I have finished putting togather a GPR kit I got from Midsouth about a month ago. I am not an artist and didnt attempt any thing other than just putting togather a good smoke pole that looks pretty good and above all shoots good.
When the kit arrived the first thing I did was put the barell and tang togather and tryed it in the stock. Well just like several other folks that put one of these kits togather it looked like the releif for the tang was about a quater inch to long. Well I went on and put the lock in the stock to see if it was going to fit good .It was a nice snug fit......Great! While it was in I set the barell and tang back in and the bolster did not line up with the cut out in the lock so I started filing on the stock and took off enough wood that the bolster fit good into the cut out in the lock..and guess what? That allowed the tang to slide all the way back in its recess. No gap. I took out a little wood under the lock and that brought the lock up snug to the barell.
I left the entrance thimble and end cap on the stock and mounted the butt plate and toe plate and started trying to shape the stock......that took a while because iI didnt really know what I was looking for. I knew that I wanted the belly off the stock and forearm and lots of wood off to make it look slimer so with that in mind I went at it.A couple hours every evening for about a week and I arrived at what I thought I could live with. Basicly I used the furniture as a guide to remove the wood.
Next I jumped on the furniture and filed all the casting lines and marks off and sanded it as smooth as I could get it with 220 grit emery cloth.
Next came the barell....I had been dreading that because I never did any draw filing so, I watched the video from Midway USA on utube, went to lowes and got a 10 inch mill file and started on the barell. It goes pretty fast. I removed all the writeing on the barell includeing the serial number. A buddy of mine had a set of metal stamps and we put the serial number and calibur on the bottom flat of the barell. After I finished draw fileing I wraped emery cloth around the file and worked on each flat untill it was as smooth as I could get it with 220 grit.
Next was browning . I browned all the metal. I used Plum brown and that required me to heat the metal,I started on the smaller parts because I had not did this before.I used a propane tourch to heat the metal up to the point that water would sizzle when it was droped on the metal.The instructions said that was about 275 degrees.Then I had a swab ready with the plumb brown and just slaped it on and kept rubbing untill it quit sizzleing....washed it in water and it looked like manure...cleaned it and went through the process again and it looked good. Two coats did good on everything includeing the barell.
Back to the wood; I decided to go without stain and used Tru Oil. Put on about six coats and used steel wool between coats.
One other area some folks had a problem with was the escuthion screws. I took a bar of soap and pulled the screw threads across the soap before putting them in place. They went in with no problem.
Well folks thats the way I did it. Just a plane Jane gun. I think its going to shoot good . The first three rounds at 50 yards was about a 3.5 inch group.
Now ..If I can get a picture to work.
Sorry about the spelling .
When the kit arrived the first thing I did was put the barell and tang togather and tryed it in the stock. Well just like several other folks that put one of these kits togather it looked like the releif for the tang was about a quater inch to long. Well I went on and put the lock in the stock to see if it was going to fit good .It was a nice snug fit......Great! While it was in I set the barell and tang back in and the bolster did not line up with the cut out in the lock so I started filing on the stock and took off enough wood that the bolster fit good into the cut out in the lock..and guess what? That allowed the tang to slide all the way back in its recess. No gap. I took out a little wood under the lock and that brought the lock up snug to the barell.
I left the entrance thimble and end cap on the stock and mounted the butt plate and toe plate and started trying to shape the stock......that took a while because iI didnt really know what I was looking for. I knew that I wanted the belly off the stock and forearm and lots of wood off to make it look slimer so with that in mind I went at it.A couple hours every evening for about a week and I arrived at what I thought I could live with. Basicly I used the furniture as a guide to remove the wood.
Next I jumped on the furniture and filed all the casting lines and marks off and sanded it as smooth as I could get it with 220 grit emery cloth.
Next came the barell....I had been dreading that because I never did any draw filing so, I watched the video from Midway USA on utube, went to lowes and got a 10 inch mill file and started on the barell. It goes pretty fast. I removed all the writeing on the barell includeing the serial number. A buddy of mine had a set of metal stamps and we put the serial number and calibur on the bottom flat of the barell. After I finished draw fileing I wraped emery cloth around the file and worked on each flat untill it was as smooth as I could get it with 220 grit.
Next was browning . I browned all the metal. I used Plum brown and that required me to heat the metal,I started on the smaller parts because I had not did this before.I used a propane tourch to heat the metal up to the point that water would sizzle when it was droped on the metal.The instructions said that was about 275 degrees.Then I had a swab ready with the plumb brown and just slaped it on and kept rubbing untill it quit sizzleing....washed it in water and it looked like manure...cleaned it and went through the process again and it looked good. Two coats did good on everything includeing the barell.
Back to the wood; I decided to go without stain and used Tru Oil. Put on about six coats and used steel wool between coats.
One other area some folks had a problem with was the escuthion screws. I took a bar of soap and pulled the screw threads across the soap before putting them in place. They went in with no problem.
Well folks thats the way I did it. Just a plane Jane gun. I think its going to shoot good . The first three rounds at 50 yards was about a 3.5 inch group.
Now ..If I can get a picture to work.
Sorry about the spelling .
