Aqufortis vs Lye

[Swamp Rat]

Going to do some test pieces, and I seem to remember From Zonie's artical you need to use Vinger after a lye/easy off to nutrelize the lye base. Can someone confirm. also Aqufortis finish is there a need to neutralize the acid? Memory is . Thanks in advance.

 

[Pete G]

You are correct. Lye is a base, hence it is neutralized by acid. AQ on the other hand is an acid and is neutralized by a base, such as ammonia.

Incidentally I think that lye only works well on cherry, although I haven't tried it on anything else so I don't know that for a hard fact.

 

[Black Hand]

Why would you use lye BEFORE Aquafortis? Just use the Aquafortis, heat and neutralize with baking soda or ammonia - Done.

 

[Billnpatti]

Anytime you use a strong base such as lye or a strong acid such as aquafortis, you will need to neutralize. I think that a thorough washing with clean water to remove most of the acid or base is the first step. Then neutralize either the acid or base with some baking soda solution. It will neutralize both acid and base. Another wiping down with clear water to remove any residual baking soda and, after allowing the wood to dry, you are ready to continue with the finish of your choice.

 

[Swamp Rat]

Have lots of different woods so that is the reason for testing. I could not remember if the aquafortis needed nutralizing or not. Easy off is so easy to use, is the reason. Spray wipe and neutrize, no heat to take chance of scorching a thin peice. Thanks guys.

 

[Black Hand]

Then neutralize either the acid or base with some baking soda solution. It will neutralize both acid and base.

Sorry, but this is incorrect. The baking soda (base) will neutralize the Aquafortis (acid). Baking soda will have no effect on a base other than the fact it is less basic than the lye. Strong bases must be treated with an acid...

Both acids and bases can be diluted with volumes of water to reduce their concentration/strength.

 

[George]

I believe properly prepared "aquafortis" is not acidic, doesn't need to be neutralized. Enough excess iron is put into nitric acid to use up all the acid, and the end product is ferric nitrate, nitric oxide and water. It's the ferric nitrate which does the staining, and when you buy stain named aquafortis, it's what you get, not nitric acid. Read the instructions for using the "aquafortis" sold by Track of the Wolf and you will see no recommendation to neutralize it.

I suppose the name Aquafortis for the stain is a marketing gimmick, because Aqua Fortis is the old name for pure nitric acid, meaning "strong water".

Spence

 

[Black Hand]

I believe properly prepared "aquafortis" is not acidic, doesn't need to be neutralized. Enough excess iron is put into nitric acid to use up all the acid, and the end product is ferric nitrate, nitric oxide and water. It's the ferric nitrate which does the staining, and when you buy stain named aquafortis, it's what you get, not nitric acid. Read the instructions for using the "aquafortis" sold by Track of the Wolf and you will see no recommendation to neutralize it.

I agree, but it seems that it is rarely fully reacted....

 

[Billnpatti]

Oops! My bad. I don't know what I was thinking when I said that. I know good and well that baking soda will only neutralize an acid. I've had enough chemistry to know that. Don't know why I said that......brain fart, I guess. Glad you caught it. Thanks for the correction. :hatsoff:

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
In addition, heating or blanching the wood drives off the hydrogen ions leaving ferric oxide behind (the red-brown color, rust). Theoretically, it does not need to be neutralized but it is best to do so just in case some acid remains.

dave

 

[Zonie]

Lye water will work on any wood. It leeches out the tannin in the woods grain and brings it to the surface.

This can be good or bad depending on what a person wants.

With the blond woods it gives a light brown color. If the wood has a curly grain it brings out the dark brown of the cut grain where the waves break out of the surface and leaves the uncut wood lightly effected. This will increase the contrast between the stripes.

The darker woods like cherry will get considerably darker with a lye water wash. Some will like it and others won't.

Dark woods like Walnut will turn almost black if lye water washes are used on it.

I use vinegar to neutralize the lye left behind but that's because I'm going to be handling the wood after the process. Lye eats skin and meat (and eyes) and I don't want it working on my skin.
The lye by itself won't damage any of the metal parts like steel, brass, bronze or copper but it will readily attack aluminum (not that any of us would use a aluminum inlay on our guns :grin: .

Acids on the other hand will attack steel, brass, bronze, copper and aluminum (and skin and eyes).

Neutralizing acids can be done with baking soda but remember, when it drys the powdery white look of the soda will be left behind.
That's not something I want on my stocks so I would never use baking or washing soda for this purpose.

Although it's stinky, household ammonia leaves no crystalline deposits behind and it is a base with a Ph of 11.8. It will neutralize acids but have no effect on another base like lye.

Because no crystalline deposits are left behind, it would be my choice for neutralizing any acid that might be left behind by Aqua Fortis.

 

[b737tvc]

Baking soda, works real well!!

Beaver T. :bow:

 

[don hepler]

Aquafortis, is easy to use, especially if you want that dark look. With the head gun applied, it will turn greenish, then gray, and finally a reddish color. Then when you stain the wood, it will accept the stain uniformally, with a deep darker color.