Anti Brush Rhetoric.

[ORBushman]

I am not looking to start up a debate or argument! Just looking for a simple answer to a question. I realize there are a lot of anti brush folks here, and can understand a lot of the feelings. But, what I can't seem to find, is a good reason to not use a nylon brush over the brass wire brushes. Wouldn't the nylon be less likely to get stuck in the bore and still do an effective job of brushing inside?

Thoughts, experiences all accepted but, would not like to have any arguments.

 

[EC121]

It isn't the brush. It is the way it is made. Some have the wire crimped in and are only meant to be pushed not pulled. The good ones have the wire looped through the threaded part to allow it to be pulled without coming off the threaded part in the bottom of the barrel. You can use the crimped ones on the artificial muzzleoaders and modern shotguns because they can easily be unbreeched. A smaller looped-through type brush( to avoid hanging) with a patch wrapped around it is the best of both worlds.

 

[64Springer]

I think a nylon brush would be a much more acceptable choice.

But it would have to fit the bore exactly.

The bristles on an oversized nylon brush would stand up when reversed and cause the same problem as the bronze brush.

 

[ORBushman]

Ok, now those replies make a bit of sense to me. Thank you gentleman.

 

[64Springer]

It isn't the brush. It is the way it is made. Some have the wire crimped in and are only meant to be pushed not pulled.

Another valid point.

 

[64Springer]

Five posts, no fighting and nobody died.

Progress.

Maybe the House can take pointers from TMF.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I don't use either.

 

[dave951]

Spend the money on a quality brush that won't self disassemble in the breech and we won't even be having this discussion. Unfortunately, some cheapskates buy cheapo stuff and then complain about the predictable results.

 

[Uncle Miltie]

No need to ever use a brush on a muzzleloader IMHO.....

 

[longcruise]

Ive come to use a brush most of the time. Some nylon and some brass. Never had a problem but I'll add a "yet" to that. Sometimes it's inconvenient in a camp or other situation and it doesn't bother me to skip the brush then.

 

[hanshi]

I found that simply cutting a patch from a Scotch Bright pad and using that instead of any brush cleans better than most any brush. You just have to use the next caliber (size down) jag.

 

[pwbsmokey]

Give the brush a twist as you reverse direction will decrease or eliminate the chance of the brush getting stuck

 

[Rich44]

Give the brush a twist as you reverse direction will decrease or eliminate the chance of the brush getting stuck

a Clock wise twist, Now you let out the secret, no more stuck brush post to read.

 

[pwbsmokey]

a Clock wise twist, Now you let out the secret, no more stuck brush post to read.

There goes my high security clearance

 

[S.Kenton]

No need to ever use a brush on a muzzleloader IMHO.....

What he said ^^^^

 

[pacanis]

It isn't the brush. It is the way it is made. Some have the wire crimped in and are only meant to be pushed not pulled. The good ones have the wire looped through the threaded part to allow it to be pulled without coming off the threaded part in the bottom of the barrel. You can use the crimped ones on the artificial muzzleoaders and modern shotguns because they can easily be unbreeched. A smaller looped-through type brush( to avoid hanging) with a patch wrapped around it is the best of both worlds.

Thanks for this information. I did not know brushes were made differently.
Can you mention brands? Tiptons? Hoppes? Are those crimped or looped through?
Those are the brands I buy. I'm not sure if those are considered cheap or not.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

If you want the scrubbing benefits of a brush without the risk of it getting stuck or coming apart, you can go period correct and use tow on a worm. This is some hemp tow on a US M1817-style worm that I bought from Track of the Wolf, next to my longrifle.

You can unravel sisal or jute rope to make tow, as well.

 

[LME]

I am not looking to start up a debate or argument! Just looking for a simple answer to a question. I realize there are a lot of anti brush folks here, and can understand a lot of the feelings. But, what I can't seem to find, is a good reason to not use a nylon brush over the brass wire brushes. Wouldn't the nylon be less likely to get stuck in the bore and still do an effective job of brushing inside?

Thoughts, experiences all accepted but, would not like to have any arguments.

A brush was used in open ended barrels that you could push all the way through. I have. found that a barrel that is cleaned with a jag and patch regularly , as should be, doesn't need a brush to keep it clean.I could never count the number of muzzle lpaders that were ruined because a brush was stuck in the barrel and the wrong methods were tried to get it out?

 

[oldwood]

The brushes that are crimped into an aluminum fixture , can be made reliable , if solder is run into the crimped fixture. Been using them done that way for 40 yrs.. Never had one come apart. .....

 

[Notchy Bob]

It's a good question.

Manufacturers sell caliber-specific cleaning kits that include brushes. This makes new shooters think they need to brush the bore, when it really isn't necessary most of the time.

I use a breech-face scraper and a jag and patch, and find that generally gets the job done. I wouldn't go too tight with the jag and patch, either... In my experience, if it takes some effort to push one into the barrel, it will take a lot of effort to get it back out.

The metal wire brushes, whether brass or stainless, are for aggressive cleaning. Black powder residue, for the most part, is water soluble. You get it wet and wipe it off, so really aggressive cleaning of a gun that has been properly maintained is seldom necessary.

The bristles on tight-fitting bore brushes have to bend back slightly as the bore brush is pushed through the bore. When you pull back on it, the bristles want to reverse, and then you have a problem. It is a non-issue with breech loaders. You push the brush all the way through the barrel and out the other end, the bristles stand up, and when you pull the brush back, the bristles reverse and lie back the other way. They can't do that with a muzzle-loader, unless you remove the breech plug, which will void the warranty on most production made muzzle loaders.

It was suggested that you give the brush a clockwise twist to facilitate reversing the bristles, and then pull it out. I have tried this, and it may help a little, but it's still a hard pull getting that brush out of there.

If you are determined to use a brush on your muzzleloader, use one with soft bristles, like nylon. If you clean your gun with hot water, the heat will further help relax the nylon bristles so they can reverse and allow you to pull the brush out. It is my understanding that bore brushes in the 19th century looked a lot like the ones we use now, but the bristles were made of natural hog bristle, which theoretically would be soft enough to reverse in the bore. However, most of the 19th century brushes I have seen were meant for the early breech loaders. The brushes were mounted on a thong, which was meant to be dropped through the bore so the brush could be pulled, rather than pushed. A thong was a lot easier for a trooper to carry than a rod.

In summary, you really don't need a brush for routine cleaning of a muzzleloader that shoots patched round balls. If you must brush, use one with nylon bristles. If you elect to use a brass or stainless brush anyway, just enter "stuck brush" in the search box in the upper right corner of your screen for advice about what to do next.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob