47 Walker (new Uberti): My Take on Shooting it So Far

[Smokerr]

I am enthralled with it. Its a coin flip to shooting it or the ROA, both are very different so they have different appeal. The 47 Goes first now of course.

Kudo to 45D, Arbor is still too short. I am doing my own crude fix with washers for now. Good to have the heads up to be ready for that and the quick fix for now.

Clearly pound for pound you get your money worth out of the Walker. Its a hoot of a heavy gun and its what I wanted.

I shot it two rounds with GOEX 3F as one shop I deal with had it and it was, hmmm, I want to try it. The Walker breaks down so you can put the barrel in soapy water to clean, which I do not want to do to the Ruger or the NMAs (which are now the least shot - the Walker or the ROA just crying out, Me First, me second, me third.

Black powder makes a much worse mess in the barrel that the substitutes. It was starting to rust when I got it into the soapy water a few hours after I shot it. It and the cylinder as well as the ROA cylinder went into the water as soon as I had my dinner . I pulled the cones on both to get a good clean out.

I had spent the day at the range, ergo, no more than 4 hours after the last 47 shooting. Our humidity levels are low and it still was start a tad or rust. They had to kick me out at the end (I shot my target rifles as well). 35 degrees, nice by our standards.

Temps have been amendable to loading cylinders (above 30 deg in the shed its good and if I time it right, sun into the shed). Current sun is low so at 1 pm or so its right in your eyes and time to go shoot the rifles.

It does eat a lot of powder if you load it up and I got it to load up. Best load was the GOEX at 2 inches at 924 FPS with a .457 ball and a wad. I will throttle that one back some more and try it at 700-800 fps (I have a lab radar so I can get good readings though it pick the wad up sometimes)

As many have noted, it shoots more accurately at lower velocity. I will keep playing with that. Now I know where it patterns with what powder I can move it out past the 25 feet I was shooting at.


It came working just fine (sans the short arbor). Timing good.

The Wedge system (assuming its working right) is fine. I had one Range Officer apologize for not giving me time to get the cylinder off. No problem, light tap with my wooden stick and it comes right out. Its quicker than the ROA.

The Hammer sight notch works just fine. The longer sight radius I can see even without the Eyepal. If the sun is right in your eyes not using the Eyepal works better.

The loading port is not friendly to JD conical s. It needs to be opened up. I am going to shoot it a lot more before I do any mods.

Cylinder lock up and barrel alignment are spot on.

The one head scratcher when caps started not popping was resolved when I took it down and found a nicely flattened cap in the hammer stop area. I could not see it until I got it broke down. Jam I was expecting, but that one sure contoured nicely.

 

[M. De Land]

I am enthralled with it. Its a coin flip to shooting it or the ROA, both are very different so they have different appeal. The 47 Goes first now of course.

Kudo to 45D, Arbor is still too short. I am doing my own crude fix with washers for now. Good to have the heads up to be ready for that and the quick fix for now.

Clearly pound for pound you get your money worth out of the Walker. Its a hoot of a heavy gun and its what I wanted.

I shot it two rounds with GOEX 3F as one shop I deal with had it and it was, hmmm, I want to try it. The Walker breaks down so you can put the barrel in soapy water to clean, which I do not want to do to the Ruger or the NMAs (which are now the least shot - the Walker or the ROA just crying out, Me First, me second, me third.

Black powder makes a much worse mess in the barrel that the substitutes. It was starting to rust when I got it into the soapy water a few hours after I shot it. It and the cylinder as well as the ROA cylinder went into the water as soon as I had my dinner . I pulled the cones on both to get a good clean out.

I had spent the day at the range, ergo, no more than 4 hours after the last 47 shooting. Our humidity levels are low and it still was start a tad or rust. They had to kick me out at the end (I shot my target rifles as well). 35 degrees, nice by our standards.

Temps have been amendable to loading cylinders (above 30 deg in the shed its good and if I time it right, sun into the shed). Current sun is low so at 1 pm or so its right in your eyes and time to go shoot the rifles.

