What about separating the lubed patched ball from the powder with a dry patch or wad of some kind? It seems like some of the powder would tend to stick to the PRB. How much of a problem does that create? Also it would seem that the more the loading block was used, patch lube might build up on the inner walls providing for a sticky surface for powder to adhere. Again, just wondering what others have experienced.
Another loading block question
- Thread starter sneakon
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If you're using the minimum of lube (as you should) you do get some contaminated powder. When hunting, I add a Ox-Yoke fiber wad ($7.00/1000) over the powder. But not always. Half the time I forget to do it. 
Lately I've been twice soaking my patch material in my moose milk recipe and letting it dry. It still holds oils, but not much leeches out (I'm hoping). I carry it in rolls placed in little 35mm film-canister-size deerskin bags in my hunting pouch that I've treated with hot beeswax. Pull from the middle and leave the end sticking out and it works like a baby-wipe towelette dispenser. :: Once the ball-block is empty it's quick and easy to palm the patch strip bag in the same hand with the patch knife and poke balls in and slice the patch flush.
Anything that adheres is squished & squeegied down with the next patched ball. With true blackpowder most of this crud is ejected with the next firing. Some may build up where the balls stop ahead of the powder. That's why it's a good idea to wipe with a spit patch or some tow at least every 10 shots whether loading is a problem or not.
Lately I've been twice soaking my patch material in my moose milk recipe and letting it dry. It still holds oils, but not much leeches out (I'm hoping). I carry it in rolls placed in little 35mm film-canister-size deerskin bags in my hunting pouch that I've treated with hot beeswax. Pull from the middle and leave the end sticking out and it works like a baby-wipe towelette dispenser. :: Once the ball-block is empty it's quick and easy to palm the patch strip bag in the same hand with the patch knife and poke balls in and slice the patch flush.
Anything that adheres is squished & squeegied down with the next patched ball. With true blackpowder most of this crud is ejected with the next firing. Some may build up where the balls stop ahead of the powder. That's why it's a good idea to wipe with a spit patch or some tow at least every 10 shots whether loading is a problem or not.
Rat
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I use a three-hole loading block, and put two wonder wads in the third hole. For hunting I figure that three shots is the maximum I'll ever get, so two balls in the block and one in the rifle is just right for me, and makes it light and easy to carry around my neck.
I also figure I may or may not use the wad, depending on how urgent my second shot is, and that the follow up or second shot is probably going to be soon, and at close[url] range...in[/url] other words powder contamination and fine accuracy become less important. However putting the wad in the third hole makes for a fast way to use the wad, and then you just slide over one hole and ram down the ball...probably only costs an extra second.
Really quite speedy. I guess that 90% of the time you will have plenty of time to reload...but I have seen animals go down, and then get up and run off so many seconds, or even a minute later. Seen coyotes do that more than a few times.
Of course I carry more balls, wads and patching to "reload" the loading block in the field.
Anyhow, I think powder contamination is a concern when hunting for a load that's going to be in the rifle all day or for weeks so a wad is a good idea. For target shooting probably does not matter. However, in my guns I get better accuracy with a wad, so I always use them.
Rat
I also figure I may or may not use the wad, depending on how urgent my second shot is, and that the follow up or second shot is probably going to be soon, and at close[url] range...in[/url] other words powder contamination and fine accuracy become less important. However putting the wad in the third hole makes for a fast way to use the wad, and then you just slide over one hole and ram down the ball...probably only costs an extra second.
Really quite speedy. I guess that 90% of the time you will have plenty of time to reload...but I have seen animals go down, and then get up and run off so many seconds, or even a minute later. Seen coyotes do that more than a few times.
Of course I carry more balls, wads and patching to "reload" the loading block in the field.
Anyhow, I think powder contamination is a concern when hunting for a load that's going to be in the rifle all day or for weeks so a wad is a good idea. For target shooting probably does not matter. However, in my guns I get better accuracy with a wad, so I always use them.
Rat
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I usually carry two blocks. A three-shot attached to my horn strap (that is usually tucked under my haversack strap so it doesn dangle, jangle and tangle) and either a five or seven shot block in the hunting pouch. I put undersize patching (0.010" instead of my regular 0.018") in the three shot, so I can load quickly without going into the bag and without wiping or a stub-starter. One would usually be plenty, and a quick second shot can be a blessing (or a mercy). I have a powder measure on the horn strap, so I can reload in 30 seconds if I need to.
If I'm going into full battle I have three on the strap, five around my neck and seven on a block in the bag for a total of 15 pre-patched balls, and then I still have 30 in a ball-bag and pre lubed ticking to use them all up plus some. I have no idea why. :crackup:
When it's really cold it is nice to be able to reload without fumbling in the bag.
If I'm going into full battle I have three on the strap, five around my neck and seven on a block in the bag for a total of 15 pre-patched balls, and then I still have 30 in a ball-bag and pre lubed ticking to use them all up plus some. I have no idea why. :crackup:
When it's really cold it is nice to be able to reload without fumbling in the bag.
