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jbwilliams3

45 Cal.
Joined
Dec 23, 2006
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My question is a broad one: What essentials do I need to get started with my rifle? powder, balls, and patches of course I'm getting... but as far powder measures, primers, pullers, etc... what do I need? Oh, it's a .45 cal long rifle...
Thanks so much
 
A valve is not essential but remember to never load directly from your powder horn. Always use a separate measure.

A good patch knife will help you a lot, short starter, range rod, something to carry everything in.

A few cans of powder,different brands so you can see what works best in your rifle. I found that switching to Swiss gave me the best accuracy.
 
Thanks a ton. Where would you find an 18th century correct powder measure/primer? also, any good source for patch knives? thinkin about one at dixiegunworks
product_info.php
 
JB,
There is an infinite number of accessories and accoutrements that you can get, but keep it as simple as possible until you get a feel for what you are doing and how you'd like to do it.
rifle
powder
caps (if percussion)
balls
patches
lube
short starter
ball puller
powder measure, (as noted above, NEVER charge from a horn or other container) The measure also enables you to fine tune your loads to find out what your rifle prefers.
Do a search on MLF. This question has been discussed relatively recently.

Welcom, have fun
bramble
 
If you know the size pre cut square patches will likely do as well as cut at the muzzle ones and are easier to load, a piece of antler or bone drilled to the right volume makes a nice inexpensive measure, often one can work up a good load that does not need a short starter, there will be many hours of enjoyment figuring out what you like and what works best for you and your gun.
 
If you are relatively handy with tools, you can make many of the accouterments yourself. Would not go buying until you were well grounded as to likes and dislikes.
 
jbwilliams said:
My question is a broad one: What essentials do I need to get started with my rifle? powder, balls, and patches of course I'm getting... but as far powder measures, primers, pullers, etc... what do I need? Oh, it's a .45 cal long rifle...
Thanks so much

Looking at the other responses, they as I are assuming that you have a slow twist on your relatively long barrel, say 1:56 or higher. Are we correct in that? If not let us know that will make a difference on what you shoot.

You already have a good list from previous posts here on what you need. Only thing I might add, if you are new to this, is the powder charge necessary. If you are shooting a .44 ball out of a .45 your best starting point will be just slightly more than 50 grains of Fffg. The load is figured on the old stand-by rule of 3 grains of powder for every 7 grains of weight of the projectile. If you can find the real stuff, black powder by all means get in the habit of using that. If you have to use Pryodex, it would be the green lable stuff, or Pryodex P that you need.
 
jbwilliams said:
Thanks a ton. Where would you find an 18th century correct powder measure/primer?

Probably the most correct method of primimg a flintlock is directly from the main horn. Use 3F powder and it will do both in a .45. Otherwise, a very small horn with 4F.

Keep it simple. As you get into this you will find certain things are available that are without merit, and a lot of other things are easily made or come by. Remember, flintlocks and percussion rifles were used by all levels of society. Some used the finest equipment built by professionals, and others did with what they had to fashion accessories themselves.

I'd recommend the cheapest adjustable measure you can find, even plastic. Once you have a load worked up THEN invest in a good fixed measure or make one out of horn, bone or antler. Below is one of turkey thigh bone with a cherry wood plug. Takes about an hour to make one. (The vent pick is "forged" from coat hanger wire).

IM000642.jpg


I put together my patch knife for $12.00 with a Dixie Bruseletto blade, a nail and an antler crown from a whitetail. The sheath is from leather scraps I had on hand. The one you linked to looks like a good, servicable knife. Some guys prefer a multi-function knife, while others want one always sharp just for patches. I have field dressed deer with mine.

Patchknife.jpg


Patch material - cotton. Never use synthetic (it melts). I get cotton pillow tick or mattress tick at Joanne's fabrics. Ox-Yoke sells patch material in strips or full width material. You can use Crisco shortening as a lube to get you started. Everyone gravitates towards a favorite, but the important thing is what shoots well in your rifle and is easy for you to load/store/clean-up. We all have differents likes and dislikes. Below is my knife, a leather pouch of pre-lubed and dried cotton patching (pouch is made of waxed deerskin), a mint tin with the paint burned off using a propane torch of my grease lube, a McCormick's vanilla extract bottle of homemade moose milk for cleaning, a ball-block I made of walnut and a measure I made from deer antler.

