'Bout done with cherry Tennessee - pics.

[mikemeteor]

I say "about" cuz I still a have couple more final oil coats to go - still waitin on resupply.

Anyway, this is build #2 (you can tell by the too-thick wrist ! :shake: )
Lotsa mistakes, but I do believe I learned more from this build then I did #1. Maybe cuz I understood a little more about what I was doing wrong :grin:.
as always, I'm open to all tips for improvement !

Cherry precarve from Pecatonica.
.45-cal 42" Colerain B weight.
Late Ketland lock.
Davis double triggers.
steel (cold-blued and bleached) furniture from TOW except I made the nosecap.
1/4" ampco TH liner that ya can't see.

Gotta admit I kinda like cherry - I'd say that curly maple is overrated, but I know that'd draw all kinds of incoming fire, so I won't say it. :wink:
/meteorman

 

[hawkthrower]

Very nicely done MM. I like the lines of it and I'm not sure I dislike the wrist. For a second build I think its pretty durn good,and believe me I truly understand about learning as you go. I learn something everytime I start on a rifle. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[Birddog6]

That came out nice. Good color & it all looks pretty good. As you mentioned, the wrist is a lil thick & also I feel the rear of the lock panels are not right, thus making the wrist appear even more thick. :hmm:

But all things considered & from where ya started & this is #2, I think you did a good job. :thumbsup:

Keith Lisle

 

[agill]

That turned out real nice! I like the cherry! :thumbsup:

 

[smo]

I like it :thumbsup:

 

[rabjr]

:thumbsup:

 

[mr.flintlock]

That's a very nice rifle. You did an excellent job cutting in the lock and butplate.

 

[Jan Borinski]

Beautiful gun! :thumbsup: Which parts are bleached und which ones are cold-blued?

 

[mikemeteor]

thanks fellers. appreciate the kind words.

Yeah, Keith, seems me and lock panels get along together like the cat and the dog.
I saw pics of big wide ones, lil skinny ones, ones that followed the lock profile, ones that didn't, etc.
I guess what's "right" is something that looks like it belongs there, and I mighta coulda done better. next time. :thumbsup:

anyways, received a few questions about the stains I used, from fellow cherry enthusiasts.
Behlen Solar Lux, following a tip from Zonie more than a year ago.
First coat: straight hickory, thinned by half with denatured alcohol, then rubbed back.
2nd coat: half hickory - half cherry, rubbed back.
Last coat: straight cherry, rubbed back to where i wanted it.

onlne anywhere, but Grizzly sells it and I have a Grizzly showroom near me in central PA. about $15 a bottle, and they'll last me a lifetime.

 

[mikemeteor]

Greetings Moguai - how's it goin' in Sweden ?

all the metal got both blued and then bleached as part of the "aging" process.

search out Post#855547 and you'll see a more detailed explanation and pics. PM me if you can't find it.
Again, I learned and adapted it from everything you see on this forum. :thumbsup:

 

[Swampman]

The wrist looks typical of the area and period of the rifle to me.

 

[bob243]

Looks great, especially for being #2 :thumbsup:

Is that their TN Classic ? They inletted it for the B weight?

 

[Birddog6]

Yeah, Keith, seems me and lock panels get along together like the cat and the dog.
I saw pics of big wide ones, lil skinny ones, ones that followed the lock profile, ones that didn't, etc.
I guess what's "right" is something that looks like it belongs there, and I mighta coulda done better. next time. :thumbsup:

To me....... :hmm: To the rear of the lock panel you could have brought that out a lil more & a lil less pointed, just rear of that on top & below you could have taken some wood out & blended the wrist to the lock panel. This would let the lock panel flow into the wrist, tang area, and below & not be flat there & chopped off looking.

Now this is just my opinion.... :redface: others may & probably will see it differently. And I am not picking on it in a negative way, I am just saying it would have flowed a lil better from the wrist to the lock panel a little smoother there. IMHO. This would also make the top & bottom wood along the center of the lock panel appear thinner. The front of the lock panel looks good & the inletting look good. :thumbsup:

It is still a dang good looking rifle, you did a good job, & you should be proud of it !! :thumbsup:

You can set 45 Tenn or Southern rifles side by side & find 45 variations..... Some like one thing & others another. Mine are no different. You could pick mine to death too, some see things other don't, some see nothing wrong, other dislike them all together......

