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Eterry

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The 2nd black powder gun I owned was as a 15 yo kid Dad took me to a gun show and I got a NIB Baby Dragoon, 31 cal. It traveled with me everywhere, a cylinder full of fffg and home cast .321 balls. Then came a 1860 Army 44. Again, who needs a measure when you fill the cylinders with fffg.
But honestly they were a mess, hot Texas weather and crisco made for slick stocks and grimy hands, so my interest waned. Oh yea, they all hit a foot or so high at 25 yards.

I decided to get a Remington NMA 44 clone and try again. I think I still have a .454 RB mold.

How many of you use something on top of the RB to lube/prevent chain fires?
How many use a OP wad only?
How many use both?

Thanks.
 
Years ago I used crisco on top of the ball because that is what most people did. I now use a homemade lubed felt wad over the powder and then the ball. I don't bother with crisco because it won't make much difference given my pistol shooting skills. For a number of years I used Wonder Wads over the powder if I was going to leave the gun loaded for more than a day.
 
The pistol arrived today, looks like i'll need to replace the nipples.
What kind of nipples do you reccomend for a NMA clone?

I asked about wads vs crisco in reference to chain fires... although I hear that's usually an improper cap issue.

In my Pietta 1858 I use Treso nipples and #11 RWS Caps. I make my own lubed felt wads (50/50 beeswax/crisco) that I add over the powder for shooting sessions. I can run through 5+ cylinders without issue from hard fouling.

I’ve never lubed the chambers over the balls and find it unnecessary while using my over powder wads. I’m of the opinion that most chainfires are caused by poorly fitting nipples/caps, which is not a problem I have with the treso nipples and RWS caps.

30-35gr FFFg with a lubed wad and .457 ball shoots to point of aim at 25 yards all day.

-Jake
 
I used felt wads for a long time. Then I decided to try nothing and saw no reason not to. Seemed a waste of time and effort, and from what I understand isn’t even traditional anyway.

As to chainfires I’ve never had one in the maybe 1000 rounds from my ROA or maybe 400 through my NMA, but one time my father came down and we went to the range and he had a chainfire despite using wads. An old ASM 1860.

My Pietta NMA has sported the original nipples. They work just fine with the Rem #10’s I use. The vent hole is a little larger than the ToTW nipples I have on my ROA.
 
Using a well lubed at least 1/8" felt wad will keep fouling soft. Tight caps on quality nipples will prevent chain fire.
 
In 1981 the 70year old man who used to shoot black powder told me to use crisco to prevent chainfires...I was 16 and didn't argue.

I may try no wad, no crisco see how it works visa vis fouling.

I have #10 caps. Looks like I'll need a nipple wrench, the ones I have won't fit. I'd like to clean up the existing nipples.

Thanks for the help.
 
I got to thinking a bit more on my forgoing lubed wads and having no issues (I generally go through maybe 5-10 cylinders worth as I spend the day at the range) while watching Mr Beliveau’s video recently posted and he mentions needing to lube over the conicals to keep the fouling soft and to keep the accuracy up, that it would otherwise nosedive rapidly, which I never saw myself shooting at 15 yds. But then at that time I’m 99.9% sure this was prior to my using Olde E, which means I was using T7, and a whole different ball game.
 
In the past I have used grease over the ball and lubed op wads. Grease is not necessary except to keep fouling soft and one actually needs nothing in the chamber with the ball/powder. As stated above chainfire danger results from poorly fitted caps.
 
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