Moosestuff.jpg


Track of the Wolf and Dixie sell powder horn kits. Definately the less expensive way to go and not a difficult project. Everyone should try their hand at it. I made the one below with a base plug from Dixie and a horn from Tandy.

IM000584.jpg
 
A good patch lube is essential. If you just HAVE to shoot that rifle before you can find the best commercially made patch lube, spit is as good as any, and better than most.

Just stick a coupla patches in your mouth and suck on 'em while you are loading.

Unsalted crisco works pretty well as a patch lube too.

Any dillute soap and water mix is all that is necessary for cleaning. Just make sure to dry the bore WELL before applying a bore preservative.

Another suggestion, avoid using any petroleum based grease or oil in your bore, with the exception fo BreakFree CLP. Most petroleum base products form a heavy tar under the heat of burning powder, so they are NOT good for use with any ML gun. BreakFree is formulated to prevent that hard carbon fouling.

Balistol is a good bore preservative too.

Run through the various forums in the index. MAny threads will contain the information you will need to know.
J.D.
 
This has been very helpful. Yes, as much as I can I'm trying to avoid unnecesary expenses. I always attempt to adapt old rubbish into useable equipement. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Of course, I'm not experienced at making any period equipement so for a while I'll have to make due without some things, or borrow around. For my patch knife for now, I think I'll stick with a blade I purchased for dirt cheap from a gun show a week ago.
I have been eyeing some good period knives for some time as I've always used only good useable cutlery, but at the gun show I found a man selling extremely cheap rough forged butcher knives, one of which was a very plain looking blade in the english trade style. I'm using an old sheath I found that hides the handle half way up. Anyhow, it's not a great knife in any sense, but that's one example of how I'm trying to make due for now! Thanks a lot, folks. Oh, and Merry Christmas
 
I make as much as I can from scratch. Example: the pic show a horn and patch knife that I made. Knife blade is from a worn out 8" mill file. I shaped it wtih a grinder adn a sander. Keep it cool so as not to change temper/hardness. Works great, really holds an edge.
Horn was hand scrapped and sanded Plug ends hand shaped. Strap was an old rein from a horse's bridle.
Hope this helps
accruements001.jpg
 
Here are a couple links you will find loaded with information. Bob Spencer at "Bob's Black Powder Notebook" gives a great feel for the sport and is a very entertaining writer while dispensing some terrific information.
[url] http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/[/url]

At "Bill's World" click the bullet hole links, the one to "Buckskinner's Notebook" is especially helpful and can answer many questions you may have.
[url] http://www.buckskinnerweb.com/pastgate/past.htm[/url]
 
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This has been extremely helpful, as has been this whole forum. Great link, there by the way. I look forward to learning from this and my own experience for years to come.
 
olive oil for lube, flannel bedsheets, cotton night gowns and such for patches(got to mic them to find thickness) paring knife to temporarily get you by for the patch knife, trimmed down 30-06 caases can be used for volumetic measures, your mind and imagination are endless.
I have found purses at goodwill that made excellent possibles bags ect.

...but dont scrimp on powder, aps and cleaning methods!
 
brett sr said:
I have found purses at goodwill that made excellent possibles bags ect.

I get grief from my kids all of the time that my possibles bag is nothing more than a "man purse". You have done nothing to help me out here with this bit of information. :rotf:
 
J.R. said:
brett sr said:
I have found purses at goodwill that made excellent possibles bags ect.

I get grief from my kids all of the time that my possibles bag is nothing more than a "man purse". You have done nothing to help me out here with this bit of information. :rotf:


my head hangs in shame :( but it works! I got 2 of the Tandy purse kits from GW,funny,its thesame one they sellas the muzzleloaders bag. ya,man purse,I can live with that!
 
:haha: I can sympathize... My Scottish attire that I don from time to time, for special occasions, is complimented by stockings that belonged to my sister and girlscout flashes... I'm so glad you said that about the possibles bag- I'm always seeing "man purses" that to my eye look like they'd be great for that- I feel better about thinking it now
 
I'm got a ton of different cal. shell casings i've used for measuring powder in a miniature parrot cannon I have- specific cal. shell casing that would work well for a measure for a .45 cal. rifle??? or is that something I have to feel out?
 
As stated somewhere above, get an adjustable measure to start with so you can find the load that works best with the rifle. Messing with powder loads isn't something to be guessing at, for accuracy or saftey. Once you find a good load then you can make your "permanent" measure. I use a .45 auto case for my pistols, I had to cut it down, something I would not have known if I hadn't worked the adjustable measure first.
 
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