Barrel staples

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bioprof

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I just installed some barrel staples (loops) that I purchased from TOW. They seem to hold okay, but are kind of floppy. Is this the way the are supposed to be, or should I add some solder to help them stand up straight? I drilled them with an 1/8" drill about 0.100 inch deep, and staked them with a staking tool from the same supplier.

Just wondering if anyone else has any experience with these. This is my second precarve that I'm assembling and still learnin.
 
Sounds like your drill was too big. I make my staples out of finishing nails, about .100 in diameter, and use a numbered drill to drill that size. Track's catalog, page 262, says drill holes about .120" in diameter (#34 or 1/8") for thick keys. The thin key staple says use .109 or 7/64" drill. Assume you had the thick key one. If they are loose and stakeing doesn't tighten them, I'd solder them. Have done so, in fact. I wouldn't want them loose.
 
I usually use dovetails rather than loops, however have used a few loops. I mic them first & then go just a couple of thousands larger than the heads on the ends of the loops.

In your case I would take a centerpunch & stake them on each side of the head & in front of it & close up the gap, and if need be 2 more stakes in between the other stakes.

:results:
 
I couldn't find a numbered drill, so used a 1/8" drill, which is just a hair larger. I could probably stake them some more, but I didn't want to pound on the barrel too much and take the chance of deforming the barrel.

The good news is that my alignment with the barrel keys looks like it is about perfect. That was one thing that I was sweating about, but I measured three different ways to determine the drill holes, so I guess I must have done it right.
 
You can buy just about Any type or size of drill from MSC or KBS tools. Some of the NAPA stores carry letter drills & also Enko carries letter drill sets. Possibly Grizzly tools also.

:results:

PS: It is Critical the hole you drill for the vent or nipple be the CORRECT size.......... :imo:
 
Try restaking them. You aren't going to flatten the barrel.
The idea of using a seperate punch to drive the metal up tight to the staple is a good one too.

Some of my early guns were just stapled. I've never had one pull out yet, and I have shot those guns quite a lot.
On the other hand, I have lately taken to soldering them in place after staking. It's just a little extra, and maybe not needed, but I think it results in a better gun.

I use lead/tin solder for these joints because it takes less heat than the silver/tin types of solder. :)
 
Had the same problem w/ the TOTW staking took, for the same reason: I was afraid to hit it too hard. After the staples fell out, I reinserted them & pounded harder. It worked. You don't need enough to drive it through the barrel, but you do need to make a good dent. Also,I file a notch in the staple leg just a bit lower than level w/ the barrel flat. Gives a bit more bite.
 
Thanks guys. I'll try out your suggestions. So far I'm pleased with how it's going. I am working on a Kit Carson Hawkins rifle from TOW. It has a fancy curly maple stock that I got for half price because of a couple of small knots and I picked up a barrel from L.C. for a bill. I will need to buy more parts soon so I can continue to work on it.

I've already got my next project planned, even though I only have barely started on this one. My next project is going to be a longrifle. I picked up another stock for 1/2 price because of a single mineral stain on the forestock. I figure that I can cover it up if I use a darker color stain. Will aqua fortis cover up mineral stains? It looks like it has fairly even curl over the entire length of the stock. :: I guess I've been bitten by the bug. :front:
 
Saw the head off a 2" finishing nail. I filed a notch on the inside of the fixed jaw of my Versa Vise near the top right edge, .2" long. Place the sawed end in this notch and tighten the vise. (I also filed a notch around the jaw and on the back side). Hammer the nail around the vise jaw and the back side. Mark it for length and snip or saw it off. Tap the legs parallel if needed. Then I place it in a jig made from a piece of 1/4" steel, with the .1 inch holes drilled on half inch centers. Drive the staple into this (grooved between holes) and file off any protrusion. Tap it out. Staple now has legs 1/2" on centers (same as Track's center punching tool). The legs are .2 long. I slightly champfer the ends and cut a little shelf like Fergetful Jones does. Locate where I want them on the bottom flat of the barrel (very important!). They can be placed to the edge of the flat if they would otherwise come through the ramrod groove.
Center punch for the holes. I set the barrel in a vise in the drill press, bottom flat up, level both ways. Put in the .1 drill in the chuck and make sure it runs true. (Mike the nails, they vary in size. Use a No. 39, .0995, file the nail to this size if needed, or if the nails are smaller, use a smaller drill.) Adjust the table so the quill in full down position just lets the drill touch the centerpunch hole. Then loosen the vise and place a .1 inch thick shim under the barrel, which raises it the .1 inch the drill is to cut into the barrel. Drill that hole and reposition for the second one. Repeat for the other (two) staples, keeping the barrel level both ways. Tap the staples in lightly, with a piece of .1 nail (which will be your stock pin) inside the loop, as a gauge to be sure the staple is down in the holes. Stake around them with a center punch to crowd steel over the foot of each. I file the top of the staple off (which is the bottom when in the stock) to thin it so it is less likely to come through the ramrod channel. You can also file inside to loosen it if needed. If you have a 3/4 or 13/16 inch barrel, you might not want to drill that deep a hole, but being on the edge of the flat leaves more barrel steel below the hole.
 

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