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Looking for thoughts, patterns, etc. on making blanket gun sleeves
blanket gun sleeve
- Thread starter boombyspark
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I was looking for a leather, probably just suede sleeve for my rather long caplock. I saw everything from modern nylon to "socks" to leather sleeves I liked for $140 to $250.
When I was a kid I did some leatherwork. Sewing up a soft leather sleeve shouldn't be too difficult. I've kind of settled on that idea, but I haven't bought the tools yet. A pattern would be useful. I don't have one, but several of the leather working sites had them for scabbards and such. If you don't find exactly what you're looking for, you might look at those sites for a pattern you can adapt for use with a blanket.
When I was a kid I did some leatherwork. Sewing up a soft leather sleeve shouldn't be too difficult. I've kind of settled on that idea, but I haven't bought the tools yet. A pattern would be useful. I don't have one, but several of the leather working sites had them for scabbards and such. If you don't find exactly what you're looking for, you might look at those sites for a pattern you can adapt for use with a blanket.
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When hunting in wet or snowy weather, I use a case made from blanketing. These typically run from the muzzle back to about halfway along the comb line. I'll have some fringe or a piece of rope hanging from the end. When I need to clear the gun, I point it down so the case slides off. If it doesn't slide, I step on the fringe and pull the rifle out.
The hardest part of making one of these is the pattern. See, before you make the pattern, you have to find one of those large brown paper bags the grocery stores used to use. Collectors get a fortune for them these days. . . .
Cut down one side of the bag. Cut out the bottom. Now you have a big long piece of paper; if it is shorter than your gun, you may need to repeat the process and tape them together end-to-end. Fold the paper lengthwise, put your gun on top with the sights along the fold. Trace your gun. Carefully set your gun to the side.
Next step is to roughly sketch an outline of the tracing of the gun, going from the toe line to the highest point on the triggerguard, then forward to the muzzle (this is LINE 1). Then sketch a line about 1 3/4" outside this line (on the side away from the fold) that roughly parallels LINE 1. Our new line is LINE 2. With the paper still folded, cut on LINE 2 through both layers of paper.
Congrats, you just drafted a pattern for your gun case. About 1/4" in from the edge of the cut line, staple the pattern together (or tape it with masking tape/Scotch tape/whatever--don't use glue though). Carefully slide your gun into the case. Look for any place where it is too tight, or where you think it is too loose. If it is too tight, remove the staples/cut the tape (see why I wrote to not use glue) and tape on some additional paper. Usually expanding the pattern about 1/2" on each side is plenty. If it was too loose, wait until after you've roughly sewn the case together, then tailor the fabric or hide.
Most first-timers will do a mock-up made from an old sheet or similar before cutting expensive materials. If you've got a sewing machine and know how to use it, you could cut it out and sew it together in less time than it is taking me to write this; if you sew by hand just do a running stitch (this is a mock-up, after all). Check fit. You can do any tailoring at this point but I'd suggest waiting til you are working with the actual material, unless you have experience sewing blanketing or hide.
If all is well, un-stitch your mock-up and use it for a pattern, or use your paper pattern if you didn't do a mockup. If you are using heavy blanketing (Whitney or similar), maybe add about 1/2" to each side of the pattern as a seam allowance. Cut it out, sew it up with a blanket stitch (I usually space the stitches on these about every 1/4"), put your gun in the case.
Honest, this is simple stuff. I can make a snow case like this in an hour (or two, at most--depends if I can find my sewing kit). We'll leave buckskin cases (especially beaded, with overlays, etc) as a topic for another day.
The hardest part of making one of these is the pattern. See, before you make the pattern, you have to find one of those large brown paper bags the grocery stores used to use. Collectors get a fortune for them these days. . . .
Cut down one side of the bag. Cut out the bottom. Now you have a big long piece of paper; if it is shorter than your gun, you may need to repeat the process and tape them together end-to-end. Fold the paper lengthwise, put your gun on top with the sights along the fold. Trace your gun. Carefully set your gun to the side.
