barrel finish
- Thread starter Billhuntz
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If you take 320 grit emery paper, tear it into one (1" ) strips, tightly wrap it around a flat piece of steel ( a fine finish file will work )
Then sand each flat from one end of the barrel to the other, do not work the sand paper across the flats, or round the corners of the flats. It will show up later.
Then use 600 grit paper, with a little oil.
In a short time all of the milling marks will be removed, and you will have a nicely finished barrel.
Wash with alcohol ( Shine), the drinking kind, 1/2 in you, 1/8 on the barrel, and the rest in you. Then you can either brown, blue, or let age.
If you wish to leave in the white, you may wish to age with clorox.
Best Regards
Old Ford
Then sand each flat from one end of the barrel to the other, do not work the sand paper across the flats, or round the corners of the flats. It will show up later.
Then use 600 grit paper, with a little oil.
In a short time all of the milling marks will be removed, and you will have a nicely finished barrel.
Wash with alcohol ( Shine), the drinking kind, 1/2 in you, 1/8 on the barrel, and the rest in you. Then you can either brown, blue, or let age.
If you wish to leave in the white, you may wish to age with clorox.
Best Regards
Old Ford
To rid the bbl of machining marks, I'd draw file which will really expedite the operation. Using a fine grit paper at the start is a lot of work and the more strokes it takes, the greater chance of rounding the surfaces. After draw filing, use 220 grit and then go w/ whatever grits yield the finish you want......Fred
Goldhunter
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+1 on draw filing.
Don't mean to hijack your thread, but I've been pondering the same thing. I'm building an Isaac Haines and have been tossing back and forth between leaving it in the white or browning it. I believe for this period, it should probably be left in the white, but I've concern over how the barrel would wear, particularly the area inlet into the stock, which would rarely get cleaned. Is there a good way to seal a barrel in the white?
Goldhunter
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Check here.
[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/200645[/url]/
[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/200645[/url]/
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IMO, if you leave your part soaking in deluted clorox for a day, you will have to sweep up the rusty blob with a sponge.
clorox is really nasty stuff when applied to a steel part. In less than a half an hour it can rust and pit the part so badly it will look like it was left in a cornfield for 30 years.
Be very careful with that stuff around anything of value.
zonie
clorox is really nasty stuff when applied to a steel part. In less than a half an hour it can rust and pit the part so badly it will look like it was left in a cornfield for 30 years.
Be very careful with that stuff around anything of value.
zonie
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If you draw file the barrel, be sure to use a single cut file. When you have the machine marks out, take some white chauk like you used in school on the black board and fill the teeth of the file with it and start draw fileing and it will give you a nice smooth burnished look. That is the way I was taught to do it in Machinist School.
Robert
Robert
BEP
40 Cal.
"Wash with alcohol ( Shine), the drinking kind, 1/2 in you, 1/8 on the barrel, and the rest in you. Then you can either brown, blue, or let age."
You're referring to the person doing the work at this point, right?? :rotf:
You're referring to the person doing the work at this point, right?? :rotf:
AeroncaTAL
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I used both bleach and naval jelly on the furniture on my Great Plains Rifle, "Old Friend", to pit and age the metal. I worked out real well.
The bleach was applied with a cotton applicator cold. I did not use boiling bleach. I value my lungs...
Scott
The bleach was applied with a cotton applicator cold. I did not use boiling bleach. I value my lungs...
Scott
Bill... Like a lot of the guys have noted, if you want to keep the barrel "white", draw file and wax. It will age over time.
Clorox is a good way to artificially age a barrel, but like was pointed out, be careful, it works fairly fast.
I've had excellent results with naval jelly. Cold blue the barrel first, then rub back with steel wool and naval jelly. You may have to repeat this process a couple/few times. It gives the barrel a nice gray finish. If you want to "age" the barrel, cold blue, then spray clorox on the barrel with a spray bottle. It will bead up and you can control the look a little more. Then rub back with steel wool and naval jelly.
Ed
Clorox is a good way to artificially age a barrel, but like was pointed out, be careful, it works fairly fast.
I've had excellent results with naval jelly. Cold blue the barrel first, then rub back with steel wool and naval jelly. You may have to repeat this process a couple/few times. It gives the barrel a nice gray finish. If you want to "age" the barrel, cold blue, then spray clorox on the barrel with a spray bottle. It will bead up and you can control the look a little more. Then rub back with steel wool and naval jelly.
Ed
