Howdy everyone. I'm a greenhorn to muzzleloading and have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone will have the patience to answer. I came across a .50 cal CVA that I picked up for just about $100. I need to know what kind of black powder to use and how much. Do I need a patch? I've seen some lubricants that say they are "patchless". What size roundball? What size caps? The guys at "Sportsman's Warehouse" were freindly but didn't instill a lot of confidence in regards to their muzzleloading knowledge so I thought I'd ask the forum. Thanks a heap! RK Smithy
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.50 cal CVA
- Thread starter RKSmithy
- Start date
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Welcome to the addiction (sport) of muzzleloading.
Yes you will need a patch, unless you are shooting R E A L or maxi bullets.
As far as the variations of powder, ball, patch and lube the variations are literately endless. That's what makes this sport so interesting.
My CVA 50 caplock likes a .490 ball with a .15 patch number 11 caps and 55 grains of Goex FFFG blackpowder. The patch lube I use is moose milk but have had just as good accuracy with pre-lubed Ox Yoke patches.
Yes you will need a patch, unless you are shooting R E A L or maxi bullets.
As far as the variations of powder, ball, patch and lube the variations are literately endless. That's what makes this sport so interesting.
My CVA 50 caplock likes a .490 ball with a .15 patch number 11 caps and 55 grains of Goex FFFG blackpowder. The patch lube I use is moose milk but have had just as good accuracy with pre-lubed Ox Yoke patches.
Welcome to muzzleloading! :hatsoff: You're gonna like this. 
Good idea to ask the guys here instead of the guys there...
You didn't say which model CVA or what you plan to use it for.
If you plan to use it for hunting I'd start with about 70 grains of powder and work up from there. For just target shooting I'd start at around 50 grains.
Either way, shoot a 5 shot group and then increase your load by 5 grains and shoot another group, etc. etc. etc. until you find the load your rifle likes best.
Try both 2F and 3F. Some rifles prefer one over the other.
A .490 ball will most likely suit your needs. A .495 ball is another option.
For round ball shooting you definitely need a patch. Start out with a .015 patch and see how they work. You might need a thicker or thinner patch. If the patch gets blown or burnt up try a thicker patch. If it's way too hard to load try a thinner patch. You should be able to find your patches on the ground about 10 yards +- out in front of where you shot from.
Lubes are many and varied. Store-bought, home-brewed, spit... I'd suggest to start with pre-lubed patches until you get the hang of everything else. Then buy patching material by the yard, tight weave 100% natural material measured with a caliper for thickness, and try different lubes. For target shooting spit is real handy, for hunting I use a grease type lube.
Most likely you will need #11 caps. If your gun was used I'd just go ahead and buy a new nipple or 3 now. Then you'll know for sure. My favorite are the Remington #11 caps. Others prefer CCI, Winchester, RWS, etc.
I highly recommend real blackpowder. It cleans up easy with water and is very reliable. I use Goex brand but you could try Kik, Grafs, Swiss, Shutzen, etc.
If all you can get is a substitute, that should work too.
Do NOT use any smokeless powder EVER in your muzzleloader!!!!
Have fun and shoot safe.
Good idea to ask the guys here instead of the guys there...
You didn't say which model CVA or what you plan to use it for.
If you plan to use it for hunting I'd start with about 70 grains of powder and work up from there. For just target shooting I'd start at around 50 grains.
Either way, shoot a 5 shot group and then increase your load by 5 grains and shoot another group, etc. etc. etc. until you find the load your rifle likes best.
Try both 2F and 3F. Some rifles prefer one over the other.
A .490 ball will most likely suit your needs. A .495 ball is another option.
For round ball shooting you definitely need a patch. Start out with a .015 patch and see how they work. You might need a thicker or thinner patch. If the patch gets blown or burnt up try a thicker patch. If it's way too hard to load try a thinner patch. You should be able to find your patches on the ground about 10 yards +- out in front of where you shot from.
Lubes are many and varied. Store-bought, home-brewed, spit... I'd suggest to start with pre-lubed patches until you get the hang of everything else. Then buy patching material by the yard, tight weave 100% natural material measured with a caliper for thickness, and try different lubes. For target shooting spit is real handy, for hunting I use a grease type lube.
Most likely you will need #11 caps. If your gun was used I'd just go ahead and buy a new nipple or 3 now. Then you'll know for sure. My favorite are the Remington #11 caps. Others prefer CCI, Winchester, RWS, etc.
I highly recommend real blackpowder. It cleans up easy with water and is very reliable. I use Goex brand but you could try Kik, Grafs, Swiss, Shutzen, etc.
If all you can get is a substitute, that should work too.
Do NOT use any smokeless powder EVER in your muzzleloader!!!!