Next step is to roughly sketch an outline of the tracing of the gun, going from the toe line to the highest point on the triggerguard, then forward to the muzzle (this is LINE 1). Then sketch a line about 1 3/4" outside this line (on the side away from the fold) that roughly parallels LINE 1. Our new line is LINE 2. With the paper still folded, cut on LINE 2 through both layers of paper.
Congrats, you just drafted a pattern for your gun case. About 1/4" in from the edge of the cut line, staple the pattern together (or tape it with masking tape/Scotch tape/whatever--don't use glue though). Carefully slide your gun into the case. Look for any place where it is too tight, or where you think it is too loose. If it is too tight, remove the staples/cut the tape (see why I wrote to not use glue) and tape on some additional paper. Usually expanding the pattern about 1/2" on each side is plenty. If it was too loose, wait until after you've roughly sewn the case together, then tailor the fabric or hide.
Most first-timers will do a mock-up made from an old sheet or similar before cutting expensive materials. If you've got a sewing machine and know how to use it, you could cut it out and sew it together in less time than it is taking me to write this; if you sew by hand just do a running stitch (this is a mock-up, after all). Check fit. You can do any tailoring at this point but I'd suggest waiting til you are working with the actual material, unless you have experience sewing blanketing or hide.
If all is well, un-stitch your mock-up and use it for a pattern, or use your paper pattern if you didn't do a mockup. If you are using heavy blanketing (Whitney or similar), maybe add about 1/2" to each side of the pattern as a seam allowance. Cut it out, sew it up with a blanket stitch (I usually space the stitches on these about every 1/4"), put your gun in the case.
Honest, this is simple stuff. I can make a snow case like this in an hour (or two, at most--depends if I can find my sewing kit). We'll leave buckskin cases (especially beaded, with overlays, etc) as a topic for another day.
Great explanation, Longwalker. Easy to add fringe, too, but sewing the case inside out with your fringed material as a sort of welt layer, with the fringe facing in. It will hang in the right direction when the finished case it turned right-side out. I will have to give this a try. I am thinking that leather fringe sandwiched between the main edges of blanket would not only make a pleasing contrast, but strengthen your sewn seam.
No fringe on a flintlock case … fringe is ‘too late’ for them, lol! 
Happy New Year, Dale!
Ya mean ta say there isn't a flinter hiding somewhere in Miller's or Rindisbacher's compositions?
Ya mean ta say there isn't a flinter hiding somewhere in Miller's or Rindisbacher's compositions?
A soft case like the blanket or leather in same shape is to be considered only for short term use or for walking around looking neat at rendezvous. Like a few hours. They trap moisture and a rifle left overnight can look like road kill by morning. Hate to say it, but the modern synthetic fleece and silicone treated ones are the best for long(er) term storage.
This image by Rindisbacher dates to 1826. I wonder if the guy in the lead has treated his case with some sort of oil or fat to protect his firearm.
https://www.cartermuseum.org/collec...g-his-family-winter-near-lake-winnipeg-200066
https://www.cartermuseum.org/collec...g-his-family-winter-near-lake-winnipeg-200066
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Of the 100 or so original buckskin cases I've examined, none have shown signs of having been treated with oil etc.
Making a blanket case is easy once you get over the hurdle of cutting up an expensive blanket. I used to make a lot of capotes, so I had plenty of scrap around to use. The originals were probably copies of the list cloth cases that came with every trade gun. "List cloth" was typically lighter in weight that blanketing, but period illustrations and a few surviving examples show blanketing was used.
Buckskin cases are different, and I tend to do a little more planning when making one. I've been contemplating one for my GRRW Leman, if I go that route I'll get pics etc as I work. Most of the buckskin cases I do these days, I base the construction on several early (pre-1850) originals I saw in Europe.
Archer 756
40 Cal.
Watch leather cases, if weapon is left in case with any moister the bluing or browning can be damaged
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Thank you everyone.Good help. I do plan on using the case only for transport.
Why are they different?
