A strange 'modification' to a Parker-Hale rifle

[TFoley]

Firstly, I'd like to make it clear that this Parker-Hale rifle does NOT belong to me. Right now, it does not even belong to the hopeful owner, as it is a lot bought at auction, and, as such, is not actually in his hands as of today.

From the serial number he provided, it is from about 1986 or so, when P-H adopted the lazy man's method of sealing up the labyrinthine flash channels drilled from the bolster into the chamber by use of a screw, like this -

It has been mentioned here a few times that P-H did not intend it to be used as a method of cleaning through the flash hole, in spite of it looking as though it might be useful for that purpose.

My P-H Whitworth, some six years older, had the screwhead filed smooth and flush with the bolster - thusly -

This was the photograph sent to our unnamed acquaintance. - I have already noted my concern about it to the prospective owner, but I respect the vast source of wisdom and knowledge here far to much to go any further without hearing your collective thoughts.

Thank you.

 

[user 48679]

IMO, correct or not, it doesn't matter - just file the head of that buggered screw flush to the bolster & cold blue it.

 

[TFoley]

IMO, correct or not, it doesn't matter - just file the head of that buggered screw flush to the bolster & cold blue it.

It seems to be a modern hex-head machine screw, rather than the correct item - as such we cannot know how much of a thread there is holding it in place....hence my concern.

 

[ord sgt]

That is just sooo wrong. Some people's kids.......SMH

 

[TFoley]

Just in case this has somehow 'missed the boat', the other side of that screw is open to the full pressure of the explosion of up to 90gr of BP.

 

[Stantheman86]

I wouldn't buy that or trust it.

We don't know of someone twisted in a "close" thread match and called it good. The first thing I'd do is remove that and make sure the threads aren't horribly stripped.

Best case, the threads are intact and he can obtain the correct screw or have a gunsmith thread and fit a screw.

Worst case, the threads are destroyed and will have to be retapped.

Absolute worst case, he shoots it and that jim whacked hex head screw lets go and kills someone 2 lanes over.

 

[Enfield58]

I have a Parker-Hale Whitworth with the clean out screw. Without getting into the debate on whether or not to remove the screw, I'd like to find a replacement.

It's a little screw and, if I ever have to remove it, I am afraid of losing it. I've don't a lot of searches online, turning up nothing.

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement screw to have as a spare?

 

[Dude]

How could someone do that??? Boy is that ugly!

First question is whether the proper screw is Whitworth or not. Shouldn't be metric. I seem to recall a chart of the fasteners used on the Parker Hales.

You'll know if it's too long by removing the nipple. If it's not blocking the flash channel, just flush to the side, you're good.

You'll also know if it's the proper thread when you remove it. If it's very stiff it could be the wrong thread, or it could have had a thread locker sealing it. You'll see the old thread-locker on the threads as it comes out. If it was thread-locked, heating the allen head with a torch will break the bond.

Remove as much of the head of the fastener as possible, leaving enough to cinch it down. Better to grind it off before it's in place. Apply permanent red loctite and run it in. Then carefully file/grind it flush. Blue.

On the other hand, if it's really stuck and doesn't want to turn, and it's the right length - just grind down the head flush and blue. All done.

 

[TFoley]

I've had one WW rifle with, and my current rifle, with it fitted flush and hidden under the bluing - I' imagine that this was seen as a manufacturing unnecessary, taking time better spent on something else.

As I noted, it is not my rifle, nor is it yet in the hands of the new owner - paper-work must be done here in UK, even for an archaic design of muzzleloading single-shot rifle. It is a replica, therefore treated exactly like any other modern unmentionable.

Many thanks for your resplones - I'll pass them on and let him make up his own mind. In any event, he lives almost 500 miles away from me, so I don't think that I'm in any danger of a flying screw.

Whinemeal, I'll go looking via my own resources for proper screws, and post my results here accordingly.

 

[James C. Burnette]

Whitworth cap screws have been available for years. Back in 1961 I purchased a BSA twin, it came with phillips head screws around the primary chain cover and knowing I would be removing the cover frequently I did what any good american boy would do. I purchased whitworth allen head cap screws and replaced every phillips screw on the bike. So it is possible that the screw is the correct thread, but only removing it will tell.

 

[Brokenbear]

I am sure it cannot be but that screw color surely looks like aluminum ..it just can't be

Bear

 

[2 shots]

doesnt seem to be anything that cant be fixed. drill and retap as needed

 

[TFoley]

Many thanks again, from the about-to-be-owner of this rifle, who, you might have guessed is a very recent arrival to our site. He expressly wrote me this very morning and asked me to pass on his grateful thanks, and now awaits the attention of his local gunsmith.

For BrokenBear - it appears to be cadmium-plated, commonly used where resistance to corrosion is paramount, like deck fittings.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Doubt it's Cadmium. Been off limits for years. A "BIT" Carsonogenic..
Could be Zinc or Hard chrome. (The nipple protector chain is one we made for P/H.

 

[Dude]

Probably zinc plated. There are two colors of zinc plating, silver and gold. I don't know if you'll find Cadmium plating anywhere these days.

 

[Whitworth]

That's an Italian Parker Hale judging by the lock and marking IMHO. None of my 3 real Parker Hales show any signs of filed and blued bolster screws. My Franken Hale Whitworth does have a "clean out screw". YMMV

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Doubt it's Cadmium. Been off limits for years. A "BIT" Carsonogenic..
Could be Zinc or Hard chrome. (The nipple protector chain is one we made for P/H.

Forgot Electroless Nickel. used where Extreme corroion resistance is needed.Nuclear,Salt water,Acid resistanse. Gold "colour" passivation on Zn.Plating is purely cosmetic..

 

[EC121]

Just in case this has somehow 'missed the boat', the other side of that screw is open to the full pressure of the explosion of up to 90gr of BP.

As a side note, because pressure is measured in pressure on area(PSI), the screw is only exposed to a fraction of the the total pressure equal to its fractional area of one square inch.

 

[TFoley]

Serious question for you, Sir. Would YOU stand on the right of this rifle when it is fired? I remember reading about a worn-out nipple blowing the hammer back with sufficient force to break in in two pieces and embed it in the shooter's forehead.

The hole through the nipple is about the same diameter as the flash channel.

 

[TFoley]

That's an Italian Parker Hale judging by the lock and marking IMHO. None of my 3 real Parker Hales show any signs of filed and blued bolster screws. My Franken Hale Whitworth does have a "clean out screw". YMMV

THIS is my genuine, serial-number 888 Parker-Hale Whitworth rifle from 1986 - brought from the factory by Roger Hale and delivered to Ron May of London [Gunsmiths].

The OP's rifle is very slightly newer than mine, by a couple of years, but it still a genuine Parker-Hale rifle.
THIS is a slightly newer Musketoon, also a genuine Parker-Hale rifle -

This is my latest P-Hale Whitworth rifle - serial #420, from 1980.

Crown over BP - Birmingham Proof

LHS of barrel -

Under-barrel proof marks.