A few simple Renegade re-do questions.

[BJC]

I am going to take a newly acquired T/C Renegade in .54 cal and make it to how I would like it.

I am going to take it all apart and do some stuff to it.

First I am going to sand the finish off the wood and re-do it to how I want it.

First I will sand off the finish and then apply many coats of BLO and then put a red stain over the top, kind of like the Pedersoli Traditional Hawken.

What grits of sand paper should I use so I don't sand too much off. I just want to remove the finish and the put a nice smooth finish on it.

Next I want to brown the barrel. What is a good brown to use and will it work on the ramrod loops also.

I am just going to make me a leather sling that fits over the but pad so I don't have to mess with it.

Any other things I should do to make it look nicer?

I wish I could make it a flint lock but that is just too much.

I am also going to add traditional sights when I find some.

Has somebody already done this and if so is there any pictures?

 

[brassell31]

I own several Renegades. The first one I bought I restocked with maple from a Track of the Wolf replacement stock because I was not happy with the looks of the factory stock. I used iron furniture, from TOW also, that was more true to the original Hawken. The others I left stock except for the addition of a soft recoil pad. The recoil from a .54 maxi ball gets your attention. A slip on pad goes on the iron butt plate of my Hawken "replica". I gave the other Renegades to my grown sons so they would go muzzle hunting with me and help haul meat! That's worked for about 20 years now. But I digress. The Renegade stock is made of Walnut with a clear finish, but I don't what the finish is. I would try some paint remover first to remove the original finish, then sand. I would start with 100-120 grit, and then move up to the finer grades step by step, up to 220 grit or so. There's a temptation to skip grits, but you will end spending more effort if you do. Some people like to go up to 320 grit or finer, just depends on what you will be satisfied with. Always sand with the grain. Use a sanding block on the flat surfaces to keep from rounding off the transitions to curved surfaces. Keep in mind how much you take off around inletted areas, like the lock. You probably won't have to sand very far down since the walnut is not stained. If you are set on staining your stock, stain before oiling the stock, the wood will not accept stain once the pores are filled up with BLO. There is a product called Tru Oil that is linseed based that dries a little faster than BLO that gives the same end result. With multiple coats faster is better. I've used both cold brown and hot brown products with good results. The barrel and ramrod pipes are blued at the factory, which will need to be removed before you brown them. An quick internet search will give you several different ways to do that. The Renegade sight screws in to the barrel. TOW used to sell a primitive replacement sight that uses the same holes. I'm not going to try and post any pictures, that's above my ability with a computer. Good luck with your project. Be aware that it will just lead to others as your ability grows.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I am going to take a newly acquired T/C Renegade in .54 cal and make it to how I would like it.

I am going to take it all apart and do some stuff to it.

First I am going to sand the finish off the wood and re-do it to how I want it.

First I will sand off the finish and then apply many coats of BLO and then put a red stain over the top, kind of like the Pedersoli Traditional Hawken.

What grits of sand paper should I use so I don't sand too much off. I just want to remove the finish and the put a nice smooth finish on it.

Next I want to brown the barrel. What is a good brown to use and will it work on the ramrod loops also.

When you re-finish, try not to sand the finish off... Your going to end up removing wood were you don't want to (bad idea). Instead, use a wood stripper designed for the very purpose such as formbys wood stripper, follow the instructions.

Stain first, then finish, so again stain first then you can use your BLSO finish. Keep in mind, linseed often times never fully cures depending on your environmental conditions so it can be troublesome. I personally use BLSO and love it if used properly and patiently. Also you might want to consider using truoil for a first time re-finish. It's honestly bullet proof and it has a tried and true track record.

LMF browning agent is the best hands down for browning, again follow the instructions or the thread on the forum. It will also work on your ramrod pipes if they are steel, which I believe they should be.

Lastly, do not rush the process because it will show if you do. Patience, patience and more patience.

I'd recommend first before you even attempt to re-finish the rifle you purchase a good reference such as Recreating the American longrifle, this and many other items can be found on Track of The Wolf's website.