• If you have bought, sold or gained information from our Classifieds, please donate to Muzzleloading Forum and give back.

    You can become a Supporting Member which comes with a decal or just click here to donate.

  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

WANTED 50/54/58 caliber flintlock long rifle

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Chin up. You can still find a good starter flintlock in your price range... anything from a CVA/Traditions to the Dixie Gun Works Po' Boy, Interarms guns from 20+ years ago, even something real purtty being sold due to the owner's need for money for a newer toy... Stuff shows up on this and other forums, as well as on-line vendors and auctions on a pretty regular basis. Not the AVERAGE gun you see advertised, but things in your range DO show up.
 
Last edited:
Plenty of gently used production guns that are well within your price range, even on here there are some Lyman and TC's that would serve you nicely. Would help you dip your toes in under budget. Your requested long guns are a different nature, built guns will probably start at 1,500 and go up from there new. Kiblers will start at around 1200 and require a little bit of work and most gently used long guns would probably be in the Kibler price and up.
 
Plenty of gently used production guns that are well within your price range, even on here there are some Lyman and TC's that would serve you nicely. Would help you dip your toes in under budget. Your requested long guns are a different nature, built guns will probably start at 1,500 and go up from there new. Kiblers will start at around 1200 and require a little bit of work and most gently used long guns would probably be in the Kibler price and up.
Thank you. It looks like Pedersoli has long rifles that will come well within my budget used. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? I understand bore and rust are important factors. Thanks.
 
Thank you. It looks like Pedersoli has long rifles that will come well within my budget used. Is there anything in particular I should look out for? I understand bore and rust are important factors. Thanks.
Yes, forgot about pedersoli's, have not owned one of them. I would say with production guns, bore is the key, especially buying used. Would keep a lookout on overall looks, normal wear and tear is fine, nicks and scratches in wood and worn bluing would be fine. If it looks like it was used hard and not taken care of on the outside, is probably the same on the inside, but that's the same for any gun. Locks always come up on here about being inferior, I own and shoot Traditions, Lymans and TC's with a couple of custom guns now and they all shoot well, production gun locks are a touch slower but I don't think whatever you shoot at will notice. I found them to be reliable, especially once you learn the gun and can be very accurate. My best shooter, if I were to go to a shoot, is a TC Pa Hunter in .50 flintlock. I bought the gun for 500 and it'll shoot 1 ragged hole at 50yds all day if I do my part right.
 
Be cautious about used rifles, someone can post a picture of what they call a "shiny" bore that on closer examination is actually a bore that is badly pitted because the gun wasn't cleaned properly. There are a lot of these rifles out there, a pitted bore will look shiny if you drop a bobber light down the bore and take a picture from the muzzle, especially if the picture is a little out of focus.

Here is my latest encounter with one of these rifles; I have a reputation around town as the flintlock guy, I know a thing or two about them and the word gets out.

I got a call the other day from a guy who knew a guy who heard I could help him with his flintlock, he was a retired E-8 just back from the sand box, being a vet myself I couldn't turn him down.

I invited him over; he showed up with a pristine looking TC Hawken flintlock, he said he tried to shoot it but it wouldn't go off most of the time and when if it did it had a huge hang fire. He said he paid $500 for the rifle.

One look down the barrel and I could tell the previous owner had shot pydroex and never cleaned the gun, the touch hole was completely plugged with crud.

I told him we had to clean the rifle first, he didn't know the barrel came off easily. I cleaned the barrel for him using a bucket of water to dunk the breech in. Then we looked down the barrel with my Teslong, yikes, just clean wouldn't do it, there were pyrodex crud stalagmites in the bore. I got out my scotch bright pads and gave the bore 25 strokes, this time the bore was still showing pits but the stalagmites were gone.

This guy had a sniper MOs and really knew his gun maintenance but had never owned a B/P rifle.

I loaded the rifle for him, he did have a pound of Goex 3F, he said the guy he bought it from had given him a vial of real B/P to prime it with and out to my range we went.

He primed his rifle and touched it off, nothing, he primed it again, the prime lit off and actually took 5 seconds to burn completely out. I told him he had pydroex in his primer. I primed his pan with 4F, this time she went off like a champ, no delay at all, he was all smiles.

