Bone handle varnish

[crockett]

I'm finishing up a knife with a bone handle which I've checkered and looks pretty good. Is there any type of varnish or protective finish that can be applied to bone which is better than standard varnish?

 

[lonehunter]

I sand to a steel wool finish and buff on a wheel, gives a very nice gloss finish. Stick with the lighter colored compounds to avoid staining.

 

[Rickey Brown]

excellent advice. I've found that if just buffed then the oils from your hand will give it that aged ivory look

 

[MSW]

thanks... i'll have to remember that ... (often my addled brain is cluttered with useless data like my shoe size and my kids' birthdays, so remembering important stuff can be difficult)...

 

[Ken Cormier]

I don't know a lot about bone handled knifes but this needs a photograph. :2

 

[LaBonte]

I'm finishing up a knife with a bone handle which I've checkered and looks pretty good. Is there any type of varnish or protective finish that can be applied to bone which is better than standard varnish?

Actually most of the makers I know who use bone, including myself, don't use varnish of any type. Buff and apply a good paste wax or plain old beeswax and or oil (mineral oil, etc.) is the usual procedure, although many of today's modern makers have it stabilized.
On mine I put a couple of very thin coats of Tried and True's real boiled linseed oil and let dry followed up with a mix of beeswax and whatever tallow I have on hand. I generally apply several THIN coats of the latter letting dry in between. If there's sun shine I dry between coats of both the linseed oil and wax/tallow by hanging in the sun, otherwise I hang in front of a fan in a warm, dry spot until dry.
Coloring/ageing can be done with a soak in tea, coffee, or leather dye, let thoroughly dry and apply the oil/wax.

 

[Rifleman1776]

If that is what you really want to do. A rattle can poly will do the job.
But, most would prefer the handle to achieve a natural patina from use. I do rub down my bone and antler handled knives with Neatsfoot oil or mineral oil. Choice depends on my moot at the moment. I have two knives I made about 65 years ago that get that treatment. Still looking as good a I do these days. :wink: Actually, they look fine. I'm getting kinda shop worn.

 

[crockett]

A few years back I did a bone handled knife using a section of leg bone from a black bear I shot. I put tung oil on it however it is so humid in Florida that it never dried so I just rubbed it off and did nothing else. That black bear bone handled knife was for "show" as a lot of my knives end up- too pretty to use. IAE this one is a lockback folder from Smith's Key (1816) with scored bone scales on integral liner/bolsters and I figure I can carry it around so I'll actually use this one. I thought some sort of protective coating might be in order because I know bone can be dyed so it can pick up color. I think the wax might be the best option. Polished bone is pretty smooth but I think there is still a grain to it so the wax ought to fill in any invisible pores, etc. I'll have to get up to date on how to down load and post photos. Sort of challenged in that department.
My next folder is going to have applied shoulder bolsters- iron on iron liners, no heel bolster, and horn scales that I'll boil and press flat. I have a small supply of green Florida cow horns- they are a light green, and that ought to look pretty good. Historically I think horn was dyed in spots or the like for folder scales but I'm not sure on the patterns, etc. Smith's Key does not accurately show this- sort of dyed chevrons.

 

[bpd303]

On my bone or antler handled knives it depends on if I want them to age darken or remain as built.
If I want them to age I just apply wax. If I want them to look like I just finished them I spray them with automotive clear coat (I know not H/C)but it works for me, especially if the bone is already aged.

 

[tlallijr]

A taxidermist friend of mine uses a non yellowing urethane for finishing floors on his European mounts and they look beautiful. he didn't mention any particular brand just that it must be non yellowing. Good luck with your finish.

 

[MSW]

auto clear coat ... having a "duh" moment, intermixed with a lightbulb moment ...

how come I never think of this really clever stuff? NO FAIR!!

 

[M. De Land]

I just finished a couple of flint knives and used water thinned carpenters glue to seal up the porous interior and when that was fully dry I used spray on stock urethane to seal against moisture.
I use the satin finish type and it leaves the antler looking natural. I like it a lot.
Wish I could show them but they keep getting pulled as I guess they are not considered traditional enough which is a head scratch-er for me. :grin:
Lots of flint and bone bladed knives were still used in the muzzle loading era. Mike