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.530/.535 hmm

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oomcurt

45 Cal.
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They tell me there is no such thing as a dumb question..ok..here goes :) I have a 54 cal renegade. Last week I went to the nearest store that has roundballs. Well, I wasn't paying the closest attention and got a box of .535's. Now, I have been using .530's with a .015 commercial patch. I have since went with some muslin from wally world that is probably about .010..all I know is it works and accuracy has not suffered, not that I am be any means a great shot to begin with. My question is since if one took .530 + .015 = .545 so....if I took a .535 and a .010 patch that gives me the same figure .545. Now....I would like to see how it fits...the only thing is...will the combo get stuck and will I have the devil of a time getting the ball out? Any ideas or comments? Along with that...last month I tried cutting patches at the muzzle with the same material I had been using to make pre cut patches. Accuracy went to hell in a handbasket. Any ideas as to if it was the cutting that did it? In my mind it should make no difference. The width of the material was the same in both cases. Any comments or replies will be appreciated.
 
If your Renegade loaded easily with .530 ball and .015 patch,then it shouldn't be too difficult to load with .535 ball and .010 patch. That thin of a patch may work for target loads, but I question it will hold up to heavier hunting loads :hmm: Try it and see.
 
The .535+.010 combo will fit, but it will be a little tighter. You are not going to have to pound on the starter or anything, but it's going to take just a little more pressure to load.

I've shot both the .530+.015 and the .535+.010 combo in my .54 and that was my experience. The .530+.015 can be thumb started and pushed down without the short starter (though I use it anyway). The .535+.015 needs that short starter to get things going.

While the .545 overall diameter of the two combos is the same, one of them is composed of more easily 'squished' patch that goes into the rifling, while the other puts the extra into the less flexible lead ball that stays up on the lands.
 
Ah, but that patch is AROUND the ball, so the diameter is 0.015" + 0.530" + 0.015" = 0.560" The larger ball, smaller patch is 0.010" + 0.535" + 0.010" = 0.555"

Not that it makes a big difference. Your gun may prefer one over the other, or not.

I only ever tried 0.535" balls years ago and I didn't have but 0.018" patching. It was way too hard to load, but shot great.
 
Stumpkiller said:
Ah, but that patch is AROUND the ball, so the diameter is 0.015" + 0.530" + 0.015" = 0.560" The larger ball, smaller patch is 0.010" + 0.535" + 0.010" = 0.555"

Not that it makes a big difference. Your gun may prefer one over the other, or not.

I only ever tried 0.535" balls years ago and I didn't have but 0.018" patching. It was way too hard to load, but shot great.

This raises another question. Has anyone ever loaded more accurate a tighter/harder loading ball-patch combo for their first hunting shot, then carried "looser" easier loading ball-patch combo for a possible needed follow up shot?
 
A harder loading first shot hunting combination with a easier loading combination for a followup shot. That's a good question and you will find that several of us do just that. I myself when carrying a .50 use a .495 for the first shot and carry half a loading block of .490 for the second shot if needed quick. It takes the short starter out of the loading secquence. If the shot was good and a followup not necessary the other half of the block is .495's
Fox :thumbsup:
 
Bald Mtn Man said:
This raises another question. Has anyone ever loaded more accurate a tighter/harder loading ball-patch combo for their first hunting shot, then carried "looser" easier loading ball-patch combo for a possible needed follow up shot?


Yes. I have a three hole block on my pouch strap. I keep the lowest one loaded with a .530" ball and an 0.010" patch that I can ram home in two movements of the rammer, including the first 12" push out of the block and down into the bore, moving my hand up the rammer and seating the ball with the block still pinned at the muzzle by the rammer. I've been shooting 0.018" as my regular patch.

Horn2.jpg


In practice, however, the deer is either down for the count, so I don't need the second shot, or gone from my sight, so I have plenty of time and need to wait 15 or 20 minutes anyway (or, I am told, even longer for the never-going-to-happen-to-me occurance of the unlikely gut shot. ahem :shake:). It's good to have a plan for a flopping and struggling deer, in any case. I've known guys to rush in and slit their throats, but I'm in no burning hurry to catch a hoof in the chops or shin. It's worth the effort in the event a mercy shot is needed.

It's also fun sometimes to load all three holes thin to see just how fast I can peal four shots off with the flinter. Firing as soon as the gun is mounted and loading fast. The thin patch means I don't have to put my hand over the rammer . . . which, of course, none of us ever does at any time, anyhow. :redface:
 
Thanks all who responded... Well, I went and used a strip of the patching I was talking about..and Stumpkiller was right..it did slide down the barrel easier. However...I used the strip of patching as a means or retrieving the ball and seeing the rifling marks on it. Er...ah...the patching tore right at the muzzle..so..I pushed the ball all the way down the barrel and then had the fun of using a extractor to remove the ball. Oddly enough the patching stayed with the ball completely enveloping it...came out sort of like a cocoon. In regards to the patch standing up to a heavy load..I don't see why it shouldn't. I mean a .015, or a .010 patch is not the thickest or most robust thing in the world to begin with. If one works..so should the other. Imo.
 
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