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Barrel rust.

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Does Kroil dissipate after a while I have used it to brush a barrel but wiped it and then applied bore butter come back 3 months later and the bore butter looks as though it is absorbing rust. Soap and hot water I thought neutralized black powder. near the breach near touch hole take’s a lot of abuse and though scrubbed clean seam to still rust if I don’t excessively oil those areas so now LPS 3
 
There many wax or lanolin based spray lubes ,on the market, which are great for long term storage . Preservative /protectant lubes for saltwater fishing gear and outboard motors are worth looking at as well
 
There many wax or lanolin based spray lubes ,on the market, which are great for long term storage . Preservative /protectant lubes for saltwater fishing gear and outboard motors are worth looking at as well
Never thought about wax though I do use it to keep my table saw platform from rusting and it works very well. Thanks for reminding me of that!
 
I mentioned this before and hate to sound like a parrot but some might want to try what an old friend of mine does to store his M.Z. rifles ? He fills the barrel with melted Crisco Shortening. It doesn't take but a little heat to melt the Crisco and pour it in a container to be used again. He doesn't have a rust problem.
 
I ran into the same problem recently do to a run of extremely wet weather for several months, my gun safe is out in the garage and not in a climate controlled area. All my guns were stored with Barricade in the barrel, I wouldn't have seen the rust in most of them if I didn't have a Teslong bore scope. I cleaned all my guns, used rig in some and Butches' bore shine in others, the ones with the bore shine rusted again.

When I found more rust and cleaned my guns again a few days ago I started with a bore brush, then a squirt of WD-40 and a few patched to dry out the barrel. Next I coated a patch with JB bore shine and wrapped the patch around my bore brush and gave the offending barrels 50-100 strokes then more WD-40 and then patches to dry out the barrel, I followed the final lube with motor oil on patch.

When I started this latest cleaning I had slick shiny lands some surface rust in the grooves and a heavier build up of rust in the corners of the grooves and lands, the heaviest in this area was on my square bottom rifled barrels.

I had used a scotch bright patch on my initial cleaning before I found more rust but found that it didn't get into the corners of the grooves and lands, a JB Bore Paste or Bore Shine coated patch ( I use both products) wrapped around my cleaning brush did scrub this area as the instructions on the jar of product suggested.

I posted much of this info before and cautioned anyone putting a bore brush down their barrel to only use the type of bore brush on the left, the one on the right will come apart and leave the brush stuck in your barrel.

bore brush ferrule.JPG
 
Worked overseas for many years. My guns were unattended for 2-3 years at a time. The exterior metal and bores were protected with Militec-1. The safes had Golden Rods.

No gun ever rusted.

Militec-1 is now very expensive, i've switched to Mobil 1 engine oil.
 
Not that bad but it's brown! Rifles fired, cleaned, oiled and put away for a few years.
Happened to pull them out, ran a patch down the barrel and got "brown".
Both barrels are new or next to it.
Any ideas on how to get the "brown" out?
Rifling still sharp but it looks to be brown between the lands.
Both 50s percussions. (?)
Got after both with an oiled patch and wire bore brush.
Got one in 32 that looks like new so it didn't rust.
Maybe check barrels MORE OFTEN?? :oops:

Check barrels more often. That includes the barrels of any unmentionables you own. I check mine about every two weeks. Just checked the Hawken, patch came out nice and clean.
 
There is no reason to avoid petroleum grease for storage. It is a myth. We have all read and seen hundreds of cases of rusty ML barrels. I have not seen any credible evidence that petroleum grease and oils for rust protection is poison to BP when shooting later.

If you feel you must avoid petroleum, use Fluid Film. IT is lanolin based and works great too.
 
There is no reason to avoid petroleum grease for storage. It is a myth. We have all read and seen hundreds of cases of rusty ML barrels. I have not seen any credible evidence that petroleum grease and oils for rust protection is poison to BP when shooting later.

If you feel you must avoid petroleum, use Fluid Film. IT is lanolin based and works great too.
There used to be a gun storage/preservative product that must of been lanolin based, becuase it smelled like Fluid Film and my sheep. I can not find it now, but had excellent luck with it in my M/L.

I have not shied away from patroleum products for storage. When ready to shoot, a couple patches with 91% rubbing alcohol and it's 'squeeky clean'!
 
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If you get slight rust in a center fire barrel, a couple of shots usually take care of that. ;)
In a MZL, balls arn't that tight to get between the lands??? (to the rusty part)??
 
Does Kroil dissipate after a while I have used it to brush a barrel but wiped it and then applied bore butter come back 3 months later and the bore butter looks as though it is absorbing rust. Soap and hot water I thought neutralized black powder. near the breach near touch hole take’s a lot of abuse and though scrubbed clean seam to still rust if I don’t excessively oil those areas so now LPS 3
Kroil is wonderful for loosening rust - as in absolutely frozen parts - screws, bolts, even old gun locks. It does dissipate somewhat over time in my experience. I've just finished using it on an old Dixie Moutain rifle purchased via internet auction. The lock was completely rusted, frozen. Barrel felt like inside of an encrusted water pipe. Many patches/swabbing with copper kitchen scrubbing wool, brushes and KROIL the "red" finally disappeared. It does "creep" into threads if allowed to soak a bit.

New Kroil product - "SiliKroil" contains silicone. Just bought a can. Also Kroil with graphite is pretty neat for some things. Expensive but a little goes a long way.
 
I have tried to stay clear of petroleum products for lubing my locks and triggers. Tried mink oil last winter, but it seemed that at -20F and below it was too stiff for the flintlocks. Trying Dixie's synthetic whale oil this winter. Will report results when it gets cold.
 
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