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Store for the summer, thats when your supposed to be shootin it.Well in the fall, spring and winter too.Seriously though i'v never stored one for long periods without shootin it but if i were to i'd use a good heavy oil like motor oil, no need to goop it on just a soaked patch up and down the bore should do.and if stored for a long time be shure to check it for rust from time to time.
 
I use Birchwood Casey Sheath or Barricade.
It produces a very thin coating on metal parts that protects them from humidity.
It works very well.

Most gun or sporting goods stores that carry gun stuff will have it.
 
I use T/C 1000+ on everything, and have been for years. Ill be pulling my flinter out of storage on monday.

It will be as nice and when I put it up in Sept.
 
A lot would depend on what part of the country you're from and where specifically you would be storing it. I would tend to go along with Zonie and use something like Sheath or Rem Oil.
 
The secret to storing guns properly, is to pull them out every 2 weeks to 30 days, and re-oil them. DON'T let them go months without checking them. :shake: :thumbsup:

The only good alternatives are: to use oiled paper and protective greases to coat and protect the guns during long term storage; and, if you have access to the New Vacuum machines and those long bags they have, you can put a well-oiled gun inside a plastic bag, then suck all the air out( and moisture) with that machine, and seal the bag around the gun.

If you put a couple of dessicant packs inside the bag with the gun, you will insure dry storage for as long as the plastic bag lasts.I would still have someone check the guns monthly to see that they are still sealed in plastic, or that nothing had damaged or destroyed whatever packing box, crate, or safe you store them in.

FWIW, if I am going to be storing a gun someplace other than where I live, and sleep each night, I like to remove a key part of the gun so if stolen, it can't be fired. On MLers, I remove the locks and store them separate from the stock and barrels.

On modern guns, I remove the bolts, or breechblocks, and store them separately.

Even if a thief might know what is the proper breechblock, or lock, for a particular gun, and discovers both locations of storage, it would be rather rare for a thief to know how to put them back in the gun correctly to get the gun to fire. ( They are not that well-educated, contrary to what you see in movies and on TV.)

Unless a gun will fire, its less than useless on the black market, BTW. Thieves steal guns because they generate the highest income that will buy them drugs. They still are getting only 5 cents on the dollar in value, and sometimes a lot less. Unless the gun works, they get nothing.
 
The most effective rust preventative I've found is Corrosion-X. You can get it at corrosionx.com or in most gun stores.

What convinced me was a water leak under my storage room that I didn't know about for several months. I had gotten sidetracked with work and hadn't had time to work on any of my gun projects, so they were just sitting in there unnoticed until it was too late. My chisels rusted up, my files were ruined, even an SKS was a rustball through it's fresh coat of CLP and it's military finish. Everything was rusted up but a Savage .22 that I had treated with CorrosionX. The stuff makes the best rimfire lube that I've ever seen so the rimfires are always lubed and wiped with it. The Savage was in mint condition, while the CLP (which I had used until then-never again!) treated guns were ruined.
 
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