Boning finish

[wayne1967]

When should this take place? Before the clear coat or after. I am working with curly maple, aqua fortis and True oil finish.

 

[Jason Lewis]

by boning do you mean burnishing?

 

[user 922]

I thought it said "boring finish".

 

[wayne1967]

Yes burnishing.

 

[wayne1967]

I was hopeing Zonie would chime in.

 

[George91946]

I did it on a walnut stocked trade gun. Burnished it with the rounded side a large spoon that I stole from the Kitchen. I applied the burnish after doing a gas flame dewhiskering, and prior to sealing with oil. It came out fine. I wanted an effect that was not shiny and "factory" new. It worked. The wood is smooth, and even and lacks gloss. Maple may be more tedious though I haven't tried to burnish that.

Lisle George

 

[rich pierce]

A hard burnishing will limit finish penetration. I'd do it after the sealing coat.

 

[matt denison]

Boning or burnishing have their places but I don't do it on gun stocks because it will, as mentioned, limit how much stain or finish can penetrate the wood.

Since you are going to use Tru-Oil I would sugggest that you whisker the stock once or twice, use the Aqua Fortis, whisket again lightly, heat and blush etc. then let the Tru-Oil do its job. By applying several coats of T.O. and dulling the finish between coats you will get a fine smooth finish without burnishing. I use a combo of 0000 steel wool and 220 sand paper between coats, at least 4, up to as many as needed to fill the pores and get a nice finish. I always dull the last coat and use wax to finish up and give it a satin sheen.

 

[Billnpatti]

I do not use this technique to give the desired satin to flat finish. I sand to 220 grit paper then whisker the stock. I then apply the desired stain followed by a light buffing with 0000 steel wool and whiskering again. Then I apply Tru-Oil (usually at least 6 to 10 coats). Let each coat dry for 24 hours followed by a buffing with 0000 steel wool before each coat. Allow the last coat dry inside your house or other controlled atmosphere space. Let it cure for about a month to be sure the finish is completely hardened. Your finish will be a shiny high luster that you will want to soften. This softening is done by rubbing it with extremely fine sandpaper. Go to your local auto parts store and look in the paint section for "wet or dry" sandpaper in the finest grade that they stock. It is usually finer than 1,000 grit. Make up some soapy water and wet your stock with the soapy water and dip the sandpaper in the soapy water before sanding out your finish. The soapy water acts as a lubricant to keep the sandpaper from being too aggressive. Keep the stock and paper wet and go lightly until you have knocked down the shine to where you want it and it is evenly softened all over the stock. Keep it wet, go slowly and gently. Whan you have it where you want it, thoroughly wipe the surface with clean water until all sign of sanding residue has been removed. Again, allow your stock to dry inside for at least a day. Follow this by waxing your stock with some Birchwood Stock Wax, if you can find it, or use plain old Johnson's paste floor wax. Automobile wax is not a good choice as a stock wax as it is made for painted surfaces not wood surfaces. My personal preference for stock wax is Renaissance Wax but it is pricy and can be hard to find. Many fine furniture stores stock it or you can find it at Dixie Gun Works or, possibly, Track of The Wolf. Done right, this will give you a beautiful smooooooth finish with a beautiful satin to flat finish.

 

[Zonie]

I was hopeing Zonie would chime in.

Zonie didn't chime in because Zonie doesn't "bone" or burnish his stocks before or after they are finished.

 

[wayne1967]

I was hopeing Zonie would chime in.

Zonie didn't chime in because Zonie doesn't "bone" or burnish his stocks before or after they are finished.

Ok, thanks. You've gave me some pointers in the past and thought I'd ask. I've always done it the same way Bill was talking about and will continue it on this build.