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Best pattern for a throwing knife

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I don't know if there is a best pattern, any knife can be thrown. You don't want to throw a fine knife- I did that as a kid and the point bit into the tree okay but the tip then snapped off- I had to re-grind the point area. If I recall it was a Moro knife from Sweden and at the time I considered it a pretty good knife and was pretty bummed out it broke. You can also crack or break a wood handle.
So....most throwing knives are pretty soft tempered and have leather handles. Dixie Gun Works sell a few and they all work. I'd get a fairly large one.
Kids running around in the woods throwing knives... I was playing mumbly peg and stuck a knife in my knee one time- yeah it bled and hurt AND I learned a lesson. Now a days it's all mothers taking kids to a penned in area at McHamburg to "play" under close supervision.
Man, we sure had a lot more fun when I was a kid.
 
Since you posted here, I assume you're making one? For me, since I hold the handle when throwing, I like a straight smooth handle. I like a leather handle because it won't break. I don't consider blade shape or "balance", because all it has to do is complete one full turn and shape doesn't seem to matter. I use an old Bowie style that I had, that I changed the handle on. I use it around camp also. I can't see having a special "throwing knife". I also use my belt knife to cut at the muzzle as opposed to carrying an addition "patch knife", but again, that's just a personal choice.
 
I am not an accomplished knife thrower but the best knife design that I have found has hard leather scales for the handle and balances at the hilt. The blade shape has a point that is centered on the blade with no clip point. The edges are not sharp but I keep a good point on it. When I hit what I am throwing at, it will stick pretty well. It is a pretty big knife, larger than a regular belt knife. It gives it enough weight to stick in the target.
 
Of all the knives I have forged, the best thrower was the RR spike leaf blade with the hole in the shank.

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I've tried to duplicate it's balance without success.
 
crockett said:
And, I also hold the handle rather than the tip of the blade while throwing.
Most accurate throwers do. :wink:

And since most competitions require a full rotation, holding the blade requires one and a half rotations, which puts you farther away and it's unnecessary.

Throwing by the blade is good for a half-turn distance and the movies. IMO
 
Shape is less important than weight and balance. The knives I have thrown in competition are heavy, around a pound each.

I make them for folks out of auto leaf spring, with a "spear" point and they sort of look like butcher knives. I rivet a leather "scale" on each side of the tang, which makes them look less like...well...a piece of spring.

These are easy to make and are a good project for anyone with a torch and angle grinder.
 
I've watched people balance a knife on the side of there index finger to check it's "balance". I find this to be irrelevant. I do think overall weight is important and that it shouldn't be too light.

Once you learn the distance required for your object to stick, it doesn't matter if it's a specially made "balanced throwing knife", a dinner fork or a sharpened piece of rebar - It will stick. :wink:
 
Well, if you can throw it like Sandy Kofax did a hard ball, it's doesn't have to stick to kill yah. It would knock your head off if it struck broadside! :rotf: Mike D.
 
A throw knife is just that knife for throwing, will not skin, cut or do anything well except throw.

There use to Beaver Bill be a guy name Beaver Bill, or Beaver Bill Knife Works in the Mid West that made Throwning Knives, and Hawks.

They did what they were advertised to go well.
 
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