roosterf106
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2013
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I just joined this forum, and found that a running discussion on Green Mountain barrels was done last summer.
I would like to...at this late date...give my two cents worth:
I have been all around the horn with the Green Mountain barrels”¦I think I can add something here:
I have two .58 cal rifles, one 36 inch, the other a 42 inch, and a 36 inch .50 barrel, cut down from a 42 inch and re-crowned.
I found the finish on the outside required a lot of polishing to get it right for browning.
I am a flintlock nut”¦rifles are all original design, built by me, and flintlocks only.
My barrels are slow twist for PRB’s. Here’s what I recommend for one hole accuracy:
1) Use Mink Oil lubricant”¦stays the same consistency in hot or cold weather.
2) Use only 100% linen patches, they are a lot stronger than cotton, and though they shred a little, they are tougher. You can buy it by the yard, cheap, online on eBay”¦order “medium weight”, that is about .015-.018 inch thickness.
3) When you get the barrel”¦new”¦leave the breechplug out, and take a rifle cleaning brush, wrap it in steel wool (fine) so its tight in the bore and work it up and down the barrel 100 times. I know”¦gasp!...steel wool? Green Mountain barrels have very sharp rifling and patch shredding is the cause of a lack of accuracy. It took me over 200 fired rounds in my 36” barrel to have the barrel “settle down”. The 42 inch was steel-wooled, and shot three shot groups into one hole at 50 yards after a mere 20 rounds. The .50 cal was used so much at first that I simply broke it in with prolonged use. I used a thick fiber wad over the powder, thinking that the problem in shredding was with gas cutting from the powder explosion, but this made no difference. I am convinced that sharp rifling was the issue.
4) Clean the barrel after every shot with windshield washer fluid. It will not freeze in cold weather (windex will clean it well, but freezes) and scours all the crud out with no mess. Works unbelievably well. Cleaning after each shot will give better accuracy, but doing this after every third shot is acceptable, for me anyways.
5) Both of these .58 barrels now shoot one ragged hole for three shots at 50 yards with a nice, hot load of .570 round ball at 1650 fps (chronographed). That will knock the socks off anything that walks, and gives great accuracy, which is the name of the game. The .50 shoots one inch at 50 yards with a .495 ball at 1640 fps, but it’s an old gun. My accuracy at 100 yards is tepid at best, due to 64 year old eyes, but still all of these guns shoot 2 MOA if the light is right. Tom Fuller English black flints, Goex powder and double set triggers will cut down on ignition time, and this will tighten groups.
I hope these tips help. I am noticing that Green Mountain barrels are getting hard to come by”¦not sure why. But they are tack drivers if broken in properly. If Green Mountain barrels are out of supply in my calibers, I may try Colerain. Anyone have any info on Colerain from experience?
Best wishes,
Roosterf106
I would like to...at this late date...give my two cents worth:
I have been all around the horn with the Green Mountain barrels”¦I think I can add something here:
I have two .58 cal rifles, one 36 inch, the other a 42 inch, and a 36 inch .50 barrel, cut down from a 42 inch and re-crowned.
I found the finish on the outside required a lot of polishing to get it right for browning.
I am a flintlock nut”¦rifles are all original design, built by me, and flintlocks only.
My barrels are slow twist for PRB’s. Here’s what I recommend for one hole accuracy:
1) Use Mink Oil lubricant”¦stays the same consistency in hot or cold weather.
2) Use only 100% linen patches, they are a lot stronger than cotton, and though they shred a little, they are tougher. You can buy it by the yard, cheap, online on eBay”¦order “medium weight”, that is about .015-.018 inch thickness.
3) When you get the barrel”¦new”¦leave the breechplug out, and take a rifle cleaning brush, wrap it in steel wool (fine) so its tight in the bore and work it up and down the barrel 100 times. I know”¦gasp!...steel wool? Green Mountain barrels have very sharp rifling and patch shredding is the cause of a lack of accuracy. It took me over 200 fired rounds in my 36” barrel to have the barrel “settle down”. The 42 inch was steel-wooled, and shot three shot groups into one hole at 50 yards after a mere 20 rounds. The .50 cal was used so much at first that I simply broke it in with prolonged use. I used a thick fiber wad over the powder, thinking that the problem in shredding was with gas cutting from the powder explosion, but this made no difference. I am convinced that sharp rifling was the issue.
4) Clean the barrel after every shot with windshield washer fluid. It will not freeze in cold weather (windex will clean it well, but freezes) and scours all the crud out with no mess. Works unbelievably well. Cleaning after each shot will give better accuracy, but doing this after every third shot is acceptable, for me anyways.
5) Both of these .58 barrels now shoot one ragged hole for three shots at 50 yards with a nice, hot load of .570 round ball at 1650 fps (chronographed). That will knock the socks off anything that walks, and gives great accuracy, which is the name of the game. The .50 shoots one inch at 50 yards with a .495 ball at 1640 fps, but it’s an old gun. My accuracy at 100 yards is tepid at best, due to 64 year old eyes, but still all of these guns shoot 2 MOA if the light is right. Tom Fuller English black flints, Goex powder and double set triggers will cut down on ignition time, and this will tighten groups.
I hope these tips help. I am noticing that Green Mountain barrels are getting hard to come by”¦not sure why. But they are tack drivers if broken in properly. If Green Mountain barrels are out of supply in my calibers, I may try Colerain. Anyone have any info on Colerain from experience?
Best wishes,
Roosterf106
