? about browning barrels naturally

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I scrapped the idea of putting another barrel in my smoothbore and just went ahead and bought a used smoothbore fowler from a good friend. I am in the process of refinishing the stock. the hardware and lock are already browned,( it is a used gun) the barrel however is new. I have seen some nice looking guns on here with barrels that have been left alone to age naturally. I have hot rusted one with plum brown and didnt really care for my results. it was not too consistent (most likely my fault) What is the normal procedure for letting one age naturally?

I noticed that my guns always show rust when I leave them in the tent when camping. Could I just leave it sitting in the bathroom inside next to the shower, if I oiled the bore real good and had no oil on the outside of the barrel? Maybe even plug the touchhole and bore with an oil soaked paper towel.
 
First off, IMO, Birchwood Casey Plum Brown is great for small parts but it usually takes at least 4 applications to get an even looking coat on large parts like a barrel.
That's why I quit using it for large parts.

Letting your barrel brown naturally is going to give it a mottled very uneven brown.
It will look like a gun that was not cared for, for many years. A lot of folks like that look.

You can also coat the barrel with Naval Jelly and let it sit for a dull gray somewhat frosted look.

IMO, the better thing to do is to spend $6-$10 for a bottle of Laurel Mountain browning solution.
Apply it very lightly but evenly and sit the barrel in the bathroom with the shower running on hot. After a few minutes, turn the shower off, close the door and wait 3-5 hours.
Then repeat this 4 or 5 times, rubbing off the loose rust with some course cloth like denim before applying the next coat.

You soon will have a evenly browned barrel that looks great.
 
Supercracker said:
Has anyone tried Mark Lee Express Brown?

I got a bottle of it for my current project but have not tried it yet.

Could you maybe mean Mike Lea (Cincinatti, OH.) He is making the Wakhon Bay formula called TruBrown. Works great, I have used a lot of it.
 
T.O. said:
What is the normal procedure for letting one age naturally?
Let it age naturally....
I will wipe my barrel with a greased patch to knock back the rust spots, but go through no other special treatment. By no means is the barrel mistreated or left rusty for any reason.
 
Browning is simply controled rusting. I have had the best results pluging the bore well, placing the barrel in a piece of pvc pipe and filling the pipe with coco cola. (Things do go better with coke!) The carbonic acid and cororing in the coke does an excellant job and two liters of coke is really quite cheap! :idunno: :idunno:
 
Here's the easiest, and cheapest way, and very H.C. Drive to Shipshewanna Indiana on a Friday. Plug and degrease your barrel, and bury it. Pick it up on Sunday afternoon. , and neutralize with ammonia, or baking soda. You are good to go! While you wait, lots of good places to visit, stay, and eat. It's behind Yoder's general store, and across from the auction.

Picture031.jpg


Or, you might want to try Mike Lea's "Wakon Bay Browning solution" It's a cold process and works great. Bring a couple of burlap bags, and take home some free fertilizer.



Bill


:) :)
 
Urine is natural and free. The bathroom would be appropriate for this method. :shocked2:
Really is an historically correct method for browning. How do you think the Brown Bess got it's moniker? There were issued in the white. Redcoats were not able to order from the internet while in the field. :wink:
 
i appreciate the tips, I guess spent you just use dirty patches like the ones you use to tarnish brass. I tried 2 layers of yellow mustard, I only got an medium dark gray. I will probably just leave it at that for now, since it took the new look off. The coke sounds interesting though, If it didnt work I could drink the rest and then try urine
 
B/C plum Brown needs to be applied to metal that has been heated to about 280 degrees F. This is higher than the boiling point of water( 212 F.) but far below the temperature steel needs for tempering, much less hardening.

I hang barrels from the tang using a coat hanger thru the tang bolt hole. Then I heat from the bottom up. I apply the Plum Brown using Cotton Swabs, balls, or even q-tips, depending on the size of the metal piece to be browned. SLOP IT ON. As you finish with the muzzle, raise your torch up and heat up the next 6-8" section- which already has a head start when you heated the section below it.

The PB will sizzle and steam- and you want plenty of fresh air, and some kind of breeze- natural, or from a fan blowing the fumes away from your nose and face. Wear eye protection, and wear at least one of those light, styrofoam mouth protectors.

Wear some kind of glove to protect your hands from the acid. I put newspaper on the floor of the garage to catch the drips- and there are drips as I put more and more solution on the barrel as I go up from the muzzle to the tang.

I don't worry about my coat hanger, BTW. I don't prep it to receive brown solution, I don't degrease it or remove fingerprints from it. If it browns, fine. If it doesn't, fine, too.

Let the barrel cool, and when you can touch it with both hands, take it out into natural light to check all the surface to be sure you have covered it all. If not, take it back in, heat it up and cover those missed spot.

I got a nice chocolate Brown color using Plum Brown. After washing off the yellow/white scum, under the kitchen faucet, and using liquid dish soap to help clean off any fingerprints, I dry the metal, and then take it back out to the coat hanger. Once hung, I heat it up again- this time with long sweeps to heat the entire barrel(s)--- and then I spray it with WD40 and let the oil sizzle, and burn, and smoke. Until the barrel cools enough that the oil sits on the metal wet.

I found that by "burning" oil into the heated metal, it helps SET the color of the Brown, and Darkens it somewhat.

The Brown I have on my Dbl. shotgun has proven very durable, resists scratches in the field well-- better than any blued barrels I have---- and the color has remained that wonderful Hersey's chocolate brown now for more than 30 years.

The best part about heating the barrel FIRST, is that the browning solution works instantly when its applied, and there is NO wait time to determine what color brown you have, as with the room temperature products.

There is NOTHING wrong with the finish you get from the "Cold" brown solutions. It just takes more time to get there.

I think using Ammonia to neutralize acids is much faster than using Baking Soda. Have done both, and the processes have been adequately described above by other members. They both work, when used properly. Ammonia is pretty darn cheap.
 

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