Any reason to need a bronze bore brush?

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MSK

Smollett
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Just curious. Since BP fouling is water soluble, is there any real need for a metal bore brush, or any bore brush for that matter?

Thanks, Smollett
 
There may be an occasional need for a bore brush but never use a metal brush in the bore of a muzzleloading gun. Too many people have gotten a metal brush stuck in the bottom of their bore and then have the tip of their rod come off while they are trying to get the stuck brush out. Then they are in deep dukey. If you think you need to use a brush, use only a nylon brush. The problem with brushes is that as you start them into the bore, the bristles lay down and when you start to pull it back, the bristles just dig in and become stuck. Nylon bristles are more easily forced back the other way and the brush can be removed. Be absolutely sure that every rod that you put down your bore has the tips cross pinned or they are very likely to eventually come off.

There are a couple of ways to remove a stuck brush. If the tip has not pulled off your rod, try turning it clock-wise (never counter clock-wise or you will unscrew it) to lay the bristles down as you pull it out of the bore. If the tip has pulled off your rod and the brush is stuck in your bore, go to the hardware store and get a piece of thin walled metal tubing long enough to reach the bottom of your bore. Force the tubing down over the stuck brush and then extract it. But the absolute best way to handle the stuck brush problem is to never put a metal brush into your bore in the first place.

Very seldom will you ever need to use a brush in your bore. I have one in every size but most have never been used....but, like breach scrapers, I have them just in case. You should be able to take care of all of your bore cleaning with warm soapy water and a patch(s) on a cleaning jag.
 
"is there any real need for a metal bore brush, or any bore brush for that matter?"

Best use for a bore brush is to get it stuck at the bottom of the barrel and then make a post here on how to get it out, besides that, no use.
 
Bronze brushes should be avoided by ML shooters for the most part. Nylon brushes are normally okay.
 
Have been using bronze wire brushes since 1977 and have NEVER had one get stuck. Don't know why some have trouble w/ wire brushes. The reason I use them when cleaning is that they get into the corners of the grooves.

I use them not only when cleaning, but also as an alternative to a wet patch when hunting and at the range.

A couple of "swipes" w/ the brush, dump the debris and load. My flintlocks never fail to ignite and don't have trouble w/ clogged THs.

I buy the wire brushes according to the caliber printed on the pkg and bingo...they work fine. My son also uses them w/o any problems.......Fred
 
It depends on what you're shooting.
In some traditional muzzleloaders the most common deterioration of the bore is pitting in the corners of the rifling. To prevent that pitting from getting a toe hold brushing can be worth while. Shooting paper patch helps too. If you're just shooting round ball or minies with low powder charges then there's little worry other than the usual general area cleaning.
Last in Phoenix there was a lovely used Volunteer but with pits strung down the bore in the corners. Sad!
 
Smollett said:
is there any real need for a metal bore brush,
Nope, at least I've never needed one for common cleaning. :idunno:
I have several, but they're used to refurbish neglected barrels.
 
What I've seen is only for shooting square groove barrels with elongated lead bullets. As said above, like that Volunteer. If it'd been in better condition I'd'ave took it home.
The Hoyt trapezoidal kinda round bottom groove medium fast twist .458 bore won't ever have that problem because it doesn't have tight corners that are hard for the expanding lead to fill up.
 
" buy the wire brushes according to the caliber printed on the pkg and bingo...they work fine. My son also uses them w/o any problems."

The two (2) most common asked questions asked here are:

1. How to get a dry ball out of my barrel?

2. How to get a stuck brush out of my barrel?

Both should be a sticky.
 
I use a brush in between wet patches during every cleaning session. It's a good idea to buy quality brushes but I've never had one come apart. GW

I also use a 30 caliber brush to clean out the patent breech opening.
 
I now use nylon brushes after the frustrating actions of trying to get a bronze brush out of the barrel.
The removal effort was time consuming and very difficult. Until using some methods described on this site, I had stripped the threads off of the brush or in the ram rod.
I never will use a bronze brush in my muzzleloaders again!
Ron
 
I have always used the copper brushes; preferrably the hard to find ones with the twisted wire center LOOPED thru the threaded shank, not crimped in. Only had one twist off in 45 years or so. Came right out using a corkscrew type was puller on the end of my cleaning rod. I do use the brush differently than most people, however. I always is an undersized one, such as a .40 or .45 caliber in a .50 caliber and use the brush to hold a cleaning patch . This does a better job of forcing the cleaning patch down into the corners of the rifling grooves for a better cleaning job. It also has the added benefit of being able to twist a sort of tail on a loosely wrapped patch and run it down against the breech plug and twirl it around to clean it better.
 
Smollett said:
Just curious. Since BP fouling is water soluble, is there any real need for a metal bore brush, or any bore brush for that matter?

Thanks, Smollett
I've used good quality bronze bore brushes all the time for years...after having one of the cheap crimped ones pull off down in the bore 10-15 years ago I threw them all out and got the ones with the twisted wire routed through the threaded attachment end.

And have never let one pull off again as I learned not to use Gorilla force to try and pull one straight back out...just a slight clockwise rotation to break the bristles grip on the bore walls and they slide right back out.

In my experience, the rare situation where a brush hangs is usually when its new with ultra sharp cut tips on the ends of the bristles...but after a few trips up & down the bore I've never had one try to hang after that.

I also believe they definitely help get the 90 degree land/groove corners cleaner with a wet patch than just using a wet patch on a round jag...and I use a small .32cal brush with wet/dry/lubes patches for the patent breech powder chamber.

Others mileage may vary...
 
On a breech on a Renny or Hawkin for example how can you tell if you get it clean the way they offset?The walls could get buildup after awhile even if it isn,t obstructed.
 
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