Ballistol

[Cowboy]

I hope I'm posting in the right area for this topic. I am curious to know a little more on the use of Ballistol and its purposes. Here is some of the questions I have about this stuff: Can you use it to wipe between shots at the range? For my main cleaning I use soap and water to clean out my bores.Can I also use Ballistol in the water when I clean out my muzzleloader bores.I then assemble my muzzleloader and run a couple alcohol patches along with a couple od dry patches to wipe out any moisture left behind. I then use a patch soaked with Barricade to coat the bore. I have not had any rust issues doing it this way. I use the Barricade in the bore for long term storrage also. Can Ballistol be used like Barricade in the bore for long term storrage? I also hear the Ballistol wont hurt wood surfaces and am wondering about wipeing down the whole out side of the muzzleloader with the stuff. What are the pros and cons about using Ballistol for the inside and outside of the muzzleloader for long term storrage or any time during and after general cleaning? Thankyou, Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[bpd303]

I wouldn't use it for long term storage or on the stock. Mixed with water it is good for wiping between shots and dry patch lube. Here is a thread that will answer some questions and then some. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...290456/post/1421668/hl/ballistol/fromsearch/1/

 

[Cowboy]

Thankyou for the information! I have made up my mind not to use Ballistol on anything I own. The way that I have been cleaning and caring for and storing my muzzleloaders have resulted in clean functional muzzleloaders with never having rust issues. I will keep doing the same things that I've always done. Don't fix it if it insn't broken. Anyway, thanks for the education. Very informitive and helpful! Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[Bob J]

Ballistol has worked great for me for years. I use it mixed with water with a flush kit to get my flinters squeeky clean. Straight Ballistol performs well for long-term storage, bore protection and all exterior metal. I occasionally wipe the wood down with a little aerosol Ballistol on a cleaning patch. I also use the aerosol Ballistol for a quick clean-up at the range before putting the rifles in the cases. But it's still good to re-check the bores after afew days to a week after cleaning, just to be safe, no matter what you use for bore protection. That said, I am amazed how clean a dry patch comes out two or three months later - snow white with a faint trace of yellow which is the residual Ballistol.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

Ballistol was developed in Germany in the very late 19th Century. The idea was to come up with one product that soldiers could use to lubricate and protect the metal parts on their guns, the stock, and on their leather belts and pouches. It does all of those things pretty well, but there are other products that do any one of them better.

I use the stuff all the time, except for long-term storage. It's really handy to have one container in my range box, that does all the things that you have described doing. It doesn't turn into tar, the way petroleum products do. I don't have to worry about getting it on the stock. I often wipe the stock down with Ballistol without any problem over several years.

On this board posters generally love it or hate it. It works well for me, but other products work well for lots of people too.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have made up my mind not to use Ballistol on anything I own

Wise decision. :applause:

 

[Rifleman1776]

The idea was to come up with one product that soldiers could use

Remember, Germany lost the war.

 

[tecum-tha]

Definitely not because of Ballistol....
it seems to me the German stuff is this bad that even the US "special forces" prefer to use German weapons and quite obviously the US used WWII German technology in the stealth bombers, to propel rockets to fly to the moon, to propel airplanes, to stabilize the gun in your main battle tank etc.? Which country still exports the most quality products, still has an existing manufacturing industry, has a population with most all people have their teeth in working order and not looking like a tattooed street gang and a huge "export surplus" and a half-way balanced budget???

 

[Spikebuck]

You've already made a decision not to use it, but I thought I'd just add that I, personally, cannot use the stuff indoors. It makes my eyes and lungs burn something fierce. Must be some kind of allergic reaction. I have NO other allergies of any kind at all, if that is what it is. I can handle "dry" patches made with Dutch's system with no problems, but considering my reaction to this stuff I moved away from it completely.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

You've already made a decision not to use it, but I thought I'd just add that I, personally, cannot use the stuff indoors. It makes my eyes and lungs burn something fierce. Must be some kind of allergic reaction. I have NO other allergies of any kind at all, if that is what it is. I can handle "dry" patches made with Dutch's system with no problems, but considering my reaction to this stuff I moved away from it completely.

That's a very good reason to stay away from it. There are other products that work well.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Definitely not because of Ballistol....
it seems to me the German stuff is this bad that even the US "special forces" prefer to use German weapons and quite obviously the US used WWII German technology in the stealth bombers, to propel rockets to fly to the moon, to propel airplanes, to stabilize the gun in your main battle tank etc.? Which country still exports the most quality products, still has an existing manufacturing industry, has a population with most all people have their teeth in working order and not looking like a tattooed street gang and a huge "export surplus" and a half-way balanced budget???