Have fun and shoot safe.
galamb
58 Cal.
I'll throw my 2 cents in here - you may get alot of opinions and all are right and all are wrong depending which point of view you. But ultimately, all will give the same result - the rifle will go boom and your projectile will go down range and hit something - "how well" is where the differing opinions start :wink:
If I can get real black powder I absolutely will shoot that. There is a (general) rule of thumb that with a 50 cal you would use 2F. I myself shoot 3F in my 50, 45, and 40 cal - just saves me keeping different grades of powder.
3F burns a little faster with a little more pressure than 2F (for any given charge size). Your rifle may "like" one size over the other, but starting with "either" will get you shooting - you can tweak things later on (that's the fun part).
If you can't get real black then you can shoot Pyrodex. It comes basically as RS (rifle/shotgun) = 2F, Select (another 2F of supposedly better quality) and P = 3F. I would go with RS if pyrodex is your only option.
There is also 777 - again in 2F and 3F versions. It is more powerful than other offerings so you would normally drop your "charge" by about 10 grains compared to other powders (so 75 gr of FFF would become 65 gr of 777 as an example).
You may see "pellets" - they are not meant for your rifle and I personally wouldn't experiment with them.
If you do have to (resort to) either Pyrodex or 777 (and 777 would be my "last resort"), you may want to obtain some CCI #11 Magnum caps. Pyrodex is a little tougher to ignite than real black and the mag caps give a little longer more consistent burn that can help ignite these powders (you can also use the Mags with regular black, I use them off/on with good results).
Working up a charge, patch thickness, ball size load can take a fair bit of time until you find what your rifle "likes best".
If you plan on hunting with this "soon" and your range/practice time will be limited you may want to give Hornady "PA Conicals" a try - they are a kinda half ball, half bullet that do not require a patch. They weigh more than a typical ball (come in at 220'ish grains) and they are pre-lubed. So powder, PA, ramrod, cap, shoot - it's just that easy...
They shoot nice and work well on deer...
If I can get real black powder I absolutely will shoot that. There is a (general) rule of thumb that with a 50 cal you would use 2F. I myself shoot 3F in my 50, 45, and 40 cal - just saves me keeping different grades of powder.
3F burns a little faster with a little more pressure than 2F (for any given charge size). Your rifle may "like" one size over the other, but starting with "either" will get you shooting - you can tweak things later on (that's the fun part).
If you can't get real black then you can shoot Pyrodex. It comes basically as RS (rifle/shotgun) = 2F, Select (another 2F of supposedly better quality) and P = 3F. I would go with RS if pyrodex is your only option.
There is also 777 - again in 2F and 3F versions. It is more powerful than other offerings so you would normally drop your "charge" by about 10 grains compared to other powders (so 75 gr of FFF would become 65 gr of 777 as an example).
You may see "pellets" - they are not meant for your rifle and I personally wouldn't experiment with them.
If you do have to (resort to) either Pyrodex or 777 (and 777 would be my "last resort"), you may want to obtain some CCI #11 Magnum caps. Pyrodex is a little tougher to ignite than real black and the mag caps give a little longer more consistent burn that can help ignite these powders (you can also use the Mags with regular black, I use them off/on with good results).
Working up a charge, patch thickness, ball size load can take a fair bit of time until you find what your rifle "likes best".
If you plan on hunting with this "soon" and your range/practice time will be limited you may want to give Hornady "PA Conicals" a try - they are a kinda half ball, half bullet that do not require a patch. They weigh more than a typical ball (come in at 220'ish grains) and they are pre-lubed. So powder, PA, ramrod, cap, shoot - it's just that easy...
They shoot nice and work well on deer...
I find that my .50's and my .54 all shoot better with 3F powder. I do get good shots with the 2F but the groups are better with the 3F.
I save the 2F for the smoothbores.
I save the 2F for the smoothbores.
While I only shoot Pyrodex, my .50 prefers Pyrodex P which is the equivalent of 3f. Each gun is a different, just gotta find what your gun likes and works best for you.
I have about 14 different side locks from .32-.58. they ALL have a different "right" load so enjoy your range time. "Once ya go black ya never go back" so start posting the centerfires on Craigs list now, you'll soon be needing the money for your next 5-6 muzzleloaders!
All above is good advise, only add I have is I buy patch material at fabric store by the yard, get a few different thicknesses to play with. You can cut strips and use a knife and a short starter or just cut squares (which is what I do cuz I always cut myself)
After all, smokeless is a passing fad....
All above is good advise, only add I have is I buy patch material at fabric store by the yard, get a few different thicknesses to play with. You can cut strips and use a knife and a short starter or just cut squares (which is what I do cuz I always cut myself)
After all, smokeless is a passing fad....
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Important safety information about your CVA rifle
Read very carefully then test your setup. DO NOT TIGHTEN SIDE LOCK SCREWS OR TANG BOLT TIGHTLY. If there is any tendency to come off half ****, are to bump off full ****, check the trigger plate inletting support.
Read very carefully then test your setup. DO NOT TIGHTEN SIDE LOCK SCREWS OR TANG BOLT TIGHTLY. If there is any tendency to come off half ****, are to bump off full ****, check the trigger plate inletting support.