It does eat a lot of powder if you load it up and I got it to load up. Best load was the GOEX at 2 inches at 924 FPS with a .457 ball and a wad. I will throttle that one back some more and try it at 700-800 fps (I have a lab radar so I can get good readings though it pick the wad up sometimes)

As many have noted, it shoots more accurately at lower velocity. I will keep playing with that. Now I know where it patterns with what powder I can move it out past the 25 feet I was shooting at.


It came working just fine (sans the short arbor). Timing good.

The Wedge system (assuming its working right) is fine. I had one Range Officer apologize for not giving me time to get the cylinder off. No problem, light tap with my wooden stick and it comes right out. Its quicker than the ROA.

The Hammer sight notch works just fine. The longer sight radius I can see even without the Eyepal. If the sun is right in your eyes not using the Eyepal works better.

The loading port is not friendly to JD conical s. It needs to be opened up. I am going to shoot it a lot more before I do any mods.

Cylinder lock up and barrel alignment are spot on.

The one head scratcher when caps started not popping was resolved when I took it down and found a nicely flattened cap in the hammer stop area. I could not see it until I got it broke down. Jam I was expecting, but that one sure contoured nicely.

Yeah, I've been thinking 45-Ds metal strip block of the hammer slot a pretty good idea on my Walker of late but I'll shoot it a bit more and see if it keeps dropping caps in the action ! I don't care for the cap rake idea much though.

 

[smokeum54]

Only thing bad about shooting a walker, is trying to hold it up

 

[Smokerr]

I may try it but I don't have the arm strength I had even 5 years ago.

I am good with hand resting. Its nice to have long sight radius guns I can shoot again. Eyes seem to have changed for the better but have to get the S&W N Frame down one of these days and see how that looks. The Model 41 is really good with the Eypal.

The Eypal is better picture but I can see ok without it, it does not work with the sun in your eyes.

 

[Sound Tribe]

Thank you for posting your experience with the Walker!

It stood out to me that you find that substitutes cause less fouling in your guns? I have heard it both ways.
What black powder brand vs what substitute brand was easier to clean for you? And are you referring to the Walker or in the ROA and NMA only?

I assume the ridged arbor maybe has something to do with this vs the ROA/NMA unless you are talking all 3.

I ask because I own a ROA (awaiting delivery on a stainless model) and NMA and just had the idea of getting a Walker + Whitneyville Dragoon combo in the near future. I also just ordered a couple lbs of Goex (Swiss was out of stock)

I've got local access to substitutes only but I've heard and seen on various tests (Youtube) showing fouling from Goex vs. Pyrodex, that the Goex was much easier to clean (hot soapy water or ballistol/water Moose Milk) but the test did show that Triple 7 was about as easy to clean as the black powder

So I've had it in my mind that in order of less fouling to deal with: Swiss >>> Goex = Triple 7 > Pyrodex
(Regular Goex, not OE)

I'd appreciate any info on this, without trying to hijack the thread too much.
I am also trying to decide which gun to be Goonerized, too much good feedback to not have at least one gun done!

 

[jrweis1997]

I want one of these but too many projects going on currently in time ill get one

 

[Smokerr]

I'd appreciate any info on this, without trying to hijack the thread too much.
I am also trying to decide which gun to be Goonerized, too much good feedback to not have at least one gun done!

I am happy to pass on what I have done and found out. Keep in mind we tend to work things out that suits our personality and or experience (guns or work background). So it can be me specific.

No you are not hi-jacking, its what this is for and ithey are appropriate question(s). I got my info on cleaning fluid from a guy who tested it with heavy carbon in rifles and proved it worked (he used a Hawkeyhe Borscope so he could prove and doucment it). I have taken his work and came up with a variation that works for me.

Ok, to clarify. I have the ROA, the Walker as well as two NMA types. The ASP was what got me going on Black Powder revolvers and I will continue to shoot them, but save them for warmer weather.