When you write buckskin, I assume you are talking about a light, soft, flexible leather, not suede, but in some respects acts like suede, as opposed to a hard scabbard made with stiff, heavy leather and a suede liner. I am probably not using the right terms. I haven't worked with leather since I was a kid.
I had some tanned skins from some Axis deer I harvested a long time ago, but I don't even know where they are now. They were light and flexible.
I am interested in making a soft leather sleeve, something akin to one in the pic @BillinOregon posted.
With respect to comments by @Archer 756 and @Rifleman1776, I can't speak to the intention of the OP, but I want a leather case for transporting the rifle to the range. I would not keep it in the sleeve. In Texas, I have a M1803 Harper's Ferry replica that I keep in a Remington Gunsock, which is treated to prevent damage to the finish.
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Buckskin, in US usage, is typically the tanned skin of animals like deer/elk/antelope. It is tanned soft using various methods, rather than somewhat stiff like vegetable-tanned tooling leather. In texture it is much like a thicker version of oil-tanned chamois as used to absorb water while washing and drying a car.
I typically work with what is called "brain tan", which is actually an oil-dressed leather prepared using animal brains; it is very similar to what in the States is known as "German tan" (a type of oil tan done using fish oil, from what I hear). Brain tan isn't cheap to purchase, and preparing it yourself takes a fair amount of work. When working with buckskin, you have to make some allowances for the stretchiness of the material, as well as the tendency to (temporarily) shrink if dried too fast. As a result, the pattern is made somewhat differently, with different allowances.
Also, I tend to invest more effort in projects made with more-expensive materials such as this.
A yard of wool will be 60” wide. Wash the wool first it will shrink a mite.
Lay it on floor. Place gun on it. Pin along gun about four inches away. Cut along pin line leaving pins. Then back stitch just inside the line. Turn it inside out you have a sleeve
It will turn light rain and snow
As per @Rifleman1776 it can trap moisture inside, so check it if kept in and keep a LIGHT swab of oil on it. Good for treking or camp.
Lay it on floor. Place gun on it. Pin along gun about four inches away. Cut along pin line leaving pins. Then back stitch just inside the line. Turn it inside out you have a sleeve
It will turn light rain and snow
As per @Rifleman1776 it can trap moisture inside, so check it if kept in and keep a LIGHT swab of oil on it. Good for treking or camp.
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Long term storage in chrome-tanned leather, (soft buckskin commonly on the market), can damage a guns finish. I stick with wool trade cloth.
...but, but...the cool factor!
If @LongWalker is correct and I can buy genuine brain-tanned deerskin or elk skin, I just need lots of money, right?
I really need to find my skins. They must be in the hangar somewhere.
Real braintan isn’t that hard to make- I’ve been doing it for years. It does take some space and/or understanding neighbors, though. There are a handful of people who sell it if you want to go that route- probably some on this forum.
Jay
Jay
If I were making one of buckskin, I'd probably use some of the German tan from Crazy Crow.
Made this one from pieces of leather a movie studio was tossing out.
I find making it 'pieces' makes it easier and fit better then just one long shot.
Leather (IMO) is easier then blanket as far as the seams go; use the Right stitch and gage of thread on blanket so it wont tear out, and just like leather - a welt is absolutely Necessary!
And yes, my fringe was sewn on the inside - unlike a blanket, it was a PIA turning right side out when done.
**No Rifle/Pistol case; historic or unmentionable is for "long term storage".
That is what open racks, cabinets, wall hangers, and safes are for.
Cases, holsters, and scabbards are just for 'protection' while on the move.
I find making it 'pieces' makes it easier and fit better then just one long shot.
Leather (IMO) is easier then blanket as far as the seams go; use the Right stitch and gage of thread on blanket so it wont tear out, and just like leather - a welt is absolutely Necessary!
And yes, my fringe was sewn on the inside - unlike a blanket, it was a PIA turning right side out when done.
**No Rifle/Pistol case; historic or unmentionable is for "long term storage".
That is what open racks, cabinets, wall hangers, and safes are for.
Cases, holsters, and scabbards are just for 'protection' while on the move.
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