Barrel Browning Issue

[fishmusic]

I am using LMF browing solution on my GPR barrel. Even though the instructions say that degreasing is not needed I wiped the barrel down with acetone to get anything off. I applied the solution and suspended the barrel under a plastic tent over a bucket with damp rags and a trouble light and left it for three hours.

The initial result looked dismal with spots and streaks where the rusting was uneven. I forged on and applied three more coats but the finish did not even out.

I want to take the barrel back to bare metal. Before I remove all of that rusting I will ask advice on what the next step is.

Right now the barrel has been washed with baking soda to neutralize the solution. Most of it is a nice plum brown color but the uneven parts are quite visible.

 

[Zonie]

If I were you, I would give it a few more tries before I gave up assuming you don't have any areas that look like they are covered with copper.

If you apply several coats of the solution, overlapping them while the coats are wet, it will copper plate the metal. If that happens, the only way to get it to brown is to sand it all off and start all over again.

I think the uneven look is due to the way your providing the humidity. It's not the best but with a few more trys, it should all even out.

 

[longrifle78]

Make sure your tent isn't so humid that water is beading on the barrel. This time of year around my area they brown just fine laying in the shop.

 

[Cowboy]

When I used LMF on my Austin Halleck Mountain Rifle barrel it looked uneven and streaky for the first two or three coats. I thought I screwed it up, but after a few coats more it all evened out and came out looking pretty nice. If I were you I wouldn't give up just yet. I would give it two or three more coats and see how it turns out for you. Just my opinion. Hope it all works out for you anyhow. Respectfully, cowboys1062.

 

[Vaino]

Doesn't seem like 3 hours is enough time between coats. Also....for even a 46" bbl., the barely wetted patch's stroke along each bbl flat is interrupted once. Going back over areas produces a copper film which doesn't readily rust. One of the most important operations when browning is the carding....determines how "thick" the browning will be.

Using LMF is quite easy and produces a nice, finely etched brown. For neutralizing the brown, I use household ammonia....baking soda hasn't worked for me.....Fred

 

[Birddog6]

I never do less than 6 applications. and sometimes do 7 applications, carding en between applications every 3 hrs with a Dixcel Wheel from Brownells.

up to about 4 applications, mine always look mottled. After 5 it starts coming on strong & evening out well.

A few weeks ago I totally browned a barrel in less than 24 hrs., just outside under a awning. 7 treatments, 3 hrs between treatments, card with Dixel Wheel.
That seldom happens the temp be so high & humidity same & it all work out. Course with the heat & humidity we have had in July, you could about brown a barrel just about each day.

I've never had a problem getting barrels TO brown. Getting it Stopped has always been an issue. Took me a week to get this one to stop, and I tried everything I have heard of to get it to stop....... Boy it looks awesome now tho... :thumbsup:

Keith Lisle

 

[fishmusic]

Thanks, gents, for your advice. I will give it a few more applications of stuff and wait longer between applications.

Zonie, are you saying that there might not be enough humidity? I've read so many posts on browning with so many creative ways for temperature and humidity for the home builder that it seems to be subjective. How do you know when you have enough humidity?

Thanks again guys, I will keep on plugging.

 

[Stringbean]

Make sure you grease up the bore before leaving it in that much humidity. I too would try a few more coats and then leave it for a few days somewhere you can keep an eye on it.
String

 

[jerrywh]

what everybody else said is good advise but here is another tip. If you wipe the barrel down with acetone be sure the rag used in 100% cotton. Some synthetic rags will deposit melted polyester on the metal if used with acetone. Actually I have found that unleaded gasoline or mineral spirits works better for cleaning a barrel than acetone. Mineral spirits will take off wax. I never use any type of cleaner like simple green but others swear by it.

 

[Birddog6]

I bead blast the barrel, then wipe it down with electrical
cleaner or drake drum cleaner. It will remove all contamination.

Keith Lisle

 

[fishmusic]

Here are pictures of my issue after several more applications. http://s304.photobucket.com/user/kcheaston/media/DSC_0165_zpsfpjijrbe.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 http://s304.photobucket.com/user/kcheaston/media/DSC_0161_zps19dk0e2e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
Here is a picture of a good section: http://s304.photobucket.com/user/kcheaston/media/DSC_0164_zpsdot84v24.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4
I think that somewhere in the process I contaminated it. Any opinions?

 

[Pete G]

You may be trying to go at it too quickly. Looks like you may also be getting some condensation from the box. I would take it out of the box and build some more coats and let it sit a little longer between coats. Let it sit overnight before you card off the rust before applying the next coat. The worst that can happen is you sand it off and start over.