And ditto TFoley's comment above: The OP has asked this question before, and received substantially the same response : Tumbling minié balls. Advice please
If yours has three rifling grooves like I believe it does then just measuring it with your calipers will not work and you'll be measuring the groove depth on one side and the land depth on the other side. You should get some pin gauges like was recommended earlier or borrow some from someone that already has them.Thanks gentlemen for your help. I made some time this afternoon and slugged the first inch or so down into the muzzle. The rifling is shallow (as it should be because it’s got progressive depth rifling). The widest diameter measurement is .584 and the smallest is .580. So the .575 and .577 bullets were too small.
My lubricant is 80/20 tallow and beeswax that i make myself. I learned about it from the Research Press website. I‘m very new to minié balls and rifle muskets, but the few shooting sessions I’ve done with this Enfield using that lubricant allowed me to not need to clean between shots and final clean up at home was easy. (Of course now I know the bullets were undersized so that probably had a bit to do with easy loading)
I bought the lead directly from a foundry and was displayed as pure lead on the shelf.
This rifle musket has 3 groove rifling
So, I need to find a bullet mould that casts a US minié/Burton ball I can size to around .582 or I can go British and paper patch a Pritchett/Boxer bullet up to thickness and use an expanding plug.
Have I assimilated everyone’s advice?
I didn't see any posts that mentioned wads. My 1861 shoots much better without wads. Just ball on powder. I'm not familiar with the 1853, but as I understand from videos the historically accurately made ball and cartridge, and the loading method results in paper wads above and below ball, no? Is the OP shooting with or without wads?
Those are some pretty awesome keyholes, BTW.
Sure you're using Pure Lead, not wheel weight stuff? Certainly sounds like you've tried all avenues. Will be interesting to see what others say.View attachment 274697View attachment 274698View attachment 274699View attachment 274700View attachment 274701View attachment 274702View attachment 274701There will be some clever person that answers “there are hundreds of thousands of dead soldiers that can answer that”
I’ve got a Parker Hale P53 with the historic 1:78 twist. I have tried minié balls from moulds made by Lyman, Lee and a custom made mould with interchangeable plug inserts for different hollow bases. I’ve tried ffg and fffg black powder from 40 grains up to 80 grains. Every single bullet tumbles into the target, if it hits the target at all.
The rifling bore is in great shape and the progressive-depth rifling is prominent.
I don’t slam the bullet home onto powder, I weigh the bullets within 1 grain, my lubricant is excellent, I use pure soft lead. What the hell does this rifle musket want to eat?
I know this isn’t a target rifle but it should be able to at least do a 5-6 inch group at 100 yards. Attached are photos of the tumbling targets and a couple of recovered bullets. I can’t get a good picture of the rifling but take my word for it that it’s in nice shape. This musket was made in Birmingham in 1974 and it has had very little use.
The annual qualifications according to the Regulations manual for Musketry Instruction of the Army (British) dated 1859 shot a 3rd class target at ranges between 150 and 300 yards in 50 yard increments -while standing.I remember watching some documentary where it was said the rifle musket in the hands of an average soldier using the service cartridge could make a 4 inch group at 100 yards.
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