about birch wood case plum brown

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does this stuff really work? if so how do you apply it do you use the instructions or is there a better way to get the nice dark brown/black?
 
Use the instructions.

This is a hot metal process and the temperature of the metal is very important. That is perhaps the only thing that makes using BC Plum Brown difficult.

You also must have the metal spotlessly clean. Any oil (like from your hands) will cause problems.
I use the Latex Doctors type gloves that are available from the drug store to prevent my oily skin from contaminating the surface.

The process usually takes at least 3 coats to get it to look uniformly colored.

BC PB works best if the metal is heated to 260-280 degrees F.
Hotter than that will cause spatters and a mottled look.
Cooler than that will cause it to lay down a layer of Copper on the surface. If this happens, it must be sanded off. It will not "take" any more browning.

I use the little swabs on a twisted metal "handle" to apply the solution.
Do this OUTSIDE! It gives off fumes that are bad for your lungs and body.

After degreasing the barrel, heat it with a propane torch (unless you have a oven which is large enough to hole the barrel). I use my mothers old spit to the finger test to see if it's hot enough. (hopefully your mother tought you this. Lick your finger and touch it to the metal. If it burns you, it's not hot enough. If the spit goes fzzzttt and doesn't burn you it is hot enough).
Quickly apply the solution swabbing all areas that you are sure are at about the same temperature.
Heat the adjacent area and apply the solution repeating this process until the barrel is coated.
Then wash the crusty stuff off of the metal, rub it down with a clean oil free rag (I use paper towels).
Then start the process all over again.
Before moving to the next step, you might want to apply a 4th coat to really even it out. Once the next step is started, it's very difficult to go back.

When your satisfied it is evenly coated, after the final washing, re-heat the barrel and apply a generous coating of linseed oil. Sit the barrel in a corner and leave it alone for at least 12 hours. 24 is better.
Then rub off the excess linseed oil.

Note: Before you apply the oil and let it "rest" it will not be dark brown but after the overnite resting it will darken quite a lot.

IMO, this is great stuff for use on small items like lock plates, trigger guards, butt plates etc. It is sometimes hard to get a nice even coating on large items like rifle barrels because it is hard to heat them evenly.
:results:
 
I concur but use a slightly different technique. I sand blast the whole surface to be browned and suspend the part between centers or on a wire. I use an old T-shirt for a swab and wear heavy blue latex gloves like the type sold for staining. They have a cloth back so they breathe and have knobby palms and finger pads. I use an acetylene torch because I don't have to soak the barrel so long as propane but be careful not to stay too long in one place. I soak the T-shirt and start swabbing until the barrel is cool enough not to take the solution. I then reheat without cleaning and do it all over again. It looks really bad as you reheat because the wet solution turns all manner of nasty colors but it will brown out evenly if the T-shirt is soaked and kept moving. When the part is cool, I soak some steel wool in solution and scrub the surface. I have been able to get a barrel almost black using this method in 3 applications but it does still darken after a few days. I use motor oil as a coating afterward - WD40 seems to occasionally take some of the color out.
 
is there a better way to get the nice dark brown/black?

Buy some LMF browning solution. Its fool proof.... something I have proven on more than one occasion :shocking:
 
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