They do make conicals for revolvers. Buffalo Bullet company makes some. You load them just the same as a rda ball. If you have any more questions just ask. I'm sure there are a lot of other guys (and gals :
here shooting revolvers. Have a ball. I'm sure once you get started you will get a real bang out of it. :: They are a real blast. ::
here shooting revolvers. Have a ball. I'm sure once you get started you will get a real bang out of it. :: They are a real blast. ::Guest
Hard to improve on rebels advice and I won't try.
The 1860 is the finest looking revolver Colt or any of the reproduciton companies ever made altho the 1851 Navy runs it a very close second. My standard load is 30 grs. of FFFg and a 457 round ball. After having new front sights made for my 1860's I filed them in to shoot to point of aim at 25 yards and both are capable of 2 1/2 - 3 in. groups, centered, and when I do my part, whiuch is rare, they will break the 2 in. barrier. More often than not cap and ball revolvers will shoot quite high at 25 yards. I also always use 457 round balls in all my 44 revolvers. I believe but can't prove that the larger ball provides more bearing surface but in my head it does and mathematically it should, if only a tiny bit. Mostly I'm more comfortable with the larger ball. Anyway, shoot it and have a ball.....they are great fun!
Vic
The 1860 is the finest looking revolver Colt or any of the reproduciton companies ever made altho the 1851 Navy runs it a very close second. My standard load is 30 grs. of FFFg and a 457 round ball. After having new front sights made for my 1860's I filed them in to shoot to point of aim at 25 yards and both are capable of 2 1/2 - 3 in. groups, centered, and when I do my part, whiuch is rare, they will break the 2 in. barrier. More often than not cap and ball revolvers will shoot quite high at 25 yards. I also always use 457 round balls in all my 44 revolvers. I believe but can't prove that the larger ball provides more bearing surface but in my head it does and mathematically it should, if only a tiny bit. Mostly I'm more comfortable with the larger ball. Anyway, shoot it and have a ball.....they are great fun!
Vic
Guest
Some guys have good luck with heavy loads in their cap and ball revolvers. Myself when using round ball I have my best accuracy with light powder charges (18 gr.) with the top of the cylinders sealed with Crisco
For heavy loads I use Lee .456 HP mould, I can get 37 gr. of Pyrodex P. under the bullet and accuracy is very acceptable (2 inch groups at 25 yards) the revolver I'm using is the Ruger old Army, the Walkers hold more powder, the 1860 army hold less.
For heavy loads I use Lee .456 HP mould, I can get 37 gr. of Pyrodex P. under the bullet and accuracy is very acceptable (2 inch groups at 25 yards) the revolver I'm using is the Ruger old Army, the Walkers hold more powder, the 1860 army hold less.
