Beeswax lube proportion tip

[Brokennock]

I have always just winged it with proportions for my beeswax and olive oil lubes, sometimes having to remelt and add more wax or more oil. Because I buy my wax in large blocks, and usually make very small portions of lube at a time, I had wondered about a good way to measure the amount of wax so I could compare it to the amount of oil. I also didn't have a double boiler I wanted to sacrifice to the cause. I recently found and aluminum double boiler at a thrift store, and I try to avoid cooking food in aluminum pots anymore. So, this one cane be used for non-food crafts.
Came up with this idea so that I can now easily create 1:1, 2:1, oil:wax ratio lubes, or whatever ratio seems to work best, and be able to repeat it.

Decided to soak some cushion wads while I was at it for Skychief load testing. Coated them in a thin layer of wax to reduce the mess and see if they work the same.


I usually make 2 different products of 2 different consistencies. A softer more spreadable lube with a half a part of Murphy's Oil Soap added at the end while the oil:wax mixture cools, for use as a lube for wads or patches, and a stiffer more wax based one that I use for things like protecting metal parts and sealing the pan on wet hunts.
I melted some coconut oil and filled some more plastic shot glasses to the same level as these with the wax and let them solidify. I figure while I'm trying new things I'll try the coconut oil for the lube. I used the refined coconut oil that I buy anyway for skin issues and food that I don't want to taste like coconut. It seems less sticky than olive oil or unrefined coconut oil.

Those plastic shot glasses are cheap in bulk and actually handled the heat well. I did smear a very thin film of olive oil inside each one before pouring the wax so the cooled wax released easily.

 

[Historian]

Good thinking on the plastic shot glasses. I will have to try that myself. BTW, have you tried using wool felt instead of the fiber wads? I made that switch and patterns really improved.

 

[Brokennock]

Good thinking on the plastic shot glasses. I will have to try that myself. BTW, have you tried using wool felt instead of the fiber wads? I made that switch and patterns really improved.

I use wool felt under the shot. Lubed. The fiber wads are for the Skychief Special load, as stated. They go in last.

 

[smo]

BN,
I never used any kind of wax in my bore, Although I know many do.

My question is , will soap and water remove the wax that remains in the bore?

I did shoot Bore Butter & Pyrodex, back 35-40 years ago, which didn’t turn out well for my gun.

Since then I’ve sworn off anything waxy in my barrels, But that’s just me.

I feel the issues I had back then was the combination of the two...
Warm water and soap wouldn’t get it all out..

It more or less just formed a hard crust inside the rifling causing the gun too shoot erratically after awhile.

So now don’t use either.

Just curious if alcohol or some other solvent was needed too get any residual wax out?
There has too be some remaining , doesn’t it?

 

[Brokennock]

BN,
I never used any kind of wax in my bore, Although I know many do.

My question is , will soap and water remove the wax that remains in the bore?

I did shoot Bore Butter & Pyrodex, back 35-40 years ago, which didn’t turn out well for my gun.

Since then I’ve sworn off anything waxy in my barrels, But that’s just me.

I feel the issues I had back then was the combination of the two...
Warm water and soap wouldn’t get it all out..

It more or less just formed a hard crust inside the rifling causing the gun too shoot erratically after awhile.

So now don’t use either.

Just curious if alcohol or some other solvent was needed too get any residual wax out?
There has too be some remaining , doesn’t it?

I usually swab with alcohol at home before heading to the range anyway to remove any residual oils or other things that could foul a load. I can't say the wax causes any additional cleaning issues. I don't use much wax for the stuff that goes in the bore. Just enough to hold the oils in place and keep things from being runny, it is much easier to manage carrying a tin of lube that stays put than it is a container of liquid. Seeing as it doesn't take much more than the warmth of my hands and a little friction to melt the lube, it cleans up pretty easy, the Murphy's Oil Soap probably helps with that too.

 

[smo]

Thanks, I just wasn’t sure how much , if any the wax was an issue.

I swab with denatured alcohol prior too my first load.

My hunting patches are lightly dampened with olive oil and kept in a small tin.

You can feel the oil, but they’re not damp by the time I use them.

For woods walks I use patches lightly dampened in the same manner with Hornadys One Shot.