- Joined
- Aug 21, 2004
- Messages
- 1,381
- Reaction score
- 2,157
The walnuts are starting to fall. Soon they will be prolific. I use the dye for clothes and knife sheath coloring. There are probably 100 different ways people extract the dye from the nut hulls. This is my way of doing it.
After hammering on the walnut, the hull separates from the hard inner nut. Those hulls are put in a bucket and hot water is poured over the hulls to start extracting the dye. I also use a 2x4 and press down on the hulls to help extract the dye crushing the hulls. I will do this process for several days to make sure I have gotten all the dye I can.
After that, I pour the hulls and dye water through a 1/4 inch mesh screen to take out all the big hunks. I then stretch a pair of panty hose over a bucket and pour the dye into the hose and hang it to drip. This removes all the tiny pieces that got thru the screen. If you don't get out those tiny pieces, they will stick to your cloth and your cloth will be covered in dark spots and it will look like it has the measles !! There is no getting out the dark spots. I saw a fellow once that didn't remove all the fine matter from dyeing a weskit and the weskit was pretty much ruined from all the spotting/staining of the walnut pieces.
Avoid the temptation to try to sgueeze more dye from the hose as squeezing opens the mesh more letting the tiny bits and pieces through the hose. Let drip on it's own.
What you end up with is a clean batch of dye. I needed to re-dye a pair of breeches that had faded, and they turned to a nice even color prown. Both Alum or vinegar can act as a mordant to make your stain stick to the cloth. I just hang the cloth until dry to make the stain set. Don't forget to rinse well the cloth after it dries as there is stain in the cloth that didn't stick.
After hammering on the walnut, the hull separates from the hard inner nut. Those hulls are put in a bucket and hot water is poured over the hulls to start extracting the dye. I also use a 2x4 and press down on the hulls to help extract the dye crushing the hulls. I will do this process for several days to make sure I have gotten all the dye I can.
After that, I pour the hulls and dye water through a 1/4 inch mesh screen to take out all the big hunks. I then stretch a pair of panty hose over a bucket and pour the dye into the hose and hang it to drip. This removes all the tiny pieces that got thru the screen. If you don't get out those tiny pieces, they will stick to your cloth and your cloth will be covered in dark spots and it will look like it has the measles !! There is no getting out the dark spots. I saw a fellow once that didn't remove all the fine matter from dyeing a weskit and the weskit was pretty much ruined from all the spotting/staining of the walnut pieces.
Avoid the temptation to try to sgueeze more dye from the hose as squeezing opens the mesh more letting the tiny bits and pieces through the hose. Let drip on it's own.
What you end up with is a clean batch of dye. I needed to re-dye a pair of breeches that had faded, and they turned to a nice even color prown. Both Alum or vinegar can act as a mordant to make your stain stick to the cloth. I just hang the cloth until dry to make the stain set. Don't forget to rinse well the cloth after it dries as there is stain in the cloth that didn't stick.