The main thing is it pleases YOU........

:thumbsup:

Keith Lisle

 

[mikemeteor]

Bob - it's what Pecatonica calls their Southern Mountain. I just told Dick Greensides what my barrel was -- he always says "Yep, no problem, we can do it !". Good man.

Thanks Keith. I appreciate the feedback and trust me there is no negativity taken ! :hatsoff:
I'm havin trouble drawing out, or stretching, that radius that goes from wrist up to the lock panel surface :cursing: - any tips on what tool to use for that, to keep it smooth and flowing, would be greatly appreciated. Altho I suspect its less about the tool and more about skill. :hatsoff:

 

[Jan Borinski]

Greetings Moguai - how's it goin' in Sweden ?

all the metal got both blued and then bleached as part of the "aging" process.

search out Post#855547 and you'll see a more detailed explanation and pics. PM me if you can't find it.
Again, I learned and adapted it from everything you see on this forum. :thumbsup:

Hello,
It`s goin well over here :wink: Summer arrived finally.. :grin:
Yep,thanks.I found the post.Just one more quick question.Did you apply the Perma-Blue and the bleach in the same time and let it settle together?Or did you do one thing at a time.
I really like this finish..I´m just restoring an older GPR and I´m bussy with the stock right now,but I´m allready wondering about the metal parts of course.. :grin:
Had first a bleach or vinegar-finish in mind,but the slightly darker/aged looks even better in my opinion.. :thumbsup:
greetz from the land of the midnightsun :wink:

 

[Birddog6]

Correct...... Application, not tools. I use rasps, round rasps, halfround rasps, I usually cut my lock panels out with carving tools. And I Always cut them larger than I need, then work them & the wrist & bottom down.

I do some, go back next day & look them over again, then do more, etc. Balance on each side is important. Look straight down over the tang & is each side the same thickness, lock panel same length for & aft, depth the same , tip it up & angle of each side the sane & rounded over the same, etc. Do same looking up from the bottom, etc.

I do the lock panel first, then the sideplate panel. Do it & get it right. Lay a piece of white paper over it. Take a piece of aluminum tubing & rub around the outline.(Alum will mark the paper like carbon paper) Cut it out with scissors. Now position it on the opposite side & mark you outline. Now the panels are the same & you can cut it just like the other.

If the Drawing of the lock panel don't look right.......... DO NOT CUT IT...... Get a book with the right look you want, copy it, enlarge it to what you want, cut it out & lay it over the area & draw it........ Then do above to get the opposite the same. Do this on 15-20 of them & you won't need to look at one, you KNOW what one looks like to be correct.

And again, YOU DID A GOOD JOB :thumbsup: Just a lil something that can make the next one a tad bit better... I try to improve something on every rifle I build........


Keith Lisle

:thumbsup:

 

[mikemeteor]

Just one more quick question.Did you apply the Perma-Blue and the bleach in the same time and let it settle together?Or did you do one thing at a time.

I. PermaBlue alone first, as per instructions on bottle. Let dry for 10-15 minutes.
II. Squirt with bleach. Rust will show immediately. Let rust for 10-20 minutes, or more if you want more pitting.
III. Steel wool off rust.
IV. Mist with bleach again if you need more "aging". Let set another 15-30 minutes.
V. If, after above, you still want more of that "grey-blue" look - put on some diluted Perma-Blue and rub back to where you want it.
V. Light steel wool off, oil, and heat 'till it smokes (no idea if this step helps or not :youcrazy: ).

Play with it a little, you'll see what ya get after each step. Nothing is irreversible except the deep pitting, so give it a go! (as the Brits say, who are just now beating us in the World Cup [strike]football[/strike] soccer game).

I also have no idea of the maintenance required for this finish, in terms of rust prevention - it's my first one. Maybe some of the pros can add some perspective to that.

 

[Capt. Fred]

Looks good MM. I agree with Keith. I like the look of a thinner and more stretched out lock panel too. I love the look of the steel on her! Amazing job for #2. :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

 

[flint64]

That is beautiful longrifle!!! :applause:

 

[David G]

I like that one! Glad you went with the cherry.I understand about the maple as I'm probably a little more partial to the fruit woods on southern guns.Lets not forget ash as well. I think the color you obtained on the cherry contrast well with the furniture. Very nice and keep em' coming. :thumbsup: