Armi Sport Enfield Tang screw misalignment

[Skitch]

My new to me 1999 Parker Hale / Armi Sport 1858 Enfield, The tang screw does not seat in the counter sink on the tang. The angle of the screw threaded into the trigger pivot casting goes a few degrees forward of the perpendicular of the tang. The threads on the trigger pivot casting are at the needed angle, although angled back in relation to the cast boss. Without another rifle to reference I am not sure what is off. I don’t think this is normal. Anyone else experienced this condition? Is there a proven way to correct? I’ll post a picture later.

 

[Skitch]

My new to me 1999 Parker Hale / Armi Sport 1858 Enfield, The tang screw does not seat in the counter sink on the tang. The angle of the screw threaded into the trigger pivot casting goes a few degrees forward of the perpendicular of the tang. The threads on the trigger pivot casting are at the needed angle, although angled back in relation to the cast boss. Without another rifle to reference I am not sure what is off. I don’t think this is normal. Anyone else experienced this condition? Is there a proven way to correct? I’ll post a picture later.

So, here are a couple pictures showing how the angle of the screw started into the trigger pivot casting is a few degrees off from the angle of the hole and countersink in the tang. When screw is tightened to the point where the bottom of the head contacts the hole / countersink it starts binding and will not seat snug into the countersink.
As I said above, the tapped hole in the trigger pivot boss is not perpendicular to the cast boss. I wonder if this is the issue. If it was and it could swing to where it lined up, things might be happy. Is that how it should be?

 

[Pete G]

So, here are a couple pictures showing how the angle of the screw started into the trigger pivot casting is a few degrees off from the angle of the hole and countersink in the tang. When screw is tightened to the point where the bottom of the head contacts the hole / countersink it starts binding and will not seat snug into the countersink.
As I said above, the tapped hole in the trigger pivot boss is not perpendicular to the cast boss. I wonder if this is the issue. If it was and it could swing to where it lined up, things might be happy. Is that how it should be?

You’re right; it’s not correct. The trigger boss can be off a bit, but the tang screw should be aligned with the tang. Make sure that the screw is not touching the stock and pushing the screw out of alignment. If not , then run the proper size tap from top to bottom so that the threaded hole is correct.

 

[SDSmlf]

A couple of simple things to investigate.

1. How does the screw line up in the barrel countersink with trigger plate removed? Does it go through or bind in the stock?
2. How does the screw line up with the barrel removed when you screw it into the trigger plate? Does it easily go through or does it bind on the stick?
3. The clearance hole through the stock should clear the screw by .030” or so. If not to size, you can open it up. If the screw is still binding on the stock wood I would not suggest increasing the hole diameter much more, but maybe work the top or bottom of hole with a rat tail file for proper clearance.
4. You might be able to get things to line up by shimming the front of the trigger plate and or inletting the rear of the trigger plate a bit, to change the angle of screw hole in the trigger plate relative to the hole in the barrel tang. But this path potentially opens up a couple cans of worms. The trigger guard is pinned in the front to the stock and you will likely have to remove material from the bottom of the trigger plate and or the top of the trigger guard to get the cross pin to line up. If you inlet the rear of the trigger guard much you will begin impacting how the trigger and sear bar go together. PROCEED WITH CAUTION if you start removing any metal or wood.

And just as an FYI, running a tap up from the bottom of the trigger plate through the existing tapped hole will not change the location or angle of the tapped hole. The tap will just follow the existing tapped hole. I had one of these Italian made Enfields, though it was an 1861 Carbine and not the 1858, and it was quite the house of cards to get everything to go together and lined up. Nothing like the pre-Italian actual British made Parker Hales. I wish you luck working things out. Just move carefully, measuring multiple times and only removing material once.

 

[Skitch]

Thank you SDSmif! This gives me confidence in the path I am taking. On the 1858, the trigger pivot with tang screw boss is seperate from the trigger guard. It is held in place by the tang screw, and only covered by the trigger guard. I am in the process of brazing in a piece of brass screw in the existing off angle screw hole and redrilling and tapping the hole perpendicular rather than angled back. The inletting in the stock will need to be relieved. My plan is to give it room for the boss to fit with slop, and then bed with a mixture of saw dust and animal glue.

 

[Skitch]

Success! Brazed in a brass screw piece in the original hole in the trigger pivot plate. Redrilled & tapped it straight. Hogged out the inletting for the trigger plate to allow it to move to correct alignment and bedded it in with animal glue and sawdust.

 

[SDSmlf]

Success! Brazed in a brass screw piece in the original hole in the trigger pivot plate. Redrilled & tapped it straight. Hogged out the inletting for the trigger plate to allow it to move to correct alignment and bedded it in with animal glue and sawdust.

Sounds like you are good to go. It will be interesting to hear how well the animal glue and sawdust holds up as bedding. I know when I tried using it many years ago for bedding it would shrink initially and then gradually shrink more over time. There was a learning curve. Will depend how thick the bedding is.