The first Bridger had the worn places in the pattern of the original (see my avatar at left) left unstained and the dark areas are done with Fiebing's dark brown oil leather dye, or maybe it was Lincoln. Then I came back with Track's Original Oil Finish (I think it was) to darken the unstained part from white to yellowish, or maybe it was LMF Lancaster Maple. Probably put tung oil on as a finish. Barrel is LMF Barrel Brown Degreaser, rest of parts are heat blued.
Last one was more complicated. Decided Fiebing's was too red, wanted Lincoln leather dye, didn't have it. Wanted a brown-black color. SO- tested for the darkest dye I had, used Muzzleloader Builders Supply's Color Rich for Tiger Maple on the dark areas. Soaked good, blended edges. Used Track's Original Oil with a few drops of LMF Nut Brown stain on whole stock, several coats. Smoked stock with a small lamp, steel wooled to blend. Did several times. Tested Fiebings in barrel channel, it went right through the finish. Mixed a little Fiebings with OOF for more coats. Color Rich Stain also went through the finish to touch up a couple of spots. Steel-wooled finish. Ram rod is .500 inch stained with Fiebings,
Barrel had four coats of Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown Degreaser, left a little thin or streaky. May put on some more coats and then boil for a blue color. Breech plug, tang, lock, trigger plate and trigger guard, screws and bolts, butt plate and toe plate were all heat blued to just color, then steel-wooled to worn look. Escutcheons, keys, entry pipe and nose cap left white.
I have handled the Bridger rifle and like the way it looks now. Thus I simulate the wear. There is no fakery, my name is stamped on the bottom flat. My first copy (with the shorter barrel) has been shot a few thousand times by now and hunted elk for several seasons. I like the worn look. Like my 67 year old Martin D-18 guitar compared to a plasticky looking new one.