Since you take me so seriously, let me tell you about this big bridge I have for sale......... :grin:

 

[tecum-tha]

I hear...

 

[Jason Lewis]

I like ballistol, works well for me.

 

[Billnpatti]

I hope I'm posting in the right area for this topic. I am curious to know a little more on the use of Ballistol and its purposes. Here is some of the questions I have about this stuff: Can you use it to wipe between shots at the range? For my main cleaning I use soap and water to clean out my bores.Can I also use Ballistol in the water when I clean out my muzzleloader bores.I then assemble my muzzleloader and run a couple alcohol patches along with a couple od dry patches to wipe out any moisture left behind. I then use a patch soaked with Barricade to coat the bore. I have not had any rust issues doing it this way. I use the Barricade in the bore for long term storrage also. Can Ballistol be used like Barricade in the bore for long term storrage? I also hear the Ballistol wont hurt wood surfaces and am wondering about wipeing down the whole out side of the muzzleloader with the stuff. What are the pros and cons about using Ballistol for the inside and outside of the muzzleloader for long term storrage or any time during and after general cleaning? Thankyou, Respectfully, cowboys1062.

Ballistol is great stuff but it is not a panacea. It is great for some things but not for others. For instance, it makes a great patch lube and, when diluted 1 part Ballistol ot 10 parts water, it makes a great cleaner or solution for wiping between shots. I use the solution to spray on my revolvers after disassembling them and it seems to just melt off the fouling. I don't use it for my final cleaning on my rifles or shotguns, not only because of the cost factor, because I believe using a good dose of hot soapy water is the best cleaning solution for a them but it is gret for cleaning a revolver because you need so much less of it on a revolver. The cost is not so great of a concern when cleaning revolvers.

In spite of many claims to the contrary, I do not believe Ballistol is the best choice for rust protection. My personal preference is Barricade.

My cleaning ritual or procedure differs from yours but if your method is working for you and you are not having any rust problems, there is no need for making any changes. Just keep doing what works for you.

For more information on using Ballistol for a patch lube, get a copy of Dutch Schoultz' Muzzleloading Accuracy System. It is relatively cheap, actually a fantastic deal for the information in it. If you don't already have a copy, do yourself a favor and order one today before he quits selling them. He is talking about doing that, so act soon before the chance to own a valuable piece of information is gone. www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com

 

[Jim C]

I just made up a batch of 1:6 Ballistol/water for lubing patches. I shook it up then dipped three patch strips about 20 inches long swirling them around in the solution, then lifted them out and squeezed out the excess between my thumb and index finger then laid them out flat on a piece of wax paper to dry. Two days later I have one strip that is still greasy as all get out for it's entire length, another one is greasy for half it's length and dry to the touch on the other end. The third is bone dry for it's entire length. It's like the oil and water won't mix. Don't know what went wrong? Have you ever experienced that?

 

[azmntman]

Let em SOAK for a bit and its important to use the same pressure to "squeeze" the strips when removing from the solution. Also they must be dried FLAT (did ya hang em to dry?). Thats all I know :idunno:

 

[Semisane]

I guess I'm odd man out. Read all of the virtues and uses spoken of above. Tried it once a few years back and have no use for the stinky stuff.

 

[Jim C]

I didn't let them soak, just dunked them in the solution. Then I pulled the strips between index finger and thumb to squeeze out excess. I did lay them flat on a piece of wax paper on a table top to dry.
I was hashing this out with Dutch earlier today and on about his third email he asked if I had washed the cloth beforehand to get the sizing chemicals out of it, and you know what? I didn't. Have decided that that is where the problem lies. I will wash and dry the material and try again tomorrow.......Do you always wash your material prior to lubing?....Thanks a ton for your input.

 

[Don Steele]

Sounds like Dutch has resolved the biggest part of your problem, i.e.: washing the material first.
I would add this comment...I allow my material strips to soak for a couple of minutes in a well shaken solution of Ballistol/water. When I take them out, I use a CONSISTENT procedure to allow excess solution to run off then lay them out on a large metal tray WITHOUT squeezing, wringing out, or anything that removes any of the solution.
I found that unless I used something like an old fashioned washing machine double roller clothes wringer contraption...(which I would absolutely do, if I had one)...I couldn't be sure I was applying the same pressure over the entire strip and thus removing the same amount of wetting solution on every strip, every time. :idunno: :idunno:
At this point, it's perfectly fine to point out that I'm most likely going Waaayyyy to far overboard in my concerns with minutiae/trivia. :grin:
I love this kind of stuff. :thumbsup:

 

[azmntman]

I have considered using a cheapo meat tenderizer contraption with rollers but then used an old book laying on the table, put strips under book and pull through, its weight & pressure are constant.