Just my opinion , and there will be a ton of opinions coming on this question. I started out in the 1960's using the different boiled linseed concoctions on the market just as my father did. I used them with Japan drier to speed drying time , and w/o. They all are easy to apply , but have a drawback I can't accept , that being , they aren't waterproof enough for use in damp weather. The products I tried were True Oil , Genuine oil, Linspeed ,and perhaps some other I can't remember. It's been a long time ago. I handled a couple of John Bivin's Bicentenial rifles in the 1970's, liked his finishes and tried them , however , there was no instruction on how he applied them , and I couldn't duplicate his result. Some time later , a friend told me he was using spray equipment and a spray booth. That explains why I couldn't get any depth to the finish. His cans of product are still sold in catalogs , but unless sprayed on , the finish lacked the depth , John's displayed. I'm lazy , and impatient , and don't have the desire to do a hand rubbed furniture finish , so I do a look-a-like satin furniture finish with some depth . It's easy to repair , and requires some simple maintenance. I hope this info answers a question or two for you. Finishes are a matter of personal taste and as Bivins proved , the application procedure of ingredients makes all the difference. ............oldwood
