Bazinga!!!!!! Cracked.... What to do?

[rp77469]

Cyanoacrylate, (Super Glue!!) Comes fast or slow set, thick or thin. Gets into places you hadn't intended.
The fumes will really get to you.
The fumes are used to see/read fingerprints. by the good guys to catch the bad guys.
They make stuff to "unglue your fingers" from what you were trying to glue.
Thin CA will run into a crack and start out the other side before you can get your fingers out of the way.
They make accelerator to speed up slowing setting Super Glue that fits YOUR application.
There are ALL KINDS of Super Glue to stick ANYTHING together.
CA is the way to go.

I am much more a woodworker than a gun builder. CA made a great finish back in the day I was turning a lot of pens. I want to share a CA trueism many woodworkers have learned the hard way...

NEVER leave the debonder farther away than you can drag the workbench. (You do NOT need the details of how I gained that little bit of wisdom.) Have a great day.

 

[45man]

I have repaired hundreds of stocks over the years and I use only Accra Glass. CA is for model airplanes.

 

[reddogge]

I have repaired hundreds of stocks over the years and I use only Accra Glass. CA is for model airplanes.

The pros who repair recurves and longbows use it on parts that flex and work. So no, it's not just for model airplanes. Locktite 420 is what they use.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I have repaired hundreds of stocks over the years and I use only Accra Glass. CA is for model airplanes.

Only if YOU have never used it.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

CA is great for glueing back a piece of wood that has chipped out. Accra Glass is good if you don't mind waiting all day for it to cure so you can get back to work.

 

[IanH]

CA is great for glueing back a piece of wood that has chipped out. Accra Glass is good if you don't mind waiting all day for it to cure so you can get back to work.

Put a 60-watt bulb close to it while you go for lunch and it will be ready to work when you get back.

 

[54ball]

I’m typing in bold because this has been resolved.
The long crack wound up being dust and shavings on the shop floor.
I was impressed with the Loctite liquid CA. I did use use a make shift spreader to force it down right after application.
I was impressed with the penetration and it was a good repair.
I suppose it fully penetrated at lest a full 1/4 inch. The thinner CAs like Hot Stuff or Star Bond may penetrate even better.

There’s just a little of the “big” crack left and it too will likely wind up as dust as I finish the cheek.

I’m confident that the small crack at the plate is repaired.

Thanks for the input.

I would recommend CA for a repair like this.....a crack you cannot clamp.

 

[deerstalkert]

54, I for one would love to see the finished product. glad it didn't go up in smoke.
one hint when using CA is to stain the crack with a water base stain before using the glue.
I have not been able to get CA to take any stain. someone smarter than me thought up the stain first. ( our own comfortably numb/AKA Mike Brooks.)

 

[Brokennock]

Do they still make "Zap-A-Gap" CA glue? It came in thick (which wasn't as thick as the gel CA glues we see now) and thin. The thin ran like water and would soak into wood and pour into cracks. The hobby place that used to carry it here is no more. (Such a shame, they were around before my dad was born in 1948, he built an HO gauge train layout for them as a teen, they closed shop this past year)

 

[PathfinderNC]

Good!
Did you reinforce it with a dowel or rod to help stabilize the stock from further cracking or splitting?

 

[54ball]

Good!
Did you reinforce it with a dowel or rod to help stabilize the stock from further cracking or splitting?

No I did not.
Really I don’t know if it wold do any good.
The worm track runs through the buttstock at an angle most of it is shallow on the cheek side. Since most of it has been cut away.
A dowel or rod would just be in the good wood.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have used a lot of thin Zap-A- Gap in bow building to fill cracks, it is so thin it takes multiple applications to fill a crack but it really soaks into the wood. I couldn't find it locally so I bought it off eBay.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

Zap-A-Gap is a brand name. They all come thick or thin, fast or slow set. "Thick" WILL fill a crack and you can spray it with accelerator to get it to set faster. The more you use the more you see what works best for YOU.
And like @ rp77459 mentioned, debonder is a MUST and kept close by!!
Stain the crack first? Good idea.

 

[Brokennock]

I have used a lot of thin Zap-A- Gap in bow building to fill cracks, it is so thin it takes multiple applications to fill a crack but it really soaks into the wood. I couldn't find it locally so I bought it off eBay.

Yeah. When I was messing around with building bows thats when I learned about it. Great stuff,,, but that thin can be dangerous.

Zap-A-Gap is a brand name. They all come thick or thin,

True to a point. That brand's "thin" is thinner and with less viscosity than any other brand I've tried.

 

[Nor Cal Mikie]

True to a point. That brand's "thin" is thinner and with less viscosity than any other brand I've tried.

They ALL put their name of bulk CA. Just like washing machines or canned beans.
They will go a big producer, say "I want 2oz. bottles of CA. How much for 1000 ea, with MY name on it"?
Same with washing machines. I'll take 5000 with these features and My name on them. How much?
Canned beans? Same thing. I want 5000 each with my name on it. How much? Better price with more? Make that 10,000 ea.
LARGE Model shop gets CA in the sizes THEY want it with their name on it from who knows where.
Try them all till you find what YOU like. I do know if you keep in the freezer, it will keep just about forever. Been out of the model building for years but the two bottles of CA in my freezer are still ready to go.
Had a couple of quick glue jobs and the CA did it's thing even after being in cold storage for YEARS.

 

[45man]

I have to admit that I always have CA on my bench and it does work on wood but I forever complain about how many things it fails to fix too.
I use carbon arrows with my Ravin cross bow and I found the inserts are held in with Ca. Every time I shoot a deer, the insert will be missing along with the broadhead and the shaft is full of dirt. The impact breaks the bond and when the vanes slow the arrow hrough the deer the insert leaves along with at least one vane. I make a new insert and use epoxy.

 

[Two Feathers]

Howdy:
I'm a firm believer in NEVER waste ANYTHING and save anything you can, but sometimes you gotta' know when to say when?
FWIW.
Merry Christmas.
God bless:
Two Feathers

 

[reddogge]

I have to admit that I always have CA on my bench and it does work on wood but I forever complain about how many things it fails to fix too.
I use carbon arrows with my Ravin cross bow and I found the inserts are held in with Ca. Every time I shoot a deer, the insert will be missing along with the broadhead and the shaft is full of dirt. The impact breaks the bond and when the vanes slow the arrow hrough the deer the insert leaves along with at least one vane. I make a new insert and use epoxy.

Yes, two part SLOW epoxy works best on arrow inserts. I can still remove them with a little heat on the head putting a drill bit in the shaft and swinging the arrow, use it like a ram to remove the insert.