Antique on powder horn

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burch

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I'm wanting to dye my powder horn an antique color. Something yellowish brown. I'd like to try the onion skin process but I can't seem to find any instructions on how to do it. Some detail would be real nice. I've also heard about using Rit so some instruction on using that would be a big help too. I've checked YouTube and found some good videos but nothing with much detail. I know you horners don't like giving out your trade secrets and I don't blame you one bit but it sure is a lot of fun making your own stuff.
burch
 
Collect lots of onion skins, add to water and boil. Add horn to hot/warm liquid and wait.

You could also use aqua fortis. Apply, heat and repeat as desired.
 
Until it is the color you want.:wink:
I would guess the color will lighten a little as it dries.
 
If your horn is pretty light, get you some walnuts as they fall. Remove the shell and, wearing rubber gloves, cut away the husk in sections [should be green on the outside and strong yellow inside]. Rub the moist inner fiber over your not-too-polished horn, and let dry. Rub out or repeat until you achieve the desired tone.
Good results can be had.
~Longshot
 
Rethink: The shell is on the inside/husk on outside.
Correction:
Longshot47 said:
If your horn is pretty light, get you some walnuts as they fall. Wearing rubber gloves, cut away the husk in sections [should be green on the outside and strong yellow inside]. Rub the moist inner fiber over your not-too-polished horn, and let dry. Rub out or repeat until you achieve the desired tone.
Good results can be had.
~Longshot
 
I like the rit berries (not that there's anything wrong with the onion skin deal - I've never tried it, so I can't say if it works well or not) ... if memory serves, there's a good set of instructions in the Sibley book.
 
Have u guys used Rit and if so how does it look. Also, what colors do I need and what mix ratio to get the antique look. My horn is pretty white. ( how do I add a picture to my post )
 
When I used RIT dye, this is the way I made the dying solution. Take a look in the "Gallery" (Horner75) at some horns that I posted over time. Many of those are horns I dyed with RIT clothing powdered or liquid dyes. A good base color is made from RIT: Yellow, brown and Sunshine orange. You have to experiment with the dyes to get them to the color you like. Start out with about a gallon and a half of water in a large pot and bring to boil and turn off heat, then add I box of your yellow RIT and just a small tad of brown and Sunshine orange sparingly. When you have the color you like after testing with a small area of you horn, submerge the entire horn in the solution for at least 15 minutes. Pull out and check. Want it darker? Put back in solution for a few minutes then recheck. Save solution for next horn!

Rick
 
I just did a very white horn and used aqua fortis. Put it on, let it dry and then heated it. Did 3 coats and it came out great. Then I aged it with dark walnut stain and powdered black tempera paint as referenced in the Sibley book.

Dave
 
I built a horn a while back that came out real nice. I made an error in that I glued and tacked in the cap prior to staining it. I masked off the horn and stained the wooden cap, but the stain bled through the wood and into the horn. I tried lightly sanding the horn where it bled through, but with little success. So I said to heck with it and just applied the laurel mountain forge stain to the whole horn, it came out really nice and I got a lot of compliments on it. the problem is I had my leather possibilities bag resting on top of the horn on the wall, and where the leather had remained in contact with the horn, it had sapped the color out to a lighter, murkey shade of brown. I am asking you because I imagine with your screen name, you are the horn guru: did the contact with the leather cause the stain to get sapped away, or could it have been caused by something else, and/or is there anything I could have applied over the stain to prevent this from happening? I can remove being outside from the equation because I never took it outside because I carved a nice pointed stopper for it that matches the contour of the horn, and somebody pointed out to me that if I were to fall as I am prone to do that I would risk goring myself with my own horn. The possibilities bad hasn't been moved either for a bunch of years because I use a daypack for the first few days and then I say forget this weight and it is just boots and a rifle from there on out. I know a modern rubber limbsaver will suck the stain out of a wood stock. thank you
 
I don't know about being a horn Guru, but I can tell you what I do and you can take it from there. First off, and many of you might shutter, but I totally secure my base plugs to my powder horns BEFORE STAINING OR DYING my horns. I stain and put the final finish on the base wood and then glue and pin the base on the horn, then apply the finish on the horn. The last thing I do is give the horn two or more coats of Johnson's paste wax. I have never had the problem of leaching out the color as you described, but I image that if you didn't apply several coats of wax or other top coat over the horn finish. The chemical reaction took over and discoloring happened.

Rick
 
thank you, I will try the paste the next time I build a horn. my leather theory was due to the fact that only the areas where the possibilities bag and sling drooped over the horn did the lmf leach out, while other areas where not anywhere near as dramatic.
 
I picked up some liquid rit cocoa brown chocolate dye at the drug store and some johnsons wax paste at the hardware store...how would you recommend that I use the liquid cocoa rit? thank you
 
Mix it with a LOT of sunshine yellow. A very little brown goes a long way towards darkening a horn. Others may disagree.

I remain your humble servant,

Just Dave
 

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