From what I saw after the GOEX in the Walker (only in the Walker) was the GOEX left a heck of a lot more stuff in the barrel than Pyro or 777. I had planned for that as you can do just the barrel (and in my case the cylinder) in water and dish soap. I happen to have Dawn which is spoken highly of, I do not know if its true or any good grease cutting dish soap will do. But it goes a bank up job.

Soak the whole gun in water and dish soap and then you have put water inside the mechanism and its going to rust in there unless you dry it out and my take is you will trap water and its going to rust unless you disassemble it complete and dry it out. That is my opinion, I have not tested it.

So for the Walker and the ROA cylinder (so far) both cylinders went into the soapy water and I used a 45 cal brush on a cleaning rod on the barrel and the cylinder chambers, took about 5 minutes to clean them up and out as it were. Then I tried drying them in the oven. That did not work that well.

What I do have is a fruit type dryer for my other reload case cleaning system. It has an fan and it dries those gun parts out nicely. The oven will dry them out eventually but the dryer works better for me and I have it. The Walker barrel comes out clean as a whistle. The GOEX was the last load shot through it (and I had tried the Walker barrel cleaning previously but with Pyro and 777 having been the powder. So I knew I could clean it well with the soapy water.

Cylinders I removed the cones so it had good flow through and not leave a wet deposit up on the cone end. That worked nicely as well.

I am also thinking about a gun to Mike, though he might make me dangle as I was passing on rumors in another thread.

The 47 Walker is shooting and runs fine timing wise. The ROA is a tad off on timing, not horrible but annoying, that may be the one to send. I don't think the NMA type would benefit nearly as much and just shoot those for fun and do the more serious best accuracy shooting with the Walker and ROA.

As for the ROA cleaning it (basically the barrel and frame) I have a system I have worked out with a bit of trials.

First I run the 45 caliber nylon brush through it and push out the crud that will break loose (pretty good slug of it).

Then my form of magic and the reason the brush is Nylon. There is a product out there called Carbon Killer 2000. Its designed specifically to deal with Carbon in cartridge guns (basically my target and mil surplus rifles). It will do some copper but the only guns I have seen copper in were guns shot a lot that had layers of carbon and copper. Nylon because a brass brush will turn green with the CK2K.

Carbon Killer 2000 (CK2K for short) is a modern non haz and low odor cleaner. If I do a rifle at the range when its warm, I can clean out a gun in 5 patches.

After the first runs through with the dry nylon brush, I use an eye dropper to put the CK2K on the bristles and run it down the barrel to the cylinder opening. I then drizzle more on it and pull it back through. I then run a dry patch through it, the first one comes out really black. I repeat the Nylon brush with the CK2K on it, then a dry patch. It takes about 5 cycles like that and its clean as a whistle. I do the NMA the same way. Cylinders I can clean with the Walker or ROA in the soapy water.

note: If you do deal with copper, then Bore Tech is focused on copper and does some carbon. Also no haz and no odor. I have it and used it on a few guns but if I do my end right I get no copper. Same setup as CK2K process wise.

The Pistols don't have to be warm for the CK2K to work. And while I like the substitute powders fine, the GOEX shot the best group in the Walker so far and that works out good.

777 Shoot fine, but, its a smaller charge and I think there is something to the idea that the closer the ball is to the end of the chamber the bettter accuary gets you (replacing the filler approach with powder0

My modification to that is to use the bulkier Pyro or GOEX and then put a wad in there and you get it right to the mouth.

 

[Smokerr]

I want one of these but too many projects going on currently in time ill get one

At my age I am going for the gusto. If you got more time on the planet then you might not have to finish up the bucket lists. I am stopping at the 4 BP revolvers now. The two NMA were trainers and still fun to shoot and the Walker and the ROA my serious shooters, just to see how good I can get with them.

 

[dracer]

I have been saving up and on a look out for a walker at a good price

 

[Smokerr]

I got mine from Midway. Price is good, worst case if it has issues you get with Uberti though you could also just send it onto 45D.

I forget where I cam across the comment that price is not the main aspect, powder and shot (in this case) will cost a lot more over time than the gun. Midway had the best price and I could get it on the way.

 

[CyrusP]

I recently shot my newly Goonerized Uberti Taylor’s Walker and was very happy with it. I’d shot it once or twice previous to Goonerization and had a few cap jams that required partial disassembly (grip frame) to remove the offender. After full Goonerization, zero cap jams and accurate shooting, I am thrilled. I did use paper cartridges I made with the GOTW kit and struggled with those a bit since I didn’t have that heavy .454 ball glued well enough in the cartridge so I experienced some spillage. NOT the guns fault obviously. The Walker is a blast. Add some tweaks and it’s a reliable blast.

 

[45D]

I recently shot my newly Goonerized Uberti Taylor’s Walker and was very happy with it. I’d shot it once or twice previous to Goonerization and had a few cap jams that required partial disassembly (grip frame) to remove the offender. After full Goonerization, zero cap jams and accurate shooting, I am thrilled. I did use paper cartridges I made with the GOTW kit and struggled with those a bit since I didn’t have that heavy .454 ball glued well enough in the cartridge so I experienced some spillage. NOT the guns fault obviously. The Walker is a blast. Add some tweaks and it’s a reliable blast.

Great to hear CyrusP !!

 

[Bad Karma]

I am happy to pass on what I have done and found out. Keep in mind we tend to work things out that suits our personality and or experience (guns or work background). So it can be me specific.

No you are not hi-jacking, its what this is for and ithey are appropriate question(s). I got my info on cleaning fluid from a guy who tested it with heavy carbon in rifles and proved it worked (he used a Hawkeyhe Borscope so he could prove and doucment it). I have taken his work and came up with a variation that works for me.

Ok, to clarify. I have the ROA, the Walker as well as two NMA types. The ASP was what got me going on Black Powder revolvers and I will continue to shoot them, but save them for warmer weather.

From what I saw after the GOEX in the Walker (only in the Walker) was the GOEX left a heck of a lot more stuff in the barrel than Pyro or 777. I had planned for that as you can do just the barrel (and in my case the cylinder) in water and dish soap. I happen to have Dawn which is spoken highly of, I do not know if its true or any good grease cutting dish soap will do. But it goes a bank up job.

Soak the whole gun in water and dish soap and then you have put water inside the mechanism and its going to rust in there unless you dry it out and my take is you will trap water and its going to rust unless you disassemble it complete and dry it out. That is my opinion, I have not tested it.

So for the Walker and the ROA cylinder (so far) both cylinders went into the soapy water and I used a 45 cal brush on a cleaning rod on the barrel and the cylinder chambers, took about 5 minutes to clean them up and out as it were. Then I tried drying them in the oven. That did not work that well.

What I do have is a fruit type dryer for my other reload case cleaning system. It has an fan and it dries those gun parts out nicely. The oven will dry them out eventually but the dryer works better for me and I have it. The Walker barrel comes out clean as a whistle. The GOEX was the last load shot through it (and I had tried the Walker barrel cleaning previously but with Pyro and 777 having been the powder. So I knew I could clean it well with the soapy water.

Cylinders I removed the cones so it had good flow through and not leave a wet deposit up on the cone end. That worked nicely as well.

I am also thinking about a gun to Mike, though he might make me dangle as I was passing on rumors in another thread.

The 47 Walker is shooting and runs fine timing wise. The ROA is a tad off on timing, not horrible but annoying, that may be the one to send. I don't think the NMA type would benefit nearly as much and just shoot those for fun and do the more serious best accuracy shooting with the Walker and ROA.

As for the ROA cleaning it (basically the barrel and frame) I have a system I have worked out with a bit of trials.

First I run the 45 caliber nylon brush through it and push out the crud that will break loose (pretty good slug of it).

Then my form of magic and the reason the brush is Nylon. There is a product out there called Carbon Killer 2000. Its designed specifically to deal with Carbon in cartridge guns (basically my target and mil surplus rifles). It will do some copper but the only guns I have seen copper in were guns shot a lot that had layers of carbon and copper. Nylon because a brass brush will turn green with the CK2K.

