Barrel lug popped loose

[11th corps]

I took my T.O.W. northwest trade gun out of the cabinet to go to the range today. The barrel was raised up above the stock. I took it apart and discovered one of the barrel lugs (under the front sight) has popped off the barrel. I had Track solder these before shipping my kit.
Is their a better way to attach this. How about JB Weld? I don't really care that much about authenticity. I just want it to work.

 

I took my T.O.W. northwest trade gun out of the cabinet to go to the range today. The barrel was raised up above the stock. I took it apart and discovered one of the barrel lugs (under the front sight) has popped off the barrel. I had Track solder these before shipping my kit.
Is their a better way to attach this. How about JB Weld? I don't really care that much about authenticity. I just want it to work.

It doesn't take much of a dovetail to hold a barrel lug forever. And, it's the historically correct way to mount them. Since the hole is already drilled through this lug, I would get another one or make one out of brass or real then scrap iron and form it into a T shape and dovetail it in and then re-drill the pin hole. Most of these modern trade gun barrels are a whole lot thicker than the old originals and the old ones were dovetailed in. Just go real easy and don't file very deep. It will never come out again. :winking:
Hope this little trick helps out.
Don

 

[quinnconner]

On my own guns that I am building only for my own use, I use my wire welder in our garage and tack each end of the staple type tennon.Works great!Holds great and you wont see it under there.It aint a p.c. fix ,but that should work better than solder for you.J.B. Weld wont hold it...
J.J.

 

[shunka]

I have never had trouble with a "good" grade of silver solder and the proper cleaning, flux, etc. Hardware store "silver solder" has always been iffy for me. But brand names like "stay brite" (also used in silver jewelry) are good to 6000 psi or better, and low melt versions take about 600 to 700 deg F.
best
shunka

 

[LRB]

Solder it back. Who ever did the soldering just screwed up with that one. Common solder is all that is needed. I would strongly advise against dovetailing or welding, but you do what you want to do.

 

[Birddog6]

I would be more concerned on why the stock had enough pressure to pop the underlug off. It had to warp or have allot of pressure there to pop it off as it should have no stress on a lug or a Very litle amount if any......... :hmm:

 

[MikeChapin]

I'm assuming that this is on the thin, round portion of the barrel. I built a rifle that had a tapered barrel that was a little thin up front to put in dovetailed underlug so I soldered a thick piece of brass for the front lug. It came loose when I was building the rifle. I just resoldered another piece on and it has held fine.

I would just solder another underlug on. I would get a new one from TOW. No matter what I do I can not get the holes to line up right. Make sure to tin the barrel and the lug. Flux both pieces, clamp them together and heat to melt the solder. Drill a new pin hole and it should hold forever.

If you are not that comfortable with soldering then use JB Weld. It should work alright also.

 

[thomas]

I agree with Wick, just solder it back on. I've had to do this on two lugs from one well known maker & never had a problem after.

Thomas

 

[gordy]

As the others here have said,solder a new one on.I would however be curious as to what caused the preasure to seperate the stock away from the bbl. :front:

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I took my T.O.W. northwest trade gun out of the cabinet to go to the range today. The barrel was raised up above the stock. I took it apart and discovered one of the barrel lugs (under the front sight) has popped off the barrel. I had Track solder these before shipping my kit.
Is their a better way to attach this. How about JB Weld? I don't really care that much about authenticity. I just want it to work.

It doesn't take much of a dovetail to hold a barrel lug forever. And, it's the historically correct way to mount them. Since the hole is already drilled through this lug, I would get another one or make one out of brass or real then scrap iron and form it into a T shape and dovetail it in and then re-drill the pin hole. Most of these modern trade gun barrels are a whole lot thicker than the old originals and the old ones were dovetailed in. Just go real easy and don't file very deep. It will never come out again. :winking:
Hope this little trick helps out.
Don

With the thin round barrel, I would not recommend dove tailing. Soldiering one on is a rather easy affair, but, the regular JB Weld adhesive is very strong indeed, if one is unsure of soldiering skills.

 

[Stophel]

I would assume it was just a bad soldering job. When I solder on tenons, I can't knock them off with a hammer! (I can break the tenon though...)

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Ditto, I agree. All I ever use is the low temp silver bearing soldier, and it has always done a great job of holding.