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A COMMON PROBLEM

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Joined
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A COMMON PROBLEM
I have so many instances of good guys coming to me for advice on what size ball to use with a new rifle and I have come to think of it as the Half Caliber Question
You have a .50 rifle and the choice of the 490 ball or the .495 ball, or the choice of .53 ball and the .535 ball. etc.
I have come to believe that the wise choice is to go that half caliber heavier ball.
When you choose the smaller of the two you will be relying more on the cloth of the shooting patch to engage the rifling than with the slightly heavier ball that use more of the lead and less of the patch materialto keep the ball nicely engaged in the rifling.
Quite a few attempt to work up loads using both sized balls but keeping them separate would be a problem.
Its a matter of your choice and both sizes can work well with the minor adjustments necessary.
Dutch Schoultz
 
Best fitted to bore max. Patch thickness more determined by groove depth to insure gas seal. Regardless of ball dia patch thickness needs to obtain proper compression against ball and bore. The compression should be sufficient to put an impression of the fabric on a pure lead ball while the starting pressure is a firm but none bruising palm strike. A bevel crown eases this while still producing the proper compression plus helps keep patch tearing from occurring.
Also regardless of groove depth the compression of a thicker patch in the groove is more solid plus thicker patch has less tendency to tearing.
 
On advice I bought a .535 mold for my GPR. First ball I loaded was hard to seat. Without swabbing second ball was much harder. I got the third ball loaded and concluded I had made a mistake. Looking at patches showed cutting by rifling. .530 mold was ordered. Sweet. Loading is firm an makes for an accurate shot.
Dave
 
If memory is correct I have only one mold that throws an extra "half caliber"; that is my single cavity Lyman .445" mold. It's not perfectly uniform and measurements from various positions range from .445" to .443". It loads as easily as the .440" and velocity is virtually identical. I'm unable to detect any difference in accuracy; but then, I'm far from the world's greatest shot.
 
On advice I bought a .535 mold for my GPR. First ball I loaded was hard to seat. Without swabbing second ball was much harder. I got the third ball loaded and concluded I had made a mistake. Looking at patches showed cutting by rifling. .530 mold was ordered. Sweet. Loading is firm an makes for an accurate shot.
Dave
My experience exactly. Except fortunately I didn't buy a .535 mold
 
Best fitted to bore max. Patch thickness more determined by groove depth to insure gas seal. Regardless of ball dia patch thickness needs to obtain proper compression against ball and bore. The compression should be sufficient to put an impression of the fabric on a pure lead ball while the starting pressure is a firm but none bruising palm strike. A bevel crown eases this while still producing the proper compression plus helps keep patch tearing from occurring.
Also regardless of groove depth the compression of a thicker patch in the groove is more solid plus thicker patch has less tendency to tearing.
AN ABSOLUTRLY PERFECT POST BY BANG
IN A WAY, THE SHOOTING PATCH PERFORMS MUCH LIKE THE PISTON RINGS IN YOUR VEHICLE.
DUTCH
 
On advice I bought a .535 mold for my GPR. First ball I loaded was hard to seat. Without swabbing second ball was much harder. I got the third ball loaded and concluded I had made a mistake. Looking at patches showed cutting by rifling. .530 mold was ordered. Sweet. Loading is firm an makes for an accurate shot.
Dave
DAVE, DID YOU ADJUST YOUR PATCHING FOR THE .535 BALL ?
DUTCH
 
Dutch, I couldn't even start the ball with what I though was reasonable force with ticking. My wife is a quilter so I had plenty to choose from, so for the .535 I used something that seemed a little thicker than a bed sheet, still took a lot to get it seated. I think if I shoot enough the .535 may be needed. Plan for the future.
Dave
 
The only rifle I've tried the half caliber with is my TC Hawken. It shoots way better with a .490 ball and 20 thousandth patch than with a .495 ball and thinner patch. As has been said many times each BP gun is different.
 
Dutch, I couldn't even start the ball with what I though was reasonable force with ticking. My wife is a quilter so I had plenty to choose from, so for the .535 I used something that seemed a little thicker than a bed sheet, still took a lot to get it seated. I think if I shoot enough the .535 may be needed. Plan for the future.
Dave
PEOPLE WHO HAVE TROUBLE WITH THE HALF CALIBER HEAVIER BALL HAVE BARREL THAT IS JUST TOO SMALL.
SEE MY THREAD ON TOLERANCES
IF THE PATCHING THAT WORKED SO WELL FOR THE SLIGHTLY SMALLER BALL WAS WRETCHED WITH THE HALF CALIBER HEAVIER BALL, WHAT DID YOU WXPECT?

IF THE TOLERANCES INVOLVED IN RIFLING YOUR BARREL WERE ON THE HEAVIER SIDE THEN THE HALF CALIBER BALL WILL PERFORM.
IF THE TOLERANCES WERE ON THE NARROWER SIZE THE HALF CALIBER IS NOT FOR YOU.
DUTCH
 
Coincidence.............I noticed over the last 18 months I'm pouring and shooting the half sizes. My preference. And with .18 ticking. Nice snappy loads.
HI, Ames You are new to me.
If a barrel was made just a tad larger you can use the half caliber ball. If it was just a tad smaller the half caliber ball is probably not for you.
I'm glad you are doing well with the very slightly larger ball.
Dutch Schoultz
 
My experience exactly. Except fortunately I didn't buy a .535 mold
Until you know whether the tolerances favor the half caliber ball you should experiment with the larger ball well before you buy a mold., particularly a steel one as they are very expensive.
I was always told the Lee molds, being aluminum heat up and cool down more rapidly than the steel molds require the ball caster to work as rapidly as he can to keep that mold the same size. It will increase in size as it heats up and shrink as it cools down.
I'm glad to hear they, the Lee, has a very small sprue and general good reviews. 30 years ago I could afford a Lyman steel mold which are quite slow to heat up. I used to cast 30 or balls and pitch hem back in the pot before I began to keep the later balls for shooting.
Dutch Schoultz
 
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