Carbon Killer 2000 (CK2K for short) is a modern non haz and low odor cleaner. If I do a rifle at the range when its warm, I can clean out a gun in 5 patches.

After the first runs through with the dry nylon brush, I use an eye dropper to put the CK2K on the bristles and run it down the barrel to the cylinder opening. I then drizzle more on it and pull it back through. I then run a dry patch through it, the first one comes out really black. I repeat the Nylon brush with the CK2K on it, then a dry patch. It takes about 5 cycles like that and its clean as a whistle. I do the NMA the same way. Cylinders I can clean with the Walker or ROA in the soapy water.

note: If you do deal with copper, then Bore Tech is focused on copper and does some carbon. Also no haz and no odor. I have it and used it on a few guns but if I do my end right I get no copper. Same setup as CK2K process wise.

The Pistols don't have to be warm for the CK2K to work. And while I like the substitute powders fine, the GOEX shot the best group in the Walker so far and that works out good.

777 Shoot fine, but, its a smaller charge and I think there is something to the idea that the closer the ball is to the end of the chamber the bettter accuary gets you (replacing the filler approach with powder0

My modification to that is to use the bulkier Pyro or GOEX and then put a wad in there and you get it right to the mouth.

GOEX does foul. A lot. Swiss is much better and I prefer it over any substitute. I don’t know how much you’ll get dinged for shipping to the frozen tundra though…

Walkers and dragoons are a lot of fun though aren’t they!?

 

[Smokerr]

Sadly getting dinged is not what happens in AK, its close to impossible to get powder or primers (caps) up here short of a small fortune. It has to go over the road (see the Alaska Highway) or by barge.

I only have access to GOEX but the Walker likes it. Just have to clean when I get home.

Walker for sure is a lot of fun. Just and awesome piece of iron.

 

[Bad Karma]

Goex is fine powder. For a long time it was all we had too. I wouldn’t feel handicapped in the least if it was all we had now. I hope they begin to supply Olde Eynsford again, excellent powder, the equal of darn near anything else.

That’s kind of bizarre that you were getting rust so quickly after firing. I’ve never experienced that before. In fact, many times I have left guns uncleaned for a day or two as an experiment to see just how corrosive the fouling really is. The answer, at least in Western Colorado, is, not as much as you might think but you best never forget to clean it within a few days or a week.

WRT the internal action parts, @45D turned us on to a neat trick. Stuff the interior of the revolver with Mobil One synthetic grease or equivalent. Close it up and going forward you just clean the bore, cylinder, and exterior surfaces as normal. It’s pretty cold in your part of the world so in winter you may want something else but it works well in the Rockies. Before that I always just sprayed CLP or Eezox into the action after firing. In my experience tearing the whole works down after firing every time is a wasted effort as long as the action is run wet.

 

[Smokerr]

The reference to rust was generic, get water in the action cleaning it with soap and water and its going to.

My approach was to not worry about it with the CK2K cleaning method. I have had the Pietta NMA down a couyple of times and no issues with the BP Substitutes (we run pretty low humidity so that may factor in)

With the Walker, being able to take the barrel off makes it an easy choice. 45 brush and the soapy water is a short session and I am cleaning all the various cylinders as well (NMA, ROA and the 47 Walker)

I don't know GOEX would rust fast but its easy to avoid and the Walker does like the GOEX. I am getting some 3 and 4 in hone holes though the others wander off and I wind up with 2-3 inch group at 45 feet this time.

The Walker and the ROA I will be able to shoot at 75 feet next time, groups are decently if not well centered and more than tight enough not to be off target frame or the edges.

I am fine tuning loads for both but they look to shoot best in the 750-850 fps per second range.

I may try the grease. Nice thing about synthetic is it does not get thicker due to colder temps. I have not take the Walker action down, the two NMA and the ROA I have. Been fighting my Model 41 ops and figured out what was going on if not why and its sorted now.