Bending the hammer

[Nobade]

I have been messing with a L&R replacement lock in my Dixie squirrel rifle for a number of years without any real joy. I've polished up everything inside, played with several frizzens and various hardening techniques, and nothing I had done made it any better than maybe 50% successful. The problem as I saw it was when the hammer was at rest, the flint was pointing at the frizzen pivot and not the pan. So along comes the April 2022 issue of Muzzle Blasts and the article about bending the hammer to get better geometry. Ah Ha! Except I have a double throated hammer that can't be bent. So I called L&R, and they do have a hammer that will work in this lock. I ordered one and it came in quickly. It had the same deal going on, but I was able to get it hot enough with a Mapp gas torch to bend it, and I closed it up about .100" so it just clears the fence. I did have to file the bridle slightly so the tumbler wouldn't hit it since the hole was not in quite the same orientation but otherwise it fit. Put it back together and now the flint hits about half way down on the frizzen and throws a huge shower of sparks right into the pan. It should also be easier on flints since now it's a big scrape instead of crashing into the frizzen. I tried it with priming powder and it was 100% for 10 shots. I think I am going to be able to finally enjoy this rifle and super happy it's working now. Something to pay attention to if you have a unreliable flintlock.

 

[hanshi]

Your perseverance has apparently paid off. Glad you got that taken care of.

 

[Nobade]

Thanks. The rain finally stopped so I got to go outside and shoot it a bit. Works every time and is really fast now. That little change sure made a difference. And now after 25 shots the flint doesn't show any wear. Neat!

 

[ShootistJack]

I think I am going to be able to finally enjoy this rifle and super happy it's working now.

Congratulations on working your way to SUCCESS !

 

[Cpt Flint]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

 

[deerstalkert]

have a TC Hawken that i had to do the same treatment to. stock configuration it wouldn't throw a single spark. now it is my most reliable rock lock. 200 shots and not one Klatch.

 

[Nobade]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

That's great except no other lock made that I have been able to find will fit that rifle. I would have to restock it if I wanted a better lock so I was kind of stuck working with what is available.

 

[ohio ramrod]

As they say :"try, try, and try again" You kept trying until you fixed the problem.

 

[Ballshooter]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

My L&R lock has been very reliable and seems to be of good quality.

 

[Timber Wolf]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

I am one of the unknowing and ignorant of which you speak. Please educate me on suitable and available alternatives. Links would be nice.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

I guess I need to reveal my ignorance. I use the L&R Late English lock in my Derringer rifle and the L&R Manton lock in my SMR. While these may be of lesser quality than a finely tuned Roller lock, Chambers lock or Kibler lock, they are not junk. They do need a bit of tuning up to improve upon the as delivered condition. My locks are fast and reliable.

 

[stank]

I have a pedersoli harpers ferry pistol that I cut and bent the cock. Works better but not a lock to brag about

 

[M. De Land]

I guess I need to reveal my ignorance. I use the L&R Late English lock in my Derringer rifle and the L&R Manton lock in my SMR. While these may be of lesser quality than a finely tuned Roller lock, Chambers lock or Kibler lock, they are not junk. They do need a bit of tuning up to improve upon the as delivered condition. My locks are fast and reliable.

I agree as all the right stuff is present to make a good lock it just needs some tuning and tweaking to get the best out of them. I'm reminded of a quote in the Boyers Bible by one of the authors who stated "You can make a bow of very average wood but if you design it right and perfectly tiller it you will have an excellent long lasting bow but on the other hand you can have perfect Bowdark or Yew stave and wind up with a crummy bow that will break the first time out if poorly designed and tillered." I believe the L&R locks are in about the same situation.

 

[Jason holgate]

Great post thanks

 

[smoothshooter]

I have been messing with a L&R replacement lock in my Dixie squirrel rifle for a number of years without any real joy. I've polished up everything inside, played with several frizzens and various hardening techniques, and nothing I had done made it any better than maybe 50% successful. The problem as I saw it was when the hammer was at rest, the flint was pointing at the frizzen pivot and not the pan. So along comes the April 2022 issue of Muzzle Blasts and the article about bending the hammer to get better geometry. Ah Ha! Except I have a double throated hammer that can't be bent. So I called L&R, and they do have a hammer that will work in this lock. I ordered one and it came in quickly. It had the same deal going on, but I was able to get it hot enough with a Mapp gas torch to bend it, and I closed it up about .100" so it just clears the fence. I did have to file the bridle slightly so the tumbler wouldn't hit it since the hole was not in quite the same orientation but otherwise it fit. Put it back together and now the flint hits about half way down on the frizzen and throws a huge shower of sparks right into the pan. It should also be easier on flints since now it's a big scrape instead of crashing into the frizzen. I tried it with priming powder and it was 100% for 10 shots. I think I am going to be able to finally enjoy this rifle and super happy it's working now. Something to pay attention to if you have a unreliable flintlock.

I do not know why L & R can’t get hings like that right before the locks leave their shop.
It should be simple.
Assemble a lock that works perfectly. Put it on display in the work area.
Then make all subsequent locks geometrically like the perfect one.

 

[PathfinderNC]

The solution to your problem is to never use an L&R lock in the first place. They are considered to be junk by good builders and shooters. The unknowing can now reveal their ignorance.

Sais the spokesperson for “good builders and shooters”

 

[Crow#21957]

Good deal Nobade