barrel tenons

[Trot]

Hi I am a new guy here, looks like a good place. I am starting to build a NW trade gun. What kind of solder should I use to attach the barrel tenons? Thanks in advance, I am sure I will be back more than a few times before this project is finished!

 

[TwoShadows]

Most muzzleloading supply houses will have silver solder and flux together in a kit that works well. I get mine from the Frontier Shop...but ToTW will have it too. I'm not sure right off the top of my head what the #'s are on it, but when you tell them what you want it for they will know and send you the right stuff. oh, and welcome to the forum.

 

[hound dog]

I have been using lead solder for 30 years and I have never had a tenon or sight come off or be knocked off that I know of. Understand, that you have to do a top notch soldering job, cleaning as well as heating both pieces so the solder flows easily and coats both parts. I don't silver solder because of the heat required to melt the silver and flow it onto each part. You have to heat both pieces to a near red heat and anything over this may scale the inside of the barrel and ruin it. It just isn't worth the risk to silver solder. If you're unsure about your soldering talents you can always cut a dovetail and install your barrel tenons that way, even on a round barrel.
h dog

 

[TwoShadows]

Hound Dog, I respectfully disagree. I too have a large number of years of soldering under my belt, and have lost a barrel tennon right in the middle of an important match, and almost lost the years high score at my local club. (This was not one of my solder joints by the way!) There are many LOW TEMPERATURE silver solders out there now that most all gunmaker supply houses keep in stock. No need for red hot parts to make it work. I would assume that the tennons would be installed before any blueing/browning takes place, so any slight discoloration is easily cleaned up. I have never encountered any flaking using the above mentioned low-temp silver solder. It doesnt even discolor the bore at all.I would much rather put my trust in a soldering job that try to cut dovetails in a round barrel where barrel thickness might be an issue.

 

I use the stake style tenons. I drill the holes just large enough for the tenon legs to be tapped into the hole and then use a small, curved cold chisel to drive the edges of the hole down to fasten the clip. I have only built a few rifles but have never had one move.

 

[LRB]

Two shadows is right. I think one problem with silver solders is that the type twoshadows refers to, should be called silver bearing solder rather than silver solder. The silver bearing solder flows at less heat than does 50/50 lead solder and is much stronger and just as easy to work with. I use it regularly for common solder projects. Most people do not use enough flux and fail to get a good flow by uneven heat between the two parts to be joined. STAYBRITE silver solder flows at 430o if I remember right, also if I remember right, it, and those like it, only have 5% silver in them, but thats enough to give them greater strength. I would never use the drilled type tennons on a smooth bore!

 

[Zonie]

The high temperature "Silver Solder" is more properly called Silver Braze material. Depending on its alloy it requires temperatures in the 1200-1400 degree F range.

The Low Temperatue "Silver Solders" are mainly Tin with a little bit of Silver in them.
These are stronger than any Lead/Tin type solders and flow in the 430-600 degree F range (depending on the alloy).

I have had good results with both but the Lead/Tin joint needs a lot of surface area in contact to make a really strong joint.

 

[quinnconner]

I clamp my tennon where I want it and then use my wire welder and give it a little spot weld here and later over there, until I am happy with it.It is low heat and you can wrap your hand around the barrel and tennon soon after they are done.I use the staple type and then spot weld a little on each end of the staples.I have never had any come loose or move.That isnt the correct way to do it, but it sure works for me.Once they are in the barrel channel, you dont see them again anyway.I have done this on many guns including a .75 rifled getz barrel,a swamped colerain barrel, a 4 bore blunderbuss barrel, and soon a Jackie Brown smoothbore kit.Never any flaking or hot spots or anything.
J.Jack