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Bess loads for blank and live fire

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kration

32 Cal.
Joined
Jun 13, 2007
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I have a Longland Bess from MVT & after refinishing it I'm about ready to start shooting. Can someone give me advice as to loads for both blankfire and livefire? I've tried to search the forum but due to a problem with my settings it's not working for me.
Thanks for any help
Kration
 
There are blanks, and then there are " blanks". There are specific rules for re-enactor groups about what constitutes a " Blank" in that situation. NO wadding is allowed on top of the powder, for instance.

So, can you please tell us what you are wanting the loads to do? Are you shooting a replica Brown Bess, or an original? It makes a difference. Are you shooting a cloth Patched round ball, or a paper cartridge RB? It makes a difference. Are you shooting targets or hunting? Are you shooting shot loads? Do you want a powder and load for such work? Or are you just going to shoot RB loads for " live fire "?

There is plenty of advice on loading data for the Bess replicas on this forum. You just have to know how to find it. I am sure members will respond to your question, but if you answer mine, they will save us all a lot of trouble trying to give you the information you actually are wanting.
 
I guess I have fired more than a few blank rounds and often enough the live rounds to have an opinion.

I want to have a blank load that has a decent report and is still safe. Most places that require the blank loads also require that its powder only down the barrel.

I roll a paper cartridge using the instructions here or in books such as Sketch Book '76. The power charge is 95 grains of black powder. I use an old shotgun dipper that measure is set to 3 1/2 drams. I like to mix even volumes of 3fg and 2fg to get a faster ignition and a louder report. On the safety side, only use one charge. I can speak from experience that a double charge is much louder, but all that powder will kick pretty hard and that was enough to convince me that I should stay away from double loads in the future.

Blank loads are very dirty due in part to the lower pressure. Warm water does a fine job of disolving the powder fouling. A little bit of soap can help, but isn't really needed. Once the water is running clean and you have dried the bore, use a good lubricant. It can be either traditional or modern as long as it has some rust preventative properties.

Now for a full load, I use the same paper roll as the blank cartridge. The roll is sized to just fit the ball. I use a 0.715" ball in my Loyalist Long Land Pattern with a 0.77" bore. I use some cotton or linnen thread to hold the ball in the tube and to put a bit of a waist. The tied off end helps me to be sure of a difference between the blank and the live cartridge. I also use different colored paper. Once I have the ball tied in the tube, I dip the ball end in a mix of 4 parts olive oil and one part bee's wax heated to liquid and mixed over a double boiler. Once I have the lubricated ball in the tube, I can add the powder. I use 85 grains of FFg Black powder. That is all you really need and I use a separate powder horn for the prime. I don't prime my live live rounds from the cartridge. I do make safety my first concern.

Let us know how it works for you.
 
Grenadier... have you noted a "shelf life" to your live round paper cartridges? I roll mine from recycled news print, generally 2 wraps thick. I lube with plain ol' melted Crisco and have noted a shelf life of around 3 months. After that the Crisco might have wicked it's way through the paper and contaminated the powder charge. Now I lube only as many as I might fire on any given weekend.
 
I have to agree with Grenadiers post with regards to ball and paper cartridge.


If your firing in a line shooting multiple volleys "like at a reinactment" its good to hear the arm go off so you dont double or triple load if you are too excited to notice flashes in the pan.
stiffer blank loads give you a bigger bang but can also act as confirmation of ignition.

My opinion.
 
I have fired blanks from my 77 cal. long land for a few years reenacting. Our group's standard round is 110 grains. Supposedly 100 go in the barrel and 10 are for the prime. If the load too light (less than 90 gr.) you don't seem to get the kick that lets you know your musket went off in a volley, which could lead to accidental doubling, so I wouldn't go that low. National Park Service rules limit you to 120 gr. in their parks.
I haven't fired enough ball to give an informed opinion on live fire loads.
 
Not being a reenactor I do not fire blanks at all.I have a Pedersoli Brown Bess and I fire a minimum load of 80 grains 2f to a maximum load of 1oo grains 2f. I prime with same.loading loose ,I fire .715 PRB,cartridge .735.Best regards,J.A.
 
100 grains works for a blank load. 90 grains of 2F will push a round ball quite well. Use a thin enough patch that you can thumb start the ball and push it down without a short starter.

Many Klatch
 
As mentioned, in any re-enactment you probably won't be allowed to use any wadding so be sure you do see the powder ignition cloud from your piece. As for parades, my favorite was 80 grains of FFg and pink Easterbasket grass!! Makes an interesting mess for the street sweepers!! :rotf:
 
Thanks very much for member input... You guys covered exactly what I was looking for !
Kration
 
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