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AFRIADY CAT?

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I recently bought a .45 bronze bore brush for my .45 percussion. I wanted to scrub out the barrel prior to the soap and water treatment. As I started to use it, I noticed that it fit really tight into the barrel. Knowing that those bristles need to change direction in order to pull it back out, I was afraid to use it; even though it would have been perfect to clean out the barrel. So, was I "afriady cat" or should I have used it? Is there another kind, maybe nylon, bore brush out there that would do the trick and not get stuck?

Thank you.
 
I push the brush until it comes out of the barrel(s) before reversing the stroke - which avoids bristle breakage.
 
Give it a turn clockwise (tightens the thread) and pull it out. Turns the bristles 90 degrees to rod and it pulls out easy.
 
When it comes to my muzzleloaders, I avoid using a brush like the plague.
The only thing a brush will do is to get down into the corners of the rifling to clean them. IMO, if a lot of soapy water is used to clean the bore, a tight fitting cleaning patch on a jag will do as well and there isn't any chance of the jag getting stuck.
 
When it comes to my muzzleloaders, I avoid using a brush like the plague.
The only thing a brush will do is to get down into the corners of the rifling to clean them. IMO, if a lot of soapy water is used to clean the bore, a tight fitting cleaning patch on a jag will do as well and there isn't any chance of the jag getting stuck.
I use brass bristle brushes for two things, one is to have on hand in case I need to remove any surface rust in the barrel, has happened on two occasions. The second was cleaning my Civ War Enfield and Cook & Brothers after live firing to make sure no lead was left in the groves. Having little pieces of lead going down range when one is reenacting can be bad thing...........
 
I use a .50 cal brush in my .50 cal....just hitch up the horses to pull it out, works every time... :)
SO now that I have bought just about everything else, now I have to buy a horse??? :dunno: But I do know what you mean. I got a patch stuck on my jag halfway of pulling it out and I couldn't budge it. I even hooked it to the automatic garage door handle to pull the thing out and it still didn't budge, Wound up bracing the front of the barrel vertically on a wooden edge of a 2X4 and banged the handle of my range rod down maybe 10 times with a hammer. It finally came out but my RR handle looks pretty beaten up. I have been using 2-1/2" patches for cleaning but now I am going to try a 2-1/4" size. Seems like that the first 2 patches I use to dry the barrel when it's wet are a bear to pull back out. Thanks RR
 
I push the brush until it comes out of the barrel(s) before reversing the stroke - which avoids bristle breakage.
that is why I only use NYLON brushes, they will reverse when you pull them back out. I have had brass bristle brushes jam on the reverse back stroke.
 
Seems like that the first 2 patches I use to dry the barrel when it's wet are a bear to pull back out. Thanks RR

They shouldn't be. I'd question the type of jag you are using.

Eventually, you will stick a brush or have one break off. I too avoid brushes like the plague.
Instead if i have something that needs brushing, I cut a small piece of copper chore boy and shape it into a small patch. I then run that down the barrel. it removes fouling, lead, etc. better than a brush IMO.

Just make sure you use a tapered shank jag with steel threads.

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Your, @Stubert, statement that all 50 caliber barrels, or for that matter any bore size, are not the same bore size is too true. The difference in bore sizes and groove depth is the reason I really promote having a digital caliper. Inexpensive ones can be found and they have acceptable accuracy. I use a $20 set from Harbor Freight and the readings are very close to my machinist grade Mitutoyo Vernier Calipers.

While the theory of using a brass brush that will remove fouling and lead from all the edges of the grooves is very good, in practice, brass brushes can get stuck in barrels and because of the bristles, the brushes can't be shot out. You need the brushes to be slightly under sized and still have the wire looped through the brush's shank rather than pressed in.
 
Some patch materials seem more prone to sticking than others too.
Mainly dry patches in a fouled bore.

When wiping a fouled bore, the patch should be damp. Because fouling can be pushed into the breech or flash channel, the jag size should be altered to slide a damp patch over the fouling and bunch up and remove fouling when the patch is withdrawn.
 
Mainly dry patches in a fouled bore.

When wiping a fouled bore, the patch should be damp. Because fouling can be pushed into the breech or flash channel, the jag size should be altered to slide a damp patch over the fouling and bunch up and remove fouling when the patch is withdrawn.

Which is perplexing on why the OP is having trouble with wet patches sticking.
 
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