I told him to give the bore another 100 strokes with scotch bright, dry and oil the barrel and store the rifle muzzle down for a week or so to let all the excess oil drain out. I sent him home with a vile of 4F but told him his 3F would work just as well for priming.

Whew, that was a long narrative to emphasize one point, just a few of us know how to treat a B/P rifle properly, the rest of the population don't have a clue. As a newbie, be careful who you buy a used rifle from, I see a bunch of them for sale here that the owner says "great bore" but the bobber light pictures show the subtle signs of serious pitting.
 
Be cautious about used rifles, someone can post a picture of what they call a "shiny" bore that on closer examination is actually a bore that is badly pitted because the gun wasn't cleaned properly. There are a lot of these rifles out there, a pitted bore will look shiny if you drop a bobber light down the bore and take a picture from the muzzle, especially if the picture is a little out of focus.

Here is my latest encounter with one of these rifles; I have a reputation around town as the flintlock guy, I know a thing or two about them and the word gets out.

I got a call the other day from a guy who knew a guy who heard I could help him with his flintlock, he was a retired E-8 just back from the sand box, being a vet myself I couldn't turn him down.

I invited him over; he showed up with a pristine looking TC Hawken flintlock, he said he tried to shoot it but it wouldn't go off most of the time and when if it did it had a huge hang fire. He said he paid $500 for the rifle.

One look down the barrel and I could tell the previous owner had shot pydroex and never cleaned the gun, the touch hole was completely plugged with crud.

I told him we had to clean the rifle first, he didn't know the barrel came off easily. I cleaned the barrel for him using a bucket of water to dunk the breech in. Then we looked down the barrel with my Teslong, yikes, just clean wouldn't do it, there were pyrodex crud stalagmites in the bore. I got out my scotch bright pads and gave the bore 25 strokes, this time the bore was still showing pits but the stalagmites were gone.

This guy had a sniper MOs and really knew his gun maintenance but had never owned a B/P rifle.

I loaded the rifle for him, he did have a pound of Goex 3F, he said the guy he bought it from had given him a vial of real B/P to prime it with and out to my range we went.

He primed his rifle and touched it off, nothing, he primed it again, the prime lit off and actually took 5 seconds to burn completely out. I told him he had pydroex in his primer. I primed his pan with 4F, this time she went off like a champ, no delay at all, he was all smiles.

I told him to give the bore another 100 strokes with scotch bright, dry and oil the barrel and store the rifle muzzle down for a week or so to let all the excess oil drain out. I sent him home with a vile of 4F but told him his 3F would work just as well for priming.

Whew, that was a long narrative to emphasize one point, just a few of us know how to treat a B/P rifle properly, the rest of the population don't have a clue. As a newbie, be careful who you buy a used rifle from, I see a bunch of them for sale here that the owner says "great bore" but the bobber light pictures show the subtle signs of serious pitting.
Thanks for the well thought out reply, the anecdote and the advice. That's what worries me the most about buying used, but I can't justify the purchase of a new rifle.

I'd love a Kibler, but like the guys I this thread are saying, I think they're right. I should shoot lower first.
 
There is nothing wrong with Tc ,Lyman or Invest arms. Do some more shopping with this in mind. Consider buying a drop in bore light to inspect used guns.
I have found buying flintlocks outside PA are cheaper because of our flintlock only deer season.
 
Do a search on “borescope “. On this Forum….. You may want to consider one of these. Lot’s of them on fleabay.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3648.png
    IMG_3648.png
    859.9 KB
I just saw a CVA Kentucky Flintlock Kit listed on here for 350. It’s in .45 and that barrel is suppose to be accurate. Way under budget and you get to build one from the Butt Up! Hope this helps! Reds
 
I just saw a CVA Kentucky Flintlock Kit listed on here for 350. It’s in .45 and that barrel is suppose to be accurate. Way under budget and you get to build one from the Butt Up! Hope this helps! Reds
I saw that! If it were flintlock I'd have messaged the owner.
 